610/1000 resto-mod build

[NateCrisman]

Up to Potential. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

yeah, whatever setup I put in #610, I'll certainly tune it up pretty aggressive and will go to the track with it and try to get a pretty solid performance from it. Might need to borrow some slicks from you Gizmo, you still have 23's and 24.5's kicking around still! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

JDM bumpers AND going fast w/ class. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

I was actually looking around last night on the net about integrating the AEM meth injection stuff I have kicking around from the magnum with DSMlink V3. seems pretty simple...I'll use the failsafe output of the meth flow gauge to turn on the secondary maps w/ leaner AFR and more timing. Run the standard maps on the very fat and very low timing side.

 

[prove_it]

You know if you start chasing digits, your going to end up cutting another engine in half with the rod.....

 

[NateCrisman]

ehhh...the digit would be like 11.90 on pumpgas with a 16g kinda digit. Remember, Im building this as an everyday driver streetcar. It's going to have a very very mild setup.

 

[turbowop]

If I were worried solely about performance I'd choose another platform, lol. Anybody that wants to wring more power out of my car using the same fuel/meth without changing anything other than tuning is free to come try. I doubt much will change. For all the mods I have, they're still bolted to a tired stock engine with a ton of miles on a full weight car. Well, full weight other than the sweet JDM bumpers that are lighter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsdunno.gif

 

[NateCrisman]

Well....I got the turbo setup out today, pulled wheels off, broke the turbo setup apart, radiator out, ect.

Looks like if it's smoking (I didn't see any smoke myself), I think it's valve stem seals...I can see oil in the exhaust ports and the valve stems look wet to me (heads light grey, stems dark grey).

Took pictures & will post the Ksport coilovers, outlander brakes, turbo, both manifolds, hks cams, strut bars, 1450 injectors, AFPR for sale tonight.


Guess I have to decide if I want to just swap the head now and never really know....or put it all back together again..find it smoke...and have to take it all apart again.


Car is on the lift now...ehh...there is some pretty bad frame rust behind the doglegs and especially the rear subframe. And there are alot of things that will bug my mind: missing a parking cable, 4ws rack was "cut out" with parts of it sill flopping down there. misc brackets cut off. Maybe I'll drive it for winter, and re-assess it in the spring. Maybe clean up and por15 a set of subframes and swap them in next year...and give the unibody a cleaning & por15 treatment to at least postpone the rot for a while.

 

[NateCrisman]

I decided today to just pull the whole driveline out and do a proper diagnostic on it rather than trying to get the car to run and figure out where it's smoking. There also isn't much sense in leaving a built bottom end, ported head with aftermarket valvetrain, and hks cams in a car that Im basically going to make 350hp with a 16g and use as a daily driver. I can do that with a completely stock motor just as well and I have one sitting on an engine stand that hasn't sold yet. Best to try and squeeze more $ value out of it, as I certainly don't need a built motor in a daily driver.

So trans came out today along with ACT flywheel & act clutch 2600/6puck solid disk. (Ill probobly put it back together with a street disk and stock flywheel)

tomorrow I'll get the engine out and up on a stand. It looks to me that the head needs valve stem seals....all the head ports have oil in them and the valve stems look wet. Prob send the head to machine shop to be checked out, new seals put in, and ready to sell. I'll check the bottom end out myself and make sure all rings/bore is good to go before putting the "built motor" up for sale.

 

[NateCrisman]

Got the motor out and on an engine stand this afternoon. Then pulled the head off...here's a few Iphone quality pics of what I see:

9:1 Wiseco 85.5mm +.020" overbore pistons. (oily on top, but basically brand new. TommyD said the motor had like seriously 3 miles on it and was smoking.) Ill pull the oil pan and start checking rings and investigate what rods are in there tomorrow possibly. All the bores look very nice..no scratches.

Head has +1mm stainless valves, aftermarket springs/retainers. Deck surface looks minty. Lots of oil in all the head ports and chambers.

Nice looking port work.

 

[prove_it]

Those ports are terrible, hope your joking. I see huge cast marks at the bowls. Biggest airflow choke there is. Very nice valves though, look like the MAP valves I used.

Do you think the head gasket was holding together? You said lots of coolant and oil in the ports, maybe I misread.

