4130 Chromoly rear camber arm

[grocery_getter]

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[grocery_getter]

The subframe that the arm is modeled on is a rear subframe out of a GVR4 RS. RS doesnt have 4WS.

Quote:
Is your active toe removed or welded or anything like that andre?

 

the active toe is going to be welded on this subframe, poly bushings installed, and an upgrade sway bar.....along with andre's camber arms it should be indestructible.

we'll post some pics when its done
Quote:
Is your active toe removed or welded or anything like that andre?

 

[Larry Parker]

Yup those swagged tubes are not all that strong... especialy at the threads where there is little material/wall thickness.... My new set upper/lower is made from 4130 also... My UB maching tubes made it through the first rally with out any bends BUT I didnt hit ANY banks.... I will convert to my newest arms in the next few days..... As for alingments.... I did mine on a VERY nice alingment rack and LOVED how easy it was to set rear camber and im my case rear TRACK width .... That being said I ditched the factory toe bolt and that was kinda a bitch....

LP /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Quote:
The subframe that the arm is modeled on is a rear subframe out of a GVR4 RS. RS doesnt have 4WS.



Sweet Jesus thats awesome.

 

[ercp98]

sorry to jack this thread. but those who have afco swage tubes in their cars, please chime in as to how "weak" they are. i am only using my car for daily driving. i will not be rally driving or try to hit a bank of dirt. i just need the upper control arm to adjsut camber properly. i just want to properly align this car. i'm just trying to see if for my application, $300 is justifiable. sorry again for jacking your thread.

 

[CP]

And how do they compare to the somewhat cheaper Ingalls upper arms (which I've got)?

 

[grocery_getter]

Ingals arm are made out of small diameter mild steel tubing. Ingal arm been known to snap, too small hardwares, not enough "meat" to take the load.

These tie rod are teflon lined, have 3/4 shank, same as the balljoint end too. Heavy duty thick as ASS steel tube end (high and above the wall thickness of those swaged end on AFCO tube - thanks Larry for pointing that out, I forget to talk about that on my initial post), chromoly tubing, lap and rosette double welded connection.

Al Pacino would look at this and say HOO HAAA!!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

why isn't anyone making this out of 4330?

 

[grocery_getter]

Can someone moved this back to GVR4 discussion or tech? IMO, this thread doesnt belong on the forsale category. I know it kinda went that way from the outside looking in but I am keeping the thread clean off transactions; all transactions are done thru PMs. The thread is for technical knowhow on how a proper racing caliber camber arm is supposed to be build.

 

[grocery_getter]

...and if you think these rear camber arms are sexy, wait for the next surprise around the corner. In development for now - more cool stuff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[Larry Parker]

I belive the real reason people break these arms is not that are super week, but when rear upper arms are used alone the other soft bushings in the car deflect and can side load these parts.....

LP

 

[number3]

Quote:
Can someone moved this back to GVR4 discussion or tech? IMO, this thread doesnt belong on the forsale category. I know it kinda went that way from the outside looking in but I am keeping the thread clean off transactions; all transactions are done thru PMs. The thread is for technical knowhow on how a proper racing caliber camber arm is supposed to be build.



No problem. I removed the sales pitch parts in your posts, for you so that it stays a technical discussion only.

 

[grocery_getter]

NP, I'll make an appropriate post on the forsale forum once I have them all finished.

 

[Larry Parker]

I dont think 4330/40 is used because it is really ment to be hardened... Also it should be PRE and POST heated after welding... Good for axles, hub and stuff that can be heat treated....

LP