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504/2000 Restoration project and 2 other VR4. Why do I love these cars!!

bobdole

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Aug 23, 2007
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875
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U.K.
Finished up the front and battary area. No just waiting on the sand plaster/powder coater to finish.










And removed the stock downpipe:
 

What did your process look like to get it from rusty bucket to this immaculate state tools,supplies process etc very impressive.
 

bobdole

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Aug 23, 2007
Messages
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U.K.
I started by pressure washing the undercarriage and cleaning with Simple Green. Then did some heavy sanding. I also used a wire brush and a wire wheel. Then did 2 coats of Rust Bullet and covered with rubberized undercoating. I replaced alot of parts. I also had alot of parts sand plasted and powder coated.
 

Quoting bobdole:
I started by pressure washing the undercarriage and cleaning with Simple Green. Then did some heavy sanding. I also used a wire brush and a wire wheel. Then did 2 coats of Rust Bullet and covered with rubberized undercoating. I replaced alot of parts. I also had alot of parts sand plasted and powder coated.



Thanks I think I will be trying to get some of this done soon on my car its not too bad but winter will be here soon..
 
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bobdole

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Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
875
Location
U.K.
Update. Got alot of stuff back from the sand plaster/powder coat.

Started putting the front end back together.

Front bumper support:




Front light brackets


Exhaust heat shield



Battary tray:



Intake box:





Fan braket:


Bolted a few stuff back.





 
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bobdole

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Aug 23, 2007
Messages
875
Location
U.K.
Mounted all the intercooler piping. All except the one between the throttle body and bov. Got to find one.




 
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bobdole

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Aug 23, 2007
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U.K.
Couple updates. Installed the heat shield under the car. Started on the welding but had to stop. I did cut all the rust away on the fenders.





 
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bobdole

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Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
875
Location
U.K.
Update:

Got more parts in from Mitsubishi.

Brake dust shields, New Rad hoses and gaskets for the front bumper lights.

fo9AnH.jpg

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RgDISp.jpg

a5y6UA.jpg


Worked more on the welding:
NdVj1s.jpg

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Also took of the side skirts to check for more rust and they look great. So should be good.

nlIINz.jpg

q30FEE.jpg


Once the welding is complete then I can paint with the Rust Bullet and undercoat.
Also the sways are on there way. So I can put the rear suspension back up.
 
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Whoodoo

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Jul 11, 2009
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Binghamton, NY
You should really be cleaning more before you weld. Weld on rust, you get rust in the weld and no matter how much rust bullet you put on there, it will still be there. This means it will rust out sooner in that same spot. How soon is another question, but it will happen.

Good on you for getting your hands dirty though
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
I have used a product called rust mort. Auto paint store's can get order it or it may be available online these days. This can be thinned with water & sprayed into cavities to stop rust & leave a protective coating that will stop it from rusting further. I have used it with great success when replacing panels & wanting to protect the backsides of welds I didn't have good access to. My method was to thin according to directions then use a garden sprayer on wide mist to get back into tight spots & blind cavities. Use it to excess & the metal will not rot from the inside out.
 

Great job so far Mr. Dole. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif That was some exhuast leak. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 

bobdole

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Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
875
Location
U.K.
Quoting Whoodoo:
You should really be cleaning more before you weld. Weld on rust, you get rust in the weld and no matter how much rust bullet you put on there, it will still be there. This means it will rust out sooner in that same spot. How soon is another question, but it will happen.

Good on you for getting your hands dirty though



I cut back until it was solid metal. Didn't weld on rust. Also it was a tough job welding in that location.
 

Whoodoo

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Jul 11, 2009
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927
Location
Binghamton, NY
I hear ya, welding in awkward places is a real pain. However, even just the slightest bit of contaminant getting into your weld will cause more metal to oxidize, so you need to have everything absolutely clean before you start.

For my senior project, my group designed and built a log splitter. For a stronger blade on the wedge, I built up weld beads and then ground it down. Before I started, I didn't get the two pieces of steel making up the V clean enough and it made the biggest headache of all time. The first bead I ran got contaminated, then I was chasing it around layer after layer. Often times it got so bad I had to grind it all off and hopefully find a clean layer to start on again.

Welding is like painting in that, in order to get a good finished product you need to prep well.

Regardless, I have a lot of respect for you for doing it yourself. I'm sure having good solid metal there is a huge improvement over what it was. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

bobdole

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Messages
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U.K.
Thanks Whoodoo. I will keep my eye on that area. Check it from time to time. This is my first time dealing with rust. I won't buy a car again with out seeing it in person. Lesson learned. But I am enjoying working on the car. But I don't think it is that bad compared to other cars I have seen.
 

bobdole

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Aug 23, 2007
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U.K.
Swaybars showed up 2 months waiting. Should be able to get alot of stuff done this weekend.

mF86Cg.jpg

Mte5Bm.jpg
 
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bobdole

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Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
875
Location
U.K.
Got alot done. Finished all the welding. I am happy how it turned out. Installed the rear end, Brakes and drive shaft. Still got to but fluid in rear end and hook up all the rear steering lines.













Before:
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After:
Twwrhv.jpg
 
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