Hopefully when the guides where installed the guide bores weren't damaged. Did the plugs look like all 4 cylinders were burning oil, or just one?

 

[NateCrisman]

hahaha yeah, I jest. someone went nuts making the port ultra smooth up by the flange, but didn't clean out around the valve seats at all where it's most important. yeah valves look good. has oil everywhere, but I don't see coolant. All 4 cyl look the same, so I kinda suspect some sort of assembly error rather than a part failure. wondering if Im going to find broken oil rings, missing oil ring or something like that. will see tomorrow.

 

[NateCrisman]

Pulled piston/rods from #2 and #3 quick on sat morning while waiting for a customer to pick up parts. Manley Turbo-Tuff rods (nice $) and the wiseco pistons are in pretty excellent condition. Barely scuffed yet. I didn't find anything drastically wrong with the rings yet, at least on these 2 holes. The gaps weren't staggered around like they should, but I don't think that's the smoking cultrit at all.

Will see if I can get some time money to pop those rings off and check the end gaps. would be nice to find "something" awry to fix.

 

[slugsgomoo]

I saw one where someone lined up ring gaps and it smoked like a chain smoker that's under a lot of stress lol

 

[NateCrisman]

 

[prove_it]

Pic no worky.

If the ring gaps line up (even top and 2nd) this will burn oil dramatically. Honda is having huge issues on their engines doing this. The offset ring gaps are what prevent crankcase pressure from working it's way up to the combustion chamber.

The oil control rings can be not lined up and this will still happen. Ring rotation is a normal part of the cycle, but if the rings are improperly installed during the build, then the engine can have a lifetime issue of oil burning. (crazy as it sounds)

 

[NateCrisman]

Fixed the pic...yeah....the oil rings are not staggered end gaps 180*....this piston (I think #2) they are literally lined up. The other one I pulled, I think the oil ring end gaps were maybe spaced slightly apart...maybe say 25* rotated apart. Upper rings don't seem to be specifically staggered at all, they are random.

Nelson also suggested to check for dots or paint at the end gap tips to signify "this end up" as well, possibly rings upside down too.

Now that I see at least one cyl with the oil rings lined up, I'll certainly pull all 4 cyl, remove the rings and check end gaps to be sure they are correct, then do a proper re-install or replace.


BUT....this is the smoking culprit Im pretty sure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Most likely, Im going to put this engine together to sell rather than use. Planning to put a stock motor in #610 since I idon'thave plans to make enough power daily driving to hurt a stocker w/ 16g.

 

[prove_it]

How did the plugs look? Did they have build up? I'm about 98* sure that's your smoking problem too. Too be safe I'd get new rings.

Hows the cross-hatching look? Is it even close?

 

[NateCrisman]

The motor was only run for "3 miles and a few minutes of idle" ....and prev owner said the plugs he had in it were old and fouled anyway..no info to be gleaned there.

Bores look ok...Ill take a closer look soon...but Im kinda on another project and this motor/car has to take a back seat for a week or two. Im building an office and shipping room inside the 36x24' steel shop where I opperate Performance Partout. Right now it's just an open building...Im going to section off a 14' x 8' room, install a ceiling mounted propane fuel forced air heater, run electrical for lights/computer in office, adding 5 more shelf units, a 12' tall wall rack for hardware bins, and building a wall rack setup to store transmissions/blocks/xcases. It's a huge project.

 

[prove_it]

Sounds like it. Good idea, now PPO can operate all winter long, YAY!

 

[NateCrisman]

Yup...it's getting cold here, and I have no computer/desk/phone/printer or shipping bench at the shop. So I have this stupid operation where Im packaging boxes litterally on the freakin floor...then driving home to use computer/printer to make ship labels. It's a cluster...and Iv screwed up shipping boxes long enough.....time to get professional and build a proper shipping area and office.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I need to get out of the Marine Corps and come work for you...

 

[NateCrisman]

Bleh...."shop construction" has taken over in the last 3 weeks...Im still cranking away at building shelving and basic utilities and function of the shop.

BUT I did get a kick in the ass last thursday, as I traded my Magnum SRT8, Kia Minivan, and Chevy Malibu all in together on a Chrysler aspen. So Im down to one single family vehicle (that can also tow car trailer). Gotta get #610 running and use it for a daily driver over winter ASAP /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif