Alternator - which would you choose?

[KiNgMaRtY]

Great find G! Our OEM 90 is plenty for everyday needs but I will also be getting that Bosch 140 when mine dies./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Great for the boom boom if you have it in the trunk.

 

[G]

I'll do the 140amp & probably move it to the back to keep it away from the heat and make some space.

 

[FlyingEagle]

G, excellent post with those part numbers!

I spent the whole lunch break, also aided by my direct superior, trying to find the 140 amp option over on this side of the border, or within a reasonable reach.

90amp Bosch units are still on the radar through WorldPac, and they also have direct (or so the lady translated from her end ....) replacement for the 140A Bosch number

to a World Source One parts alternator. No luck finding it in the system though, really only seemed to direct to 90/75 amp units through the interface.

Did find listings and availability on the 93-94 Sonata al4008x

 

[FlyingEagle]

Bosch offers a 2 year warrany, unlimited hours and or miles, on the remans: Click for PDF of warranty card

WorldPAC according to my work source, also provides 2 years on their alternators, IE World Source One, which would match the Bosch warranty to some degree.

Seeing as how most alternators at my store price, are roughly $150+ CDN, this is a nice feature to have built in. Not worth buying a used alternator at a premium, unless you are being 100% period correct, and not installing anything new. You can always rebrush/machine the stator, and or install a new regulator from Mitusibishi too, but those retail for mega bucks ... and go figure, almost as much a new alternator.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Here's the expensive ones on Amazon, shipping to the 48 included; but that doesn't do me any good other than a drive over the border. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

140A High Output Bosch, NEW AL4006HO

 

[G]

I think that $305 might include the core charge.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Decided that with the price of an alternator and needing a starter (for insurance), I would go with a stock 90A output.

Purchased a Bosch 90 amp reman al4008x.

Came in through WorldPac and their NJ warehouse. Core is charged on top of that but the alternator at my shop price, came out $150 CDN.

With the money saved, from not making the high amperage rewind decision, I purchased a Bosch reman starter, also to arrive from NJ in a week or so.

Starter was this part # MD172860, but crossed into WorldPAC's internal # system. 12V 1.2kW 8T CW 8lbs. $120 CDN my cost.

Denso was available and looked great with that plated/dipped ends, but that was $200 CDN.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Pics of the alternator.






The pulley size you see on the HO alternator that G posted is compared to what is on the unit now, there is a sizeable difference in diameter.

The HO model shows a very small pulley size, the al4008x uses a pulley that covers most of the screw heads, and the alternator I am turning in as a core, had an even larger pulley size. I'll take a smaller pulley if it means the field is stabilized somewhat better at lower turningn speeds ... maybe I'm stretching it a bit here, but the higher you spin it, the sooner the higher output can be achieved.

 

[Coltsfan]

Still rocking the GM alternators in my Colt, and my Galant. They perform flawlessly.

 

[FlyingEagle]

I completely agree, and would have opted for that route.

I chose the stock style strictly for these two reasons; size and warranty (free tow/2 yrs parts) through work/nationwide hotline.

My situation with the 50mm core radiator and being able to access the alternator belt tension bolt, created issues with the process.

Custom shroud or a concoction using the stock C53a rad fan shrouding/Ebay fan, is now my biggest issue - not much room in front of the alternator/turbo in a Colt engine bay.

Going from greatest to least distance - stock turbo to rad, the list goes like this: TEL -> GVR4 -> CSM.

I am even thinking that the base of the radiator may contact my front/rear engine support bar, as my rad mounts couldn't get any lower than they are; at first glance.

I noticed the Saturn alternators appear to have a larger external shape, but I judged a book by it's cover, as I have never measured, and thought it was something I read, not just the grinding to fit due to attachment points pulling it in too close to the mounts.

Getting parts here on my end isn't so bad, but returns can add to frustration at work, so I sometimes take the "easy" route. I am fortunate to have that option and don't push it.

Also, should there have been any issue with a part that was modified to fit .... I just hope they wouldn't check what is inside the box, and hope patina on the modded parts had set in, and it looks nearly "stock".

 

[tektic]

3700miles on my remanufactured alternator. Stoped charging today after making some noise. Just got stranded. I'm going to look into a gm alternator. I have replaced at least 6 alternator on 4g63 cars. I had enough.

 

[SleepinGVR4]

I had a bosch alternator. It was the biggest piece of sh*t I've ever owned. I had the stator go twice and then the bearings went.

The place I have rebuild my OEM alternators told me they won't touch bosch alternators and that they are complete junk.

I haven't had an issue with my current rebuild by them. They can also get brand new Mitsu alternators, that's my next route if this one ever fails.

