1G DSM, get it up and running thread.

Quoting HunterDG:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.. when I spliced the 91+ coil in, the plug wire locations seemed to do a switch-a-roo on me. So now I've got the plug wires hooked up differently than the service manual shows..



Yes, it does seem to me that the wire colors are reversed between a 1990 and a 1991+ coilpack. But, if you actually trace which coil the wire goes to, you of course want to keep it going to the right coil for those 2 cylinders.

Quote:
would it be in my best interest to go ahead and convert the car over to 91+ everything (ECU/coil packs/PTU)?
says that I need to replace the gauge cluster as well..
I call BS..



Well, you can call BS, but its not. The 1990 tach is expecting +12 volt tach pulses, not ground pulses like the 1991+ transistor tach driver puts out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Quote:
IS the signal output by the 1990 dedicated tach pulse thing DIFFERENT than the signal output by the 1991+ PTU? It looks like I could connect the white tech pulse wire in my 90 harness (pin 109) directly to the white wire on a 91+ PTU, remove the noise filter on the firewall, and a 91+ ecu would read it fine, because that's the way a 91+ harness would work.



The ECU will work fine, and you will get a code #44 if there is a misfire, but the old 1990 dash tach will not work, so you need to also replace it. That *was* the old way to fix this problem. The new way it to simply get my 1990 tach adapter, which inverts the 1990 coilpack pulses, so the ECU and 1990 dash tach are both happy:
1991 ECU in a 1990

 

[HunterDG]

See.. I saw your tach adapter.. but it wasn't quite clear that it would work for my situation....

I understand that that your adapter converts the pulses generated by the 1990 tach-pulse-generator (on the coilpack) to a signal that the 1991 ECU can understand. It doesn't touch the signal from the tach-pulse-generator to the tach itself.

Am I misunderstanding?

I will have a 91+ PTU, a 91+ ECU, a 91+ coilpack, and a 90 tach. So the 91+ ecu will understand the 91+ PTU tach pulses just fine..but the 90 tach won't know what to make of the 91+ PTU tach pulses..

Maybe I misunderstand how the tach, ECU, and PTU are wired.

I'll see if I can get a visio drawing up here in a sec

Stock:



With Tach Adapter:

 

Yes, but since you have now changed everything but the dash tach, you might as well finish it off. My adapter is for guys still running the 1990 dash tach, coil pack, transistor, and tach driver module with a 1991+ ECU. It won't help you now.

 

[HunterDG]

OK. that stinks, but thanks very much for your help!

 

[HunterDG]

Quoting HunterDG:
...
the car is only running on #1 & #4 though, but I haven't checked spark plugs so i'm crossing my fingers on that.. hopefully it's nothing to do with the fact that I'm running 91+ coils on a 90 PTU.



well.. the 90 PTU was bad, so I swapped in the 91+ and it runs on all 4 now..

Quoting HunterDG:
The sad part.. I opened up the 'immaculate' 90 ECU to find that I had missed corrosion around at least ONE of the caps...

I've decided to stick with 91+ ECU/PTU/Coil pack. Unfortunately, as keydiver confirmed, my tach doesn't work now.. oh well.

Quoting HunterDG:
p.s., the galant ECU is throwing code 14 now, TPS,

It was just another chewed-through wire.. soldered it right up and no more codes.

So now it runs fine, but the damn lifters make it sound like a diesel. check the video for my PTU testing and the lovely Diesel 4G63.

Diesel 4G63

Now I've got to fix the clutch issue.. the pedal is only about an inch or two off the floor, does not spring back up to it's normal position, and naturally, does not disengage the clutch when pushed. Bent fork?

Time to drop the trans!

 

[HunterDG]

got a few more q's, if anyone is interested in helping..

found out the brake hose mounting brackets were mounted on the front of the struts, not the back, and rubbed up against the wheel tire.. so i'll be needing some front brake hardlines....

anyway, I put in 3g lifters today, and the noise remains.. I primed them in oil, but put them in empty, as the VFAQ suggests, and assumed that the ticking would go away after a few mins of running, but unfortunately, it has not.

It seems most pronounced near the intake camshaft sprocket, but I'm not sure if it may be the bottom end as well..

needless to say, i'm pretty useless when it comes to diagnosing the noise, so i've posted this video in hopes that someone can give suggestions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRH_gQBXJME