93 Eagle Summit Wagon AWD project

[GreenGSX]

Leon,

I stiffened my mustache brace with some angle iron. I had Curtis's double brace on the car for our first One Lap but sent it back so he could use it on his car.



I couldn't find you on Facebook to tag you in these photo's but here are two from the shootout.

 

[omertaitalia]

sorry just saw your response, ya leon still working on it, it will be done by january, i will post on 4g61 as soon as progress is made, its honestly so close to being finished i just need to get it out of my friends shop. that mustache looks great.

 

[Leon_R]

Thanks for the photos, Tim! And also thank you for giving a vertual dope slap over the tire presssure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Leon_R]

A lot has changed since I originally upgraded my Summit’s suspension. First of all, stock EVO8/9 suspension has a punishing ride! So much so, that my kids named the Summit “the bumpy car”. This wouldn’t be so bad if it gave Summit amazing handling, but it didn’t.

In search of more front camber, I installed some EVO8/9 TEIN coilovers with camber plates! I had to do the same modification done on stock EVO8 strut conversion: welded on washers on the bottom). That improved front end ride quality and handling, plus it gave me an adjustable ride height (not to mention shedding off around 2-3 lbs per side!) However, rear end was still unbearably bumpy!

After some research, I determined that 2G DSM rear Koni shocks should work on the Summit, so I took $230 gamble… and it paid off!

Top and bottom: EVO8 modded for 1G DSM/Summit (assembled and bare) Middle: 2G Eclipse Koni (spring purch omitted)

The fact that you can just leave out the bottom spring purch on 2G Konis make this install even easier! Otherwise, you have to cut off DSM or EVO lower spring purch.

The fit was perfect! But this shock is shorter, so it will not work if you have stock height spring.

In the rear, I am using stiffer (7 passenger van) springs (450lbs/in vs. sock 400lbs/in), which have 1.5 coils removed. The reduced spring length, should bring the spring rate to around 600-650lbs/in. So help stiffen up the springs even more, I installed PRC rubber spacer inside the spring. I am not sure if it is helping much (or at all), because it is loose when van just sits there, so it needs around 1” of spring compression to truly engage the rubber spacer. I suspect that those only help only at extremes of suspension travel.

 

[Prostrho]

I'm following your post very closely.

I'm currently building my own 4g64T Expo 5spd AWD.

I'm glad that you pioneered in all this work and saves a lot for work for me!! Its awesome that the Koni yellows from 2G fit on the back.

I bought some Espelir springs from Japan for the N23W (RVR) that i plan to fit in the back.

I see that you have done your abundance of research for this swap. So i plan to learn lots from you and hope you don't mind me asking lots of questions!

 

[Leon_R]

Glad I could help! I would love to see more of these vans modified to the extreme! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

I just picked up my Expo today. Its going to be our family vehicle for now because the two dogs don't fit well in the back of either Eclipses and they take up the entire back seat of the VR-4(I don't like them in there anyways), so the Expo will fit us perfectly. All of my family lives on the other side of the state, so it should work well for going over the mountains in the winter.

Anyways, its a 1994(manufactured in '93) AWD Automatic 5 door. I've basically picked it up, swung by Les Schwab to get a free inspection of the steering, brakes, suspension, tires, etc.., then tried to have the CEL read at Orielly's, and finally went home. I'm assuming the galant wheels are the same bolt pattern, so I'm going to swap some better wheels and tires on it tomorrow and start cleaning it up.

From what I've researched, it has a 2.4l SOHC 4G64 7-bolt engine. It has a check engine light on and I don't know what its for because the scanner at Oriellys wouldn't work on it, although the car does seem to be running well. I thought it was kind of strange that it being a 1994 its an OBDII car. I'm thinking I can get Evoscan to read the code, but I need to buy a cable first.

I only plan to do maintenance and get it running solid for now, but my eventual goal will be to swap a 4g63 head onto the 4g64 block and boost it. If that is too difficult, then I'll just swap a 4g63t long block into it. Ofcourse the work wouldn't be done anytime soon, but I still like to figure out what I'm going to do, so I have a few questions if anyone has some info.

1. What ECU did you use and what engine combination did you use(4g64 or 4g63)?
2. If you used another ECU rather than the stock one, what did you do about the wiring harness?
3. Is your car OBDI or OBDII?

I'm thinking since the car is OBDII now, I should stick with an OBDII ECU, harness, and 7 bolt engine. So perhaps a 95 DSM ECU, make the stock harness match the 95 ECU, and use a 7 bolt 4g63 head. I don't know about the CAS or Crank position sensor though.

 

[Leon_R]

My ’93 had OBD1, my parted out ’95 had OBD2, I always wondered about ’94 and now I know <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. I used the original ’93 harness (which had 2G style ECU plugs) and re-pinned it to work with 2G ECU. This wasn’t the easiest way to do it, but I was determined not to remove the dashboard. In the end, did didn’t put a single new wire through the firewall!

So my car was OBD1, but it is now OBD2. You have an extra reason to keep it running on 2G ECU, since it is already OBD2.

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

I was reading through omertaitalia's thread and I saw you said if he used a 2g harness he has to use one from a '95. Why is that? I just bought one from a 2gb.





This thing was filthy inside.



Pulled it apart and cleaned the crap out of everything.

 

[Leon_R]

Do you have a link? I would want to see the context in which I said that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif. But my guess is I was suggeting he uses 2G harness, since '95 already has OBD2. I do not see how 95 vs 96-99 would be much different. Just make sure to keep matching MPI relays for your harness, as they changed over the years.

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

The only thing I was thinking would be different between the 2ga and 2gb harnesses are the crank position sensor or cam angle sensor, which I will just use a 1g CAS anyways so I figured it was irrelevant which harness I get. I'm eager to get the 2g harness so I can start looking into what the swap will require. I'm pretty positive I'll be alright on the engine side, but whatever interconnections there are between the body harness and the engine harness is where I'm a little in the dark right now.

Also, I hooked up the multimeter to the diagnostic port and it looks like I'm getting code 46. Its sort of hard to count the quick pulses, but I tried a couple times and keep getting 6 for the second digit in the code. Looking here it looks like Charging System Voltage Too High. So I guess I'll throw the voltmeter on the battery today and see what its charging voltage is.

This is what I read from here 10/28/11 11:33PM:

"The type of motor (6 bolt or 7 bolt), has no bearing on which harness/ECU you should use. Use whatever you have around. 1G harness/ECU is usually easier to find because you can choose anything from 91-94 and for 2G you will need a 95 model. Plus, 2G harness is slightly more complicated from the factory.

If there is one positive to using 2G ECU is that it has more potential inputs, so if you like to log a LOT of different extra things (like: fuel pressure, oil pressure and so on), it might be worth to go with the 2G ECU."

 

[Leon_R]

I was talking about 95 ECU (to run DSM LINK), the harness doesn't really matter. If you are "one of those guys" you can also use 98/99 re-flashable ECU, as well /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

There isn't much from ECU harness that goes "to the body", So I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

Oh I gotcha.

I obviously haven't gotten the harness yet, but the pictures that I've seen show the 4 yellow plugs and then a few other plugs on the harness before it gets to the firewall gromet.

 

[Leon_R]

If you need a harness, I have a 2G turbo/automatic harness for sale /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Are you keeping it automatic or going 5sp?

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

If I had known you have a harness I would have grabbed it, but I've already purchased one. Thnaks for the offer though.

I do plan to keep it an auto and chip the TCU for manual shifting with full line pressure.

I was doing some research on 4g61t.org and found some info on the connection to the body harness click . Looks like there are for connectors, hopefully ill be able to figure out which 2g wires go to which expo wires

 

[89Mirageman]

Not sure if you've looked in the builds section on 4g61t as well but there is a guy that's using an RVR transmission and has a 3g eclipse shifter with the slap stick in it. Pretty cool idea if you're staying auto.

Tracing out those wires took me a few weeks so I hope it helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

Yeah I saw that RVR transmission he was using. I was looking at getting a 2g transmission for backup and it was going to be $285 just to ship it, plus $350 for the transmission itself. Now that I know they are available elsewhere and cheaper, I don't need to jump on one right away.

Thank you for tracing those wires out, it will definitely help me out when I go to swap in the 2g harness. That is the one area that I am unsure about how its all going to go together. I need to order a FSM so I can figure out where those connectors are at. Looking at it, it appeared like I may be able to get away with not removing the dash to get the engine harness out. When you pull the glove box and the speaker cover right next to it, it gives you some decent working space. But if those connectors aren't close to that area, then it won't be that simple.

 

[Leon_R]

First time with the FP Red yielded 11.74@118, both ET and trap speed PBs. But there is a LOT more potential left in this setup!

click

 

[Leon_R]

I got a chance to dyno my Summit last Friday. I got there with 390hp and eventually got up to 420hp. Both numbers are decent, but it can do BETTER!





I am still loosing fuel pressure above 7k rpm! My next step is to get Aeromotive 340 pump. And see what happens…

 

[GSX_TC]

This car is soo cool, and the classic TE37's go so well with it.