b00st33d
Well-known member
from the first picture above, i believe the lines that needs to be capped is the second one from the top and the bottom line (close to the sway bar)
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hmmm...the plot thickens LOL
Don't both of the high pressure lines need to be capped at the rack? Is there a third in there?
Thanks!
Don't both of the high pressure lines need to be capped at the rack? Is there a third in there?
Thanks!
chucklesas
Well-known member
I couldn't lift my subframe to see which ones I have block off... it's been several years since I've done this, but I'm pretty sure you need to cap the line in the first picture that's coming straight out. I cut this one as close as I could, then threw a deep well socket on there to take off the threaded part. Then off to the left of the bracket, you should see one of the 2 lines going left to right that goes into a T. Unscrew that line from the T and cap that one off. Both with the oil pan bolts.
chucklesas
Well-known member
I'm almost positive these are the 2 lines. I remember having an issue getting a socket around the threaded portion because I was hitting the sway bar. You can avoid this interference, I just don't remember if it was easier when I rolled up onto ramps or just put the car up on jackstands. It's still not the easiest thing in the world to do, but it's do-able.
turbowop
Well-known member
Above post is correct. Here is a pic of what I removed. I stuck some paper towels in the ends to keep them from dripping all over my garage floor, but it shows you the correct lines to block off.
AWESOME! Thank you both /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
chucklesas
Well-known member
So I went ahead and just did this again today on the black car sitting in the garage. I guess, if you REALLY wanted to try it, you could follow those 2 lines back just past the bracket to where they connect with the really long lines going toward the back of the car and cap them off there with those fittings those other people were telling you to buy. Personally, I couldn't even get the lines to disconnect there. Good luck.
Anyone want to place bets on when I finally get this done? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
2 Months..
From date of post or from today? LOL
chucklesas
Well-known member
Well, if you can throw some PB blaster at it right now... you could have it done in about 20 minutes since you already have the 2 plates removed. Where's your motivation level at? Oh, and how much do you care about preserving those lines? The one that goes straight in, I would just bend back and forth until it snaps off close to the threaded section. Throw a socket at it... 3 minutes. The other line, should be pretty easy if you have a 14mm flare line wrench. Even a 14mm box end will get you there, it's just a little tight. Once it's loose I also just bend that one out of the way using a big screwdriver or pry bar.
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what can he use to block the top opening of the diff when the 4ws pump is removed? grind the old pump off? or just keep the pump in?
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chucklesas
Well-known member
I just left mine in. Doesn't mean it's the right thing to do, but it works just fine for me.
1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
Is this pump all one unit, or just a shaft that connects to the bottom of the pump? If it's all one unit, i would take it off. Wouldn't there be lack of lubrication?? If just the shaft, leave it in! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Then again, if I had to take the dif down to get the pump off anyways, I would just do it right and block it off, no? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Charles your feedback has been extremely valuable to me. I thank you for your help. Spent some time under the car this afternoon and managed to get the straight one off by following your bend/break/deep well suggestions. I tightened one of the Earl's caps into place and it looks pretty good. I wont know for sure until the system pressurizes I suppose, but I think it will hold. I think I am going to need the flare wrench like you suggested for the other one. It's in a nasty little place there. As for the diff, I will probably leave it be until I need to remove it for one reason or another. I'm mostly just trying to get this thing rolling again right now so I can scoot up to Chris's and check out his baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif I will post some pics later of what it looks like now. Freaking car is amazingly dirty/oily/greasy underneath. Kind of worries me...There anyplace I can take this thing to have it thrown up on a lift and degreased/powerwashed? HEHEHE
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Alright so I finally got the other cap on. What a workout that was. The flare wrench didn't work out as it ended up starting to strip the nut. I ended up driving a flathead screwdriver through the line right at the base and then putting the deep 14mm on it again. Worked like a charm. Putting the Earl's cap on proved to be a little more difficult. I finally ended up getting in there nice, but it isn't sitting flush against anything. Is this ok or do I have a problem? You can see what im talking about in the pics below. It was the same way with the other one although I didn't notice it until tonight. Are these the only two places I need to cap/terminate? I assume the hoses that go to the back I can now rip out right? I thought I read somewhere that there was three places to terminate? No tips on cleaning up the underside of this car? Thanks for any inputs guys!
And the pics...
chucklesas
Well-known member
The only other place to terminate was at the return lines on the PS reservoir, which it appears you have already done. Add PS fluid, start up, turn steering wheel to full lock in both directions, refill until it stops making weird noises and the bubbles go away.
turbowop
Well-known member
I think the reason I never used those Earl's fittings was because back then, nobody else had used them at the time and I was worried the one would interfere with the swaybar. Looks like it's close, but it fits. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
Cool. Will do that tonight I think. My only concern with the Earls is that they aren't sitting flush against the car. There is a very small gap between where the Earls screws in and the car itself. I'm hoping that the O ring sealed ok though. If not I am going to have a mess when I start her up hehehe
