Yes, they do. You should really get an NPT to AN and thread it into the rail (have to tap of course). That does look like a -8, but if that fitting was threaded into the fuel rail, it is really not the correct way to do things.
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560 build thread
- Thread starter clevr4
- Start date
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
The blue fitting is definitely a -8. Did the po tap a stock rail for a -8 fitting, if so that is the reason it leaked so bad because there isn't enough material left after going that big on a stock rail. You can buy a -8 male to -6 female fitting to keep from buying another feed line and fittings.
edit: on second thought they could have used a smaller npt size on the rail end, but that negates the point of -8 if so. I know if it were me I would just replace it all, you just never know what the po hacked along the way.
edit: on second thought they could have used a smaller npt size on the rail end, but that negates the point of -8 if so. I know if it were me I would just replace it all, you just never know what the po hacked along the way.
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clevr4
Well-known member
For right now I just need thay adapter. I already invested in the wrong materials not knowing any better. And the car has been down for almost a month. Do you have a link to where I can find that adapter? I think I'll need 2. I might have the order the long side of the rail adapter from stm tuning
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
I actually have that fitting, you can have it for next to nothing if you want? If you aren't doing anything Saturday I would be more than willing to bring it to you, actually I can bring most of the stuff I upgraded from if you are interested? Pretty sure I can get your car back on the road easily for you.
clevr4
Well-known member
Shoot I'd more than appreciate that, I work Saturday though 7am to 3pm and 530pm to 9pm. I have off Sunday and Monday, but wouldn't expect you to extend that offer. I think i ordered everything I need it just might not be for another week or so. I will take a picture later but I have another question about fuel injectors and how they are suppose to sit in the rail with the seals. There's 3 rubber rings on the top of the injector. Only 2 actually are in the rail the other one is right out side?
clevr4
Well-known member
Those are not stock injectors, so they may be slightly different. On stock pieces, there is one actual o-ring on the top of the injector that inserts into the fuel rail. Below that there is a "cushion" ring that encircles the top of the injector but does not actually seal anything and sits outside the fuel rail.
Then there are the seals in the head where the injector tip inserts through.
Then there are the seals in the head where the injector tip inserts through.
clevr4
Well-known member
That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
tektic
Well-known member
they look like my fic injectors. I jammed the stock o rings in but they were not correct. the spacers for the rail also seem to be different but it may just be the oring fit.
no Teflon tape on AN conectors when you put it back together.
no Teflon tape on AN conectors when you put it back together.
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clevr4
Well-known member
They are fic, I think i got it in right. First time with the injector seal maintenance. Yeah Teflon tape wasn't my idea, 75 year old Pontiac mechanic told me I need that.... come back to the forum was told otherwise. Thanks
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Yeah I'll be busy Sunday then back to work on Monday.
clevr4
Well-known member
Hey guys, been a while since I've updated on anything. What we got today is good news plus some bad. The good is i got the fuel rail assembled and running well. No leaks.
Bad news. I started driving felt suspension noise? That's not the real bad but I hadn't driven the vr4 in almost a month. But i got to the gas station to put some fresh gas in, walking out of the store I noticed I have multiple drips of oil under my car. I was too far to turn around but every stop I noticed I had spots. So I definitely have an active leak, driver side. It's not too bad, but enough to make me check my oil level every trip.
Bad news. I started driving felt suspension noise? That's not the real bad but I hadn't driven the vr4 in almost a month. But i got to the gas station to put some fresh gas in, walking out of the store I noticed I have multiple drips of oil under my car. I was too far to turn around but every stop I noticed I had spots. So I definitely have an active leak, driver side. It's not too bad, but enough to make me check my oil level every trip.
clevr4
Well-known member
First three are oily spots.... this last one is the passenger side...dry as a desert
clevr4
Well-known member
I might have discoveres my own problem. I remember the previous owner saying the oil filter was the wrong side because of clearance issues. So maybe my oil filter has lost its seal on the housing.... it hasn't always been like this will attempt an oil change and experiment with a different filter
The axle shaft looks like possibly grease from a split boot.
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Grab a can of engine shampoo. Add a little pinch of engine oil dye. Dry off the entire area affected and run the car. See what appears with a flashlight.
If you have access to a blacklight of any sort and a set of yellow lense glasses, you will clearly see anything starting and quite well at that.
If you have access to a blacklight of any sort and a set of yellow lense glasses, you will clearly see anything starting and quite well at that.
clevr4
Well-known member
I found the problem, or at least 90 percent of the leak. It was the oil filter. If you look in the picture the PO used a huge stubby filter to fit the clearance of the exhaust. He probably grabbed the first on he could find and was done with it. I got a smaller one that is even shorter. I think it's Delco or something. But I'm going to find a better quality similar size in the future. Maintenance seems almost complete. Then onto you're all suggestions. The previous owner gave me a oil pressure sending unit. I see the old one but doesn't seem to have the wire to the sender. I'm guessing to the gauge. No big deal though. You all will hate me but my fpr is zip tied to 5he brake booster. I didn't have the patience or the supplies to mount the thing. Work in progress
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
I don't hate you because your FPR isn't properly mounted. I promise though, you will hate you when your car catches on fire. Just sayin...
For the oil press sender, it's for the idiot light since out car's don't have an actual gauge. It's not a huge deal if it's not hooked up. Typically, by the time the light comes on it's too late. It is good for initial startup though. It's a great way to tell if you get oil pressure right away after a few cranks.
Even with a shorter oil filter, it still looks really close to the downpipe. I'd see if there was some way to shield it from the heat. You could wrap the downpipe with exhaust wrap. Or, you could even fab up a small heat shield.
You're making progress on the car, and that's what matters. Sometimes it's overwhelming when all the little stuff adds up though. Don't let that stuff discourage you.
For the oil press sender, it's for the idiot light since out car's don't have an actual gauge. It's not a huge deal if it's not hooked up. Typically, by the time the light comes on it's too late. It is good for initial startup though. It's a great way to tell if you get oil pressure right away after a few cranks.
Even with a shorter oil filter, it still looks really close to the downpipe. I'd see if there was some way to shield it from the heat. You could wrap the downpipe with exhaust wrap. Or, you could even fab up a small heat shield.
You're making progress on the car, and that's what matters. Sometimes it's overwhelming when all the little stuff adds up though. Don't let that stuff discourage you.
clevr4
Well-known member
Yeah that leak kind of scared the sh*t oit of me. Lucky it was just the filter. Been dry for 100 or so miles. And there's no leaks from my fpr. But I'm sure it's not meant to be chilling snug next to brake resevoir on zip ties. But i had my fun with the fittings and I cut the line too long so it doesn't easily fit anywhere. I just have to go back place the afpr, then make the lines to it. I also did a hack job on the fuel rail aspect. Instead of getting a 90 degree fitting connected to an end. I made the end 45 connect to the rail. Well I got it all together and my fuel rail wouldn't fit because it was hitting the timing cover. So I had to remove a piece of the cover so it woulwouldn't rub. I know it's bad but, I have to deal with my "rats nest" of spark plug wires, so I mine as well replace timing cover and fix my early mistake. Other than that she is good. I'm curious to inspect the turbo and find out what it needs cooling wise. I see the brake line connected. Another day I suppose
clevr4
Well-known member
Well I have a pod on my pannel, that's a fuel pressure gauge. PO gave me a gold bell looking thing he said is the sending unit. But i was looking on YouTube and there was a fellow talking about tapping the housing for the fuel pressure gauge. I'm still a bit confused. I guess I'll post picture of what he gave me