 

[thomcasey]

I guess it depends on what they are for and if they are refurbs or not. My 93 Merc 300E can ONLY run a Bosch alternator. I tried several different brands, all failed within days. The Bosch I took off was the original form the factory, made it 180k miles

 

[FlyingEagle]

I did notice that the rectifier bridge was sand blasted (old red paint still poking around) and the diode cap that was visible through the corresponding hole in the case, was also sand blasted.

So maybe it failed only on account of the brushes being worn out? I can only guess .....

You guys couldn't have chime in earlier eh? Reference to Bosch stuff having issues .....

Well, what is done is done and if I get through the radiator install before an alternator goes bad again, then I can look at clearance for a Saturn unit (new).

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Hey Tim,

So how did this end up working out? Was there a noticeable difference with the higher output unit?

 

[FlyingEagle]

Winter and a donor car happened.
I have a 1992 Plymouth Colt being completely stripped, sitting in my garage.
I have to run the on-wall heater and the standalone model for 30 minutes before stepping into the garage in last weeks temperatures to keep my hands off frosty metal bits.

There will be no doubt in my mind that the boost in base amperage (capability at the same rpm between lower and higher amp units), will be good in every way.

Bear in mind that the design is the same as a lower amp unit, so RPM's always equal better output.

ECMLink keeping the idle steady (or a non-hunting stock setup) and a proper flywheel combination for intended purposes, will keep the whole scenario in check with less effort required to keep everything in balance.

Time will tell, and sadly I would need more time to tune the ECU following the installation of the new alternator. I got the car running just to park it outside during red car tear down.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

FML. I noticed my gauges slightly pulsing, so figured I should check out what my battery voltage was doing...



Looks like the rectifier is taking a sh*t? I don't know what it is, but these alternators aren't lasting. This is the 3rd alternator I've put on the car. Granted, the last unit was an Autozone reman, because that's all I could get locally at the time...

I've ran all new wiring (+ and -), and and added an 8 gauge power wire directly from the charging post to the + terminal. I've also got heat shielding in place, so I really don't think its getting cooked?

Should I just pick up a Bosch unit? Looks like I can get a remand AL4008X unit for ~$200 bucks. Thoughts?

 

[FlyingEagle]

The theory is that anything with genuine Mitsubishi guts, will outlast all the aftermarket stuff.

So, I can't actually comment on what is installed in the Bosch reman, as it is anyones guess as to what recitifier/bridge/guts are inside it right now.

I haven't even put the alternator in the car yet.

That is something I should do this afternoon! New belts to go with that ...

I have upgraded wiring just like you do GSTwithPSI, so no strain on the system there.

There is one alternator in my basement that may have Mitsu internals still in it, two alternators as cores have worn out brushes I believe.

When I have a torch setup here capable of taking out the solder on the diode array, I will see if a simple bush swap will bring one of them back to life as a backup. Would be great to find Mitsu stamps on the inside ... but not holding my breathe for one of the two units, as it is already a reman unit.

I will be running the Bosch unit you posted.

P.S. Any distributor that carries products sold through WorldPac, will carry a two year NorthAmerican warranty, and roadside tow, so food for thought. Hope none of us need it.
Be sure to swap the alternator bolt for easy removal. This is also a note for anyone that has not had their alternator out and could save them valuable time.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Okay, car is up and running. Dealing with tuning issues (I am not seasoned at this sort of stuff), but the volt gauge tells me that things are where they are supposed to be. With lots of loads the output drops in voltage .. but I need to first ascertain at what RPM the engine is at and with proper AFR (not relevant like RPM for proper minimum operation).
Got a laptop situation sorted and I can now look at long term prognosis of the alternator and other components. So far, things come down to proper temp with fans in operation, next up is actually putting stress on the system to soak it and see what happens. Driveway queen for the win, at the moment. E-test is next. At least they have now waived the fee because it was a tax on a tax.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Oh, I should add that I have wrap on my 02 housing (2G style cast), and the downpipe right past the oil pan, with custom muffler/resonator body heat shielding fashioned into exhaust manifold and 02 housing shields. New gasket from Vibrant Performance products was installed this AM and that solved the leak I had at the 02 to downpipe mating area with my solid stainless gasket. Indestructible yes, maleable no. 'Nuff said.
Now there are no stray exhaust gases nor excessive heat that can migrate its way towards the alternator. Time will tell.


Looking at that picture, makes me want to add another shield from the lowest heat shield bolt near the alternator, down to the bolt that keeps the coolant tube held to the block. That tab doesn't preform much function anymore, so maybe I can make another duct of sorts, so air blowing by the bottom will draw something out of the funnel as it were.