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1992 gvr4 #848/1000
- Thread starter rbparker
- Start date
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4
Port of entry: Tacoma Washington
Life of car: Minnesota, Nebraska, Washington, Colorado.
Putting together a dairy of sorts for the work that I have put into this car.
After driving the car for a few thousand miles I came up with the time and direction to begin modifying. I want a clean easy to work on car that goes fast (relative to my experiences) in a straight line on a bit of a budget.
The chassis was a bit of a rusty mess that needed disassembled, cleaned and prepped for a rattle can restoration.
After driving the car for a few thousand miles I came up with the time and direction to begin modifying. I want a clean easy to work on car that goes fast (relative to my experiences) in a straight line on a bit of a budget.
The chassis was a bit of a rusty mess that needed disassembled, cleaned and prepped for a rattle can restoration.
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Got the engine out and washed the engine bay. I remember it cleaning up very well.
The worse of the rust. Every bolt under the car was rusty and the bottom of the chassis was full of road grime and surface rust.
A stud holding a carrier bearing broke disassembling the driveshaft. I removed the spot welds as to weld in new studs.
The worse of the rust. Every bolt under the car was rusty and the bottom of the chassis was full of road grime and surface rust.
A stud holding a carrier bearing broke disassembling the driveshaft. I removed the spot welds as to weld in new studs.
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New studs welded into the carrier bearing housing. This and the driveshaft saw the first of the rattle can.
I had plastic wrapped the car prior to paint.
Hours of sanding and wire wheeling later I begun painting. The underside rust was sanded and treated with a rust inhibitor before painted. The paint was sanded and or scuffed with a wire wheel then run over with scotch brite and a wax and degrease before spraying a primer. A undercoating (maybe rubberized) was sprayed where uni-body seams meet, from the fake frame rails out towards the side skirts and above the rear differential to the back bumper.
I had plastic wrapped the car prior to paint.
Hours of sanding and wire wheeling later I begun painting. The underside rust was sanded and treated with a rust inhibitor before painted. The paint was sanded and or scuffed with a wire wheel then run over with scotch brite and a wax and degrease before spraying a primer. A undercoating (maybe rubberized) was sprayed where uni-body seams meet, from the fake frame rails out towards the side skirts and above the rear differential to the back bumper.
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I took out the interior carpet and addressed a leaky rear corner glass panel. My home carpet shampooer has a hand held attachment and I used to freshen the carpets up.
I replaced the bushings inside the shifter housing while the interior was apart.
This car may need to slow down with confidence on the streets of Mexico, so I began building the brake system.
I took out the ABS system and replaced the proportion valve with a non ABS unit.
The brake booster and master cylinder where replaced to accommodate for larger calipers. (3g eclipse units)
Running new brake lines for the rear axle. The old lines where corroded beyond use.
I replaced the bushings inside the shifter housing while the interior was apart.
This car may need to slow down with confidence on the streets of Mexico, so I began building the brake system.
I took out the ABS system and replaced the proportion valve with a non ABS unit.
The brake booster and master cylinder where replaced to accommodate for larger calipers. (3g eclipse units)
Running new brake lines for the rear axle. The old lines where corroded beyond use.
Here are the wheel wells painted with the brake lines ran. I painted the center gray because I had clues that what it was from the factory but looking back on it now, I wish I would have kept it all one color. Unfortunately replacement fuel filler hose is unavailable and the one on the car was not up to par for service. I used an aluminum coupler and two gates hoses. Maybe a 45 and 90 put together. I guess I should mention I had taken the fuel tank out, cleaned the inside and prepped/painted the outside.
I made a complete suspension/drive train purchase from RTM.
The rear sub frame got the attention it deserved. I wish I would have taken more photos of the state of the car before I took it apart, I see people part out cars in WAY better condition (always breaks my heart).
Anyway u-joints were terrible but the carrier bearings were still smooth and quiet. I was shorted a component to carrier bearing bushing, I believe this photo was for the vendor.
I purchased 4 1g AWD spindles (part of the RTM purchase included rebuilding the wheel bearings and such).
I made a complete suspension/drive train purchase from RTM.
The rear sub frame got the attention it deserved. I wish I would have taken more photos of the state of the car before I took it apart, I see people part out cars in WAY better condition (always breaks my heart).
Anyway u-joints were terrible but the carrier bearings were still smooth and quiet. I was shorted a component to carrier bearing bushing, I believe this photo was for the vendor.
I purchased 4 1g AWD spindles (part of the RTM purchase included rebuilding the wheel bearings and such).
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nazagalant1993
Well-known member
It's a very solid build. I'm on the same path with my GVR4 but in Argentina the process is very slow due to the shortage of parts. The same thing happened to me with the fuel hose. I hope you continue to publish the assembly process of your GVR4. It's good to find people with the same obsession hahaha
Thanks for the compliment. Hopefully you are having fun with your rebuilding process!
I am not done with the car as of today but am much further along than the current posting and do plan to document the car here. I am posting little by little when I have free time so that I can re-call what I did in some detail. I have been texting a good friend a much more detailed "diary" and thought I should try and scrap something together for the car's history.
Cheers!
I purchased a 4 bolt rear end and a set of complete axles. The preload felt great and Im just slapping it in the car opposed to rebuilding it. Actually the whole car is just getting bolted together before anything gets rebuilt. I'll fall down the rabbit hole of rebuilding everything and years will pass by with the car never being a car.
Someone posted a manual steering rack in local Facebook group for an affordable price, I believe I dropped everything and drove 7 hours round trip for it as the guy did not want to ship it. It did not come with the passenger side bracket specific to the rack but figured I could fab something together. I found Boosted Fabrication makes the bracket!
The Idea of the car is starting to tangibly come together.
I finished the attack on the rust and washed the car as I hate a dirty cluttered work area. My garage space is a hodge podge of concrete and shade tree carpentry, its not the best work area but a benefit to it is that I am able to wash cars inside my work space with wonderful drainage.
Rear VOLK arms installed.
Front spindles rebuilt with ARP extended wheel studs. While being rebuilt the car will roll on RX-7 wheels which use a factory style lug. Toyota Supra lugs were used as they have an open nut.
Someone posted a manual steering rack in local Facebook group for an affordable price, I believe I dropped everything and drove 7 hours round trip for it as the guy did not want to ship it. It did not come with the passenger side bracket specific to the rack but figured I could fab something together. I found Boosted Fabrication makes the bracket!
The Idea of the car is starting to tangibly come together.
I finished the attack on the rust and washed the car as I hate a dirty cluttered work area. My garage space is a hodge podge of concrete and shade tree carpentry, its not the best work area but a benefit to it is that I am able to wash cars inside my work space with wonderful drainage.
Rear VOLK arms installed.
Front spindles rebuilt with ARP extended wheel studs. While being rebuilt the car will roll on RX-7 wheels which use a factory style lug. Toyota Supra lugs were used as they have an open nut.
In my horde of DSM parts I pulled out a set of 3000gt calipers. Not the best caliper upgrade but are my favorite because of the MITSUBISHI script. It would be nice to fit a larger rear caliper/rotor package but I cannot find anything for the 1g dsm platform. A thread needed repaired where the brake line attaches to the caliper, surprisingly went very smooth.
The only photo I was able to find of the rear spindle/trailing arm. At this point I have welded in a VOLK heim joint bushing kit and rebuilt the rear bearing assembly.
I rebuilt the front axles and half the rear. I could not find (with confidence) 4 bolt rear outer axle boots so I soaked the rear un-cracked boots with silicone grease.
The car is finally back on the ground under its own weight, 5 lug now.
I started pulling the engine components out of storage and begun the never ending cleaning/painting process.
I cleaned and painted the bottom end with clear coat, kinda of a homage to its history.
I deleted the balance shafts using a stub kit.
The only photo I was able to find of the rear spindle/trailing arm. At this point I have welded in a VOLK heim joint bushing kit and rebuilt the rear bearing assembly.
I rebuilt the front axles and half the rear. I could not find (with confidence) 4 bolt rear outer axle boots so I soaked the rear un-cracked boots with silicone grease.
The car is finally back on the ground under its own weight, 5 lug now.
I started pulling the engine components out of storage and begun the never ending cleaning/painting process.
I cleaned and painted the bottom end with clear coat, kinda of a homage to its history.
I deleted the balance shafts using a stub kit.
faqinshiet
Well-known member
Someone on Facebook make an adapter for ctsv brembos.
I have the same calipers I switched out the brake master to a 3g.
I have the same calipers I switched out the brake master to a 3g.
For the rear!?
faqinshiet
Well-known member
Oh no! Just fronts. I wish there was any easy upgrade for the rears
I purchased a new front case and water pump. Replaced the front differential seals and put the transmission on to the bottom without a clutch.
-The car has been in my single stall for a long time, during which time the other "fun" cars have been put away wet and all want some garage TLC. I was getting burnt out and the budget for the car was a bit empty. To save garage/storage space and to keep the wheel bearings together I put the engine in the car for the time being.
I installed the front VOLK cross member and had a hell of a time getting it to fit, (As of today its still a pain I may modify it with a hammer to better fit the lower radiator hose) comes with the territory.
The head needed attention and at the time 6 bolt ARP head studs were unavailable. I believe I placed the head on top of the block.
Pushed the car out for the first time in almost 2 years!
-The car has been in my single stall for a long time, during which time the other "fun" cars have been put away wet and all want some garage TLC. I was getting burnt out and the budget for the car was a bit empty. To save garage/storage space and to keep the wheel bearings together I put the engine in the car for the time being.
I installed the front VOLK cross member and had a hell of a time getting it to fit, (As of today its still a pain I may modify it with a hammer to better fit the lower radiator hose) comes with the territory.
The head needed attention and at the time 6 bolt ARP head studs were unavailable. I believe I placed the head on top of the block.
Pushed the car out for the first time in almost 2 years!
You had my heart racing. hah.
I really like the MITSUBISHI script, like really like it. Plus these were sitting in storage and unfortunately its a bit of a budget build.
After working on rebuilding a 2g head for my dsm and rebuilding a 1g transmission for my csm, I was a to bring the car back into the garage. I always wanted to clean the paint up, the car needed (still needs attention) a heavy cut, polish and wax. The paint really "woke" up, 1 picture of the hood after clay bar but before any polishing.
I purchased the rest of the needed components/hardware needed to bolt the engine and transmission together.
I slept on the clutch decision for almost a week as I really wanted a twin disc but ultimately couldn't not justify the price jump and with never owning a twin disc, I was afraid to try it out in this car. I purchased an ACT 2600 with a 6 puck disc hoping it will provide a better "hook feel" than a disc with the idea that if it keeps me from driving the car in traffic ill do something then.
As per usual with cars like these the engine and chassis wiring harnesses needed days of love.
I pulled the exhaust out and cleaned the surface up. I wish I had the skill sets to weld stainless steel, the hangers need attention, the muