425/1K New paint, looks like a new car. No 56K DOCUMENTED

congrats terry.. that thing looks brand new!! One day i will get to do that to #78. Gonna put a LS trunk on it, and repaint the whole deal. The color matched door handles just make the car for sure!! BTW did you just bring it somewhere and have them do the body work then paint it? Or did you handle the body work yourself?

 

[Terry Posten]

This is how it went to the painter. Ignore the date stamp /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif






















I did the whole disassembly and re-assemble. Tom Lindle (local painter - also did my 88 GTA back in 2000) did the body work (minor dent/ding repair) and paint.

 

I liked the white ggsx wheels on it but since you went 5 lug those just aren't an option. Glad you went with a stock hood too. Car looks great!

 

[slugsgomoo]

stock hood, ditching the jdm stickers and going with the painted handles looks awesome.

I'd consider the amber front corners and 93 headlights to really bump that extra little bit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Romanova]

Total cost?

 

[Terry Posten]

Its getting the "JDM" style stickers on the side when they come in. Slightly modified.

I drove it to work today. Used almost 1/2 tank to go 60 miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif. Ran great, cold AC on the way home. Looks like the full hood is causing the fuel to boil out of the fuel rail after shutdown. You have to crank on it a little more to get it to fire after the heat soak cycle. The old hood let the heat out fast.

I took a new hood heat blanket and coated the front 2/3rds with alum tape to keep the heat away from the new paint. Maybe it is too far back and causing heat to radiate above the rail.

Now to get the new oil cooler lines ($180 from summit just for the parts for 2 lines /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif) installed and the small "motorcycle" amps (1 for front speakers and 1 for rear speakers) installed for my ipod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif and everything is golden.

Will take it for appraisal later this week. Will post up the amount when I get it. The goal is to have it insured for a dollar amount instead of book.

 

[381gvr4]

Awesome!!! Nice to hear she's back on the road. Love to hear the appraisal amount. You have to bring receipts for work done over time???- Russ

 

[Terry Posten]

No. Recepts are not needed. It is going to cost me $60 this time. The last time they only charged $50. Will post up the figures later.

 

WOW Terry car looks great.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif I really want to paint mine now. .Thanx, LOL

 

[TWEAKD4]

Looks great, I'm jealous.

 

[Terry Posten]

Thank you all for the kind words.

I just received my box-o-parts from Summit today that held all the oil cooler line parts. $180 worth (for just 2 lines) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif Not happy about that. But I guess it was money well spent.

I basically used:

4 9919FFJ Earls 16x1.5 to an -10 adapters (2 for the filter housing and 2 for the stock cooler)
2 SUM-220086 an -10 45 deg flex fittings (attached to filter housing end) Summit brand is a few dollars cheaper and they look exactly the same. (Thanks Car racer)
2 SUM-220087 an -10 90 deg flex fittings (attached to cooler end) Summit brand is a few dollars cheaper and they look exactly the same. (Thanks Car racer)
10 ft of stainless braided an -10 hose
4 - recycled stock banjo washers (with the rubber inners - for the sealing surfaces on the Earls adapters)

I cut the hose into 3 pieces. The first one was 31" and the second one was 41" (shelved the rest). I used black electrical tape to keep the braid from fraying and my 4.5" angle grinder for nice clean finished ends. I cleaned the hoses of rubber particles and used my air compressor to blow out the hose to make sure NOTHING was in them.

I used a very little dish soap to lube the fittings to allow the assembly of the ends to be a little easier (a bench vise makes this an easy job). Hand tightened all fittings and then used a wrench to very lightly tighten the fittings down. Started the motor and even at 80 psi (cold start-up pressure) not a drop leaked. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Refilled the oil level (lost a full quart).

Now all I need is the decals from the "GalantVR4.com" approved supplier and she will be ready for Prime-Time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JNR]

Looking good! Glad you ditched the hood/scoop and those wheels look good, too...I'm mixed about the handles (personally like the black contrast items on these cars), but they look good painted, too.

 

[Terry Posten]

Some quick pics.

 

[Terry Posten]

Well, I have waited a very long time to be able to do this and I finally got the car to the point that it was possible. Went to a classic car museum and had ol' 425/1000 appraised.

