I cleaned up the side supports for the front front bumper. I addressed all the old and broken hardware with welded nuts/rivnuts and replaced the M6 bolts. Threw a few coats of paint on them and bob is your uncle (they ended up black).
When I purchased the car, it came with some pretty ugly fog lights (if you look closely in the first photo of the build thread you can see them) held in with some self tapper screws however, the seller included some OEM fog lights without any brackets. The car itself is missing all of the attachment points so I made a mounting solution and was happy with the end result. - If you look closely you can see I have the ABS plastic on the front bumper.
I wet sanded the fog lights, as well as the headlights. I sanded up to 5000 grit, did a polishing and then added a clear coat.
-I didn't snap any photos, however the mounting tabs that connect the fiberglass portion of the front bumper to the foam and crash bar where corroded past use, those where fabricated as well.

I do not plan to spend any more time on the front bumper assembly so now I begun focusing on fabricating the intercooler piping. I have a friend willing to weld aluminum for me. However after sleeping on the cons of mild steel, I decided to use 2 1/2" mild steel pipe to add the fab experience to my belt and save a few hundred bucks as Id pay my friend. ...I own a 120v flux core welder.
The hotside charge pipe fits between the alternator tensioner, the radiator and the condenser's AC lines with no more than 1/8" of clearance between the four objects. I had to remove the power steering cooler, luckily the steering rack was replaced with a manual one.
The cold side contorts underneath the passenger headlight and is tight next to the radiator, a tial bov flange was used. I had purchased a speed density intake from STM so that I could route charge pipe correctly. The postive terminal for the battery needed a bracket made to mount it in a reasonable location.
Unfortunately getting the hotside piping off will require taking the radiator out, and to take the radiator out the cold side piping needs to be removed. The piping was painted black.
I grabbed a 2g dsm o2 housing from storage and ported it.

The heat shielding for the hot parts is long gone, the precision turbo has the bolt provisions to bolt on an oem heat shield so I fabricated scaffolding around the hotside and o2 housing to affix a thermal barrier. No fancy layer insulated material, not as cool as the welded stuff we all see on YT and IG. Obviously the budget doesn't allow for anything like that, i have $30 and 2 weekends into this.
After assembling the heat shielding I painted the scaffolding and the o2 housing with a high temp paint.
I hate buying these OEM turbo washers at $10 each. I looked for anything else that may work and in my research I found that these are the bee's-knee's of hot parts washers. Racers, turbo civics, rb20det guys all use these washers.
I noticed the turbo intake coupler now has t-bolt clamps, around this time I purchased new high quality t-bolt clamps for all the couplers.

I installed a Walbro 525 pump and used an old Mitsubishi relay to "re-wire" the pump.
The turbo line (the insulated line above the VOLK cross brace) has an earls in-line filter that got disassembled to clean the housing and filter element, I had used this filter long ago.
I came into a problem with the stock motor mount being in the way when installing the turbo drain. I couldn't believe that I was the first person with this issue and a quick search later I had found boosted fabrication's front motor mount. The BF mount needed a little love to fit on the VOLK cross brace but installed easy enough and provided enough room to run the turbo oil drain, which was insulated after installed.
I taped up the hot side charge pipe with heat reflective tape and made a heat shield for the alternator (It can barely be seen).
Here sits the engine bay, missing a radiator fan and a BOV.

The car went back outside for a slumber. I am moving 1200 miles in 3 months and need the time to focus on other projects around the house in preparation for the big move.
As of this post the car needs:
- Rear brake calipers rebuilt
- Decide on wheels to use EVO MR BBS? Think Ill be using Toyo Proxies R88R for a tire (drag and drive).
- Purchase FEAL drag coil overs
- Wheel alignment
- Car is completely dry of all fluids
- Purchase ECM Link, install all additional sensors and tune car.

Great work!! I love evo bbs!