GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Yep, everything bolts up.
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1226/2000
- Thread starter coyotes
- Start date
coyotes
Well-known member
Just placed another order of stuff through JNZ to go with a Evo III turbo and manifold I'm picking up from Paul. All new crush washers, gaskets, hardware.
Gonna pull the turbo and manifold and all that crap off the car later this week and hopefully fix the leaky water pipe! After that everything should be set to run good again. I am gonna delete the water lines to the oil cooler also. I have a nonturbo filter housing to stick on at some point when I get around to doing an air cooled cooler.
Gonna pull the turbo and manifold and all that crap off the car later this week and hopefully fix the leaky water pipe! After that everything should be set to run good again. I am gonna delete the water lines to the oil cooler also. I have a nonturbo filter housing to stick on at some point when I get around to doing an air cooled cooler.
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GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
If you want to throw the 90 ofh on, I have a kit from STM to block the ports to the oil coiler. Would pretty much be the same thing as you're planning to do, but would be better because you wouldn't have to pull the ofh again in the future. Honestly, its kind of a pain IMO. Lmk know if you want it.
coyotes
Well-known member
I am gonna wait on that, would rather just get all that put onto my new engine. I don't want to do too much with the car. need to get it back together and iron out all the wrinkles before I start doing too much to it.
In other news...
Been soaking it all in PB blaster every day. I am loving the bolts used in place of the exhaust studs.. can't wait to see what surprises lie in wait when I remove them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif I'm amazed I never heard the exhaust coming from that huge crack in the manifold. Also, say hi to the mismatched, stripped turbo bolt.
In other news...
Been soaking it all in PB blaster every day. I am loving the bolts used in place of the exhaust studs.. can't wait to see what surprises lie in wait when I remove them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif I'm amazed I never heard the exhaust coming from that huge crack in the manifold. Also, say hi to the mismatched, stripped turbo bolt.
coyotes
Well-known member
Got my turbo off today, found some more crossthreaded stuff along the way. Kind of a bummer, the car needs a lot of stuff before it's running again. At least this turbo and manifold don't have to go back on. They were seriously beat up. It seems like the turbo saw its fair share of abuse over its lifetime. Enjoy the snapped studs also:
I couldn't seem to get a positive seal on the water pipe still, to the water pump. I may try taking the water pipe off entirely and see how things look.
I couldn't seem to get a positive seal on the water pipe still, to the water pump. I may try taking the water pipe off entirely and see how things look.
coyotes
Well-known member
Got a better look at things, it looks like the water pipe o ring tore on installation. So, time to get a new o ring and it can all go back together. I am going to delete the water oil cooler at this time, is there a different water pipe I can use or should I just loop the lines going to the oil cooler?
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
loop or weld them shut.
coyotes
Well-known member
It's amazing my turbo built any boost at all... enjoy
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
haha wow that looks rough.
CutlassJim
Well-known member
Sasquatch butt!
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting coyotes:
Got a better look at things, it looks like the water pipe o ring tore on installation. So, time to get a new o ring and it can all go back together. I am going to delete the water oil cooler at this time, is there a different water pipe I can use or should I just loop the lines going to the oil cooler?
You can use a 90 water pipe, that's the easiest way to take care of the excess lines on the water pipe itself. 90 water pipes are hard to find sometimes, though.
As far as the oil cooler goes, I don't know how you plan to loop the lines. You need a blockoff kit for the oil inlet/outlet ports if you aren't planning to mount the cooler. Never seen it done any other way, although I'm sure it has been. Why don't you just mount the oil cooler and be done with it?
Got a better look at things, it looks like the water pipe o ring tore on installation. So, time to get a new o ring and it can all go back together. I am going to delete the water oil cooler at this time, is there a different water pipe I can use or should I just loop the lines going to the oil cooler?
You can use a 90 water pipe, that's the easiest way to take care of the excess lines on the water pipe itself. 90 water pipes are hard to find sometimes, though.
As far as the oil cooler goes, I don't know how you plan to loop the lines. You need a blockoff kit for the oil inlet/outlet ports if you aren't planning to mount the cooler. Never seen it done any other way, although I'm sure it has been. Why don't you just mount the oil cooler and be done with it?
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coyotes
Well-known member
I'm not putting the n/t OFH on this engine, it's going on my fresh one. I don't have an oil cooler yet. i would just run a hose from the hard line going into the oil cooler to the hard line feeding away from the OFH. The OFH itself would not be hooked up to anything. Or I can just leave it as is, no big deal.
Just ordered 4 new exhaust manifold studs plus all new nuts + washers, new coolant housing gasket. Going to pull that thing off, pull the water pipe, and replace it with one from Paul when I go pick up my turbo and manifold. Got my die grinder ready for some port action. Finally, something I actually know how to do well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Feeling better about the car though, getting some big stuff done on it and the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. and as always, it's not so bad, I'm just a whiny bitch.
how tight should the exhaust studs be installed in the head? Just snug?
Just ordered 4 new exhaust manifold studs plus all new nuts + washers, new coolant housing gasket. Going to pull that thing off, pull the water pipe, and replace it with one from Paul when I go pick up my turbo and manifold. Got my die grinder ready for some port action. Finally, something I actually know how to do well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Feeling better about the car though, getting some big stuff done on it and the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. and as always, it's not so bad, I'm just a whiny bitch.
how tight should the exhaust studs be installed in the head? Just snug?
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Torque the exhaust nuts to the specified torque and the studs will tighten concurrently. No need to get the studs super tight initially (if that is what you were asking).
coyotes
Well-known member
that's what I want to know, I just put them in hand tight?
Thanks. just making sure everything is done correctly.
Thanks. just making sure everything is done correctly.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting coyotes:
I'm not putting the n/t OFH on this engine, it's going on my fresh one. I don't have an oil cooler yet. i would just run a hose from the hard line going into the oil cooler to the hard line feeding away from the OFH. The OFH itself would not be hooked up to anything. Or I can just leave it as is, no big deal.
Just ordered 4 new exhaust manifold studs plus all new nuts + washers, new coolant housing gasket. Going to pull that thing off, pull the water pipe, and replace it with one from Paul when I go pick up my turbo and manifold. Got my die grinder ready for some port action. Finally, something I actually know how to do well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Feeling better about the car though, getting some big stuff done on it and the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. and as always, it's not so bad, I'm just a whiny bitch.
how tight should the exhaust studs be installed in the head? Just snug?
I was really confused by your original statement I guess, but now I think I understand what you're saying. You keep referring to a n/t OFH. Are you meaning to say a 1990 style OFH which is an air cooled setup, like the one I sold you? Or, do you actually have a n/t OFH?
Second, I think you're talking about looping the nipples on the water pipe, right? I am under the assumption that the oil cooler you currently have on the car is the shitty water cooled sandwich plate design. You can take care of the nipples on the water pipe numerous ways. The easiest being replacing the current water pipe with a 1990 style water pipe. You can also clamp a small piece of blocked hose on each of the nipples. Or, weld the nipples shut, essentially making it a 90 water pipe. I've even seen people seal them up with epoxy and JBweld. I suppose you could also loop the 2 nipples together with a long piece of hose, I've just never seen it done that way. Don't see why it wouldn't work though.
Turbo to manifold bolts are 40-47 ft lbs. Exhaust manifold to head are 18-22 ft lbs. Exhaust mani studs should be installed tight enough that they don't back out when you loosen the stud nuts, although they always seem to anyways. I'm not aware of a torque spec for the studs, though. I put Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant on all my exhaust hardware, and have never had a problem with seized bolts using it.
Oh, and get used to the car being a pain in the ass...This ain't no Volvo, yo.
I'm not putting the n/t OFH on this engine, it's going on my fresh one. I don't have an oil cooler yet. i would just run a hose from the hard line going into the oil cooler to the hard line feeding away from the OFH. The OFH itself would not be hooked up to anything. Or I can just leave it as is, no big deal.
Just ordered 4 new exhaust manifold studs plus all new nuts + washers, new coolant housing gasket. Going to pull that thing off, pull the water pipe, and replace it with one from Paul when I go pick up my turbo and manifold. Got my die grinder ready for some port action. Finally, something I actually know how to do well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Feeling better about the car though, getting some big stuff done on it and the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. and as always, it's not so bad, I'm just a whiny bitch.
how tight should the exhaust studs be installed in the head? Just snug?
I was really confused by your original statement I guess, but now I think I understand what you're saying. You keep referring to a n/t OFH. Are you meaning to say a 1990 style OFH which is an air cooled setup, like the one I sold you? Or, do you actually have a n/t OFH?
Second, I think you're talking about looping the nipples on the water pipe, right? I am under the assumption that the oil cooler you currently have on the car is the shitty water cooled sandwich plate design. You can take care of the nipples on the water pipe numerous ways. The easiest being replacing the current water pipe with a 1990 style water pipe. You can also clamp a small piece of blocked hose on each of the nipples. Or, weld the nipples shut, essentially making it a 90 water pipe. I've even seen people seal them up with epoxy and JBweld. I suppose you could also loop the 2 nipples together with a long piece of hose, I've just never seen it done that way. Don't see why it wouldn't work though.
Turbo to manifold bolts are 40-47 ft lbs. Exhaust manifold to head are 18-22 ft lbs. Exhaust mani studs should be installed tight enough that they don't back out when you loosen the stud nuts, although they always seem to anyways. I'm not aware of a torque spec for the studs, though. I put Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant on all my exhaust hardware, and have never had a problem with seized bolts using it.
Oh, and get used to the car being a pain in the ass...This ain't no Volvo, yo.
coyotes
Well-known member
Sorry. I have the 90 OFH that you sold me. It's going on my fresh engine, not the engine in my car. The engine in my car currently has the stock water pipe and the stock oil cooler. At this point I am probably just going to put everything back the way it was. Although, the coolant fitting for the turbo on the water pipe was siezed and I had to cut it off to remove it. So I will need to replace the water pipe one way or another.
If I get a 90 water pipe, how would I run coolant from the turbo?
As far as the exhaust manifold studs, I need to know how tightly I should install them in the head before I torque the manifold down with the nuts. I get the torque specs for the nuts, but I need to know how tightly the studs should be installed into the cylinder head.
Also, when I removed the oil feed line bolt from the cylinder head, a few of the threads came out of the cylinder head with it. I am hoping this will not be a problem? It was not crossthreaded, but a few turns worth of threads came out.
If I get a 90 water pipe, how would I run coolant from the turbo?
As far as the exhaust manifold studs, I need to know how tightly I should install them in the head before I torque the manifold down with the nuts. I get the torque specs for the nuts, but I need to know how tightly the studs should be installed into the cylinder head.
Also, when I removed the oil feed line bolt from the cylinder head, a few of the threads came out of the cylinder head with it. I am hoping this will not be a problem? It was not crossthreaded, but a few turns worth of threads came out.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
A 90 water pipe is exactly the same as the one you have, minus the provisions for the water cooled sandwich plate. Hence, your 90 air cooled OFH. If you have to buy a new water pipe anyways, definitely just get a 90 so you don't have to dick with looping lines or anything else. It will be plug and play.
Install the studs as tight as possible without stripping the head. The head is aluminum, the studs are steel. Just use common sense and you'll be fine. If you don't install them tight enough, it won't matter anyways. The only thing that will happen is when you go to loosen the nuts, and the nut and stud come out as one. You'll have to remove the nut from the stud while it's off the head as a punishment.
Not sure about the head. How do the threads that are left look? All you can really do is try and thread the banjo bolt back in, and see if you can get it tightened to spec. If not, you pretty much screwed, and may be in the market for a new head. Depending on the damage, it may be able to be repaired. Hard to say without actually seeing it. Sounds like whoever had the car before you was a real dumbass /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Install the studs as tight as possible without stripping the head. The head is aluminum, the studs are steel. Just use common sense and you'll be fine. If you don't install them tight enough, it won't matter anyways. The only thing that will happen is when you go to loosen the nuts, and the nut and stud come out as one. You'll have to remove the nut from the stud while it's off the head as a punishment.
Not sure about the head. How do the threads that are left look? All you can really do is try and thread the banjo bolt back in, and see if you can get it tightened to spec. If not, you pretty much screwed, and may be in the market for a new head. Depending on the damage, it may be able to be repaired. Hard to say without actually seeing it. Sounds like whoever had the car before you was a real dumbass /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
coyotes
Well-known member
Sure seems like it. The exhaust manifold had been off the car at some point, I'm guessing to replace a blown turbo gasket from all that wild rally action. The turbo and manifold gasket were in newer condition compared to the rest of the manifold and turbo. But there was definitely some shoddy repair work in there
-crossthreaded j pipe bolts
-bolts used to secure exhaust manifold to head
-gouged valve cover from hastily bashing wrenches on it removing exhaust manifold
-mismatched turbo bolts, of which only one came out successfully
-semi stripped oil feed line
The threads further in look good on the oil feed port, and I can still thread the bolt in there. when it came out a few mm worth of depth of threads came out with it. So hopefully I can still tighten things back down when I go back in. Does anyone know the thread spec? I can run a tap through it to make sure it's clean. Otherwise maybe plug it and run the feed off the OFH instead.
I don't think I can locate a 90 waterpipe. Just gonna get a replacement and run it as is. Does anyone know where I can locate the part numbers for all the little coolant lines in there? I need all of them.
-crossthreaded j pipe bolts
-bolts used to secure exhaust manifold to head
-gouged valve cover from hastily bashing wrenches on it removing exhaust manifold
-mismatched turbo bolts, of which only one came out successfully
-semi stripped oil feed line
The threads further in look good on the oil feed port, and I can still thread the bolt in there. when it came out a few mm worth of depth of threads came out with it. So hopefully I can still tighten things back down when I go back in. Does anyone know the thread spec? I can run a tap through it to make sure it's clean. Otherwise maybe plug it and run the feed off the OFH instead.
I don't think I can locate a 90 waterpipe. Just gonna get a replacement and run it as is. Does anyone know where I can locate the part numbers for all the little coolant lines in there? I need all of them.
coyotes
Well-known member
So not only did I lock both sets of keys in my car (don't ask) and dropped my only wire hangar down inside trying to unlock it, it puked oil all over the driveway when I moved it to another spot.
I love my VR4 and I love myself even more!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
I love my VR4 and I love myself even more!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
manikbastrd
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2009
- Messages
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