The List that is noted at the bottom of the document is basically taken directly off my members rides post. click

Owner: Terry Posten
Year: 1992
Number: 425/1000

Body:
New paint by Tom Lindle
Factory Summit White
New emblems
New chrome
White handles
Rustolium oil based flat black undercoating
Looks like a new car

Modifications:
Motor Fully built by Class One Inc
2.3L stroker with cryogenically treated and Micro-Blue coated bottom end
Stainless Steel O-ringed deck
Eagle rods
JE .40 pistons
ARP hardware throughout
3G lifters
BC 280 cams
Sleeper stock intake manifold that has been cut, knifedged, and re-welded
Throttlebodys.com rebuilt 65MM Throttle-body
Stock oil pan with -10 drain fittings
90 oil cooler setup
PLX wideband O2 with gauge inside cabin
Mitsubishi timing parts
Rebuilt ported head
Supertech springs
A/C fully functioning

Forced induction:
PTE SC6152RSP 630hp ball bearing monster
FP Race exhaust manifold
JGS external wastegate
Custom stainless steel down pipe (Head Dynamics one-off work of art)
FMIC and piping from Extreme Turbo Systems
Forge BOV
3G MAS
4" cleaner setup with a cold air box
Lower Shores Performance MBC
3" turbo-back exhaust w/o cat
Fuel:
RC750 injectors
255 Walbro pump rewired with 10Ga wiring
SARD AFPR

Transmission/Driveline:
Headdynamics rebuilt transmission and Transfer case
ACT Chromemoly flywheel
Clutchnet sprung 6 puck w/3X PP
Pennzoil Synromesh
Brass shifter bushings
TEL shifter
New master and slave cylinders
4 Bolt LSD rear
Red Line Heavy Shock proof in T-case and rear


Brakes/Tires/Suspension:
Ceramic pads on all 4 corners
New rotors - 5 lug Stop-Tech cross-drilled/slotted all around
Yingling 215/45/17 ZR Ultra High Performance rubber
Enkie 2 piece OEM rims
New flexible brake lines
H&R Galant VR4 specific springs
KYB GR2 struts in rear
Monroe Sensa-trac struts in front
5 lug hubs
All new OEM wheel bearing/seals/lug nuts/lug studs

Electronics:
WBO2
SAFC II
Oil Pressure gauge
Fuel Pressure gauge
Boost/Vacuum gauge
Volt gauge
Custom Keydiver chip (stage III)
ECU capped and socketed
Relocated full size battery to firewall

Now for the "money shot":

 

It's a great car but market value on that paper doesn't matter though. It's only worth 15k to somebody that will buy it for that much. Hell, you could insure the cars for 30k,50k, 6 Million if you wanted. But an appraisal for what? What it could sell for? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif That is a different animal.

 

[blacksheep]

Curious - did you go there on stock factory wheels? Says original, but the 2g/3g wheels should not be considered original?

Also, isnt your suspension modified?

And this has never been raced? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Terry Posten]

Yes, their "stock" form leaves ALOT to be desired. But a few comments are in order.

The wheels are OEM.

The "never been raced" is because these forms are used for classic cars and it is not uncommon to have a "documented" racer to be appraised. It does not mean a trip down the 1/4 mile a few times.

The suspension looks stock to 99% of the people and it basically is stock. Uses stock replacement parts. Nothing crazy like coil-overs and such.

The value of ANY car is what someone will pay for it. And that ALWAYS is subjective. For example, I personally would not pay $50 for a brand new Harley.

The goal of this is not to increase a "sale" price, because it is not for sale. It is to be able to insure a very rare example of a very rare car so that if some tool in daddy's Camaro decides to do something stupid, I can recover from the loss that I incur.

 

^You can do that without an appraisal though. I have had more expensive cars valued at a certain price point I set over the phone and then just pay the premium.

 

[Terry Posten]

I know but if you have a licenced appraiser set a value, the amounts are easier to approve from a legal standpoint.

My insurance company wants this document, pictures and full "options" lists. Then they submit to the underwriters and an insurance policy is generated and a cost is determined based on value not book.


I needed this doc for my 88 GTA but not my 40th anni Vette. It all depends on the car. Vettes values are unquestioned (within reason) but "special interest" cars need additional support.

 

[vapid]

Your appraiser doesn't seem very thorough, unless your pictures are deceiving and you don't have power locks, rear defrost, and a sun roof?