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1g vs 2g auto trans

rexwagon1909

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Jan 22, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Hurricane, WV
If you need a tcu I have a 2g tcu in good shape that I'm not using. I'm manually shifting my 2g using a hurst promatic shifter. Shifter box works good from what I have heard. Again level of performance will also call for correct stall converter. Almost all of my Dsm buddies around here are going auto for reliability and power holding. If you have any questions hit me up and I will try to get an answer for you .
 

VR_IV_MR

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Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
283
Location
Queens, NY
------Is there a way to set it up so that it can drive like a normal automatic car and then when I want to I can use the hurst promatic shifter?



OK so lets say I were to buy this car... click

-----I would take out of it the following:

Transmission
Transfer Case
Starter Plate
Intermediate Shaft
Transmission Harness
Torque Converter (unless I buy an aftermarket one, correct?)
Driver side axle
what else?

----Then I would have to source a 1g auto 4 bolt rear LSD from somewhere else?


---- Any more info on what needs to be done to the speed sensor would be phenomenal /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


----Instead of using that weird axle combination I think I might just get a custom DSS set made unless it is outrageously priced. Has anyone had experience with ordering a custom axle set from them? I've never even heard of a Precis and a quick google search isn't showing much, lol.
 

rexwagon1909

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Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Hurricane, WV
From a price standpoint finding axles that work is far less cost then something from drive shaft shop axles custom made. Granted it took my guys along time to get their swap done. Mine should've done soon and I can share all my info with you. I will try and document if possible. I could probably do a write up on it as well. The précis was basically the Hyundai Excel. Axle on passenger side is just a little shorter with samespline count. To drive it normal you would need tcu and 2g transmission harness. A shifter box should also be able to do what you need. But to be honest I would really recommend trying to do a 1g auto swap, find a shell car with the trans still in it or a part out. I got a good amount of parts from same guy. As far as torque converter aftermarket ones are best but are pricey. You can do restalls from IPT, I myself am looking into Edge converters since they are new and they will custom make for you.
 
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rexwagon1909

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Hurricane, WV
Make sure you get Kiggly 6 bolt adapter. It was made for people with 2g cars & transmissions wanting to put a 1g 6 bolt in. You have to use it to mate the 6 bolt to a 2g tranny. All together I spent $500 on trans and transfer case which is alittle bit but it low mileage. $120 for intermediate shaft and 2g torque converter (which I may not need if I order a new one) $65 for trans harness $100 for IPT shift kit , $100 for front clutches and $100 for end clutches. All new seals and filter are cheap, sensor is like $60 bucks. Kiggly adapter is about $275, starter plate about $20. You will need a cooler for sure I got a b&m for $40 bucks. I got the 1g rear end off a guy and then sold my old one. All of this stuff can be found on dsmtuners and facebook dsm partout page. The reason autos are so nice is that for about $1000--$1500 you can a pretty strong tranny that will def make faster times on the track with proper tuning. If you can get a shell car part out car with tranny your set. My friends car made over 700 whp on his setup on a manual and broke the tranny repeatedly. With auto he has had no problems and the car is faster. Most of the faster dsms are going auto for how strong and cheap they are. I'm not spending $4000 on a built shep and then $1500 for a twin disk. But it all comes down to goals. My goal is a sleeper GSX that will make probably 700 crank hp, I will lose alot of wheel horsepower on a dyno for example but with the torque multiplying effect of the converter I will hopefully run mid to low 10s with the ability to run high 9s with more boost. Granted I will have to run a vacuum pump to hold brakes on the line to build boost lol. Alot of cars were running autos at last years shootout and having pretty good success.
 
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VR_IV_MR

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Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
283
Location
Queens, NY
Quote:
But to be honest I would really recommend trying to do a 1g auto swap,



What do you mean by this? Do you mean that you recommend just doing a 1g auto instead of the 2g auto?
 

rexwagon1909

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Hurricane, WV
Yes if you can find a 1g auto it is far and away easier to swap then a 2g. For me it was very hard to find one locally and since my friend was doing a 2g swap I jumped on board. Another guy I know found a 1g auto car and got it for like 2 grand, took everything he needed for a swap then parted the car and made his money back. It was a much easier swap.
 

VR_IV_MR

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Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
283
Location
Queens, NY
but doesn't the 2g trans have more options when it comes to aftermarket converter choices? I think I may just go with a 2g trans and get custom DSS front axles to avoid any headaches...
 

rexwagon1909

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Hurricane, WV
2g trans since (since its a lockup) has a little less in the sense of converters being built for it. Most converters that are built are non lockup since lockup cant handle more power. Sinister, ipt, etc their billet converter are non lockup. Ipt does a restall and so does level 10. I just ordered a custom torque converter from Andre at Edge Racing converters. He did a custom 10 inch converter based off a 93 mirage with a 4000 stall. Level 10 does a custom lockup I think. Remember you can mod the trans to not go lockup, it just depends on what you want. Since mine will see the street I wanted the lockup ability, and the reliability of the auto trans. Again though if your gonna don't swap save yourself the hassle go 1g
 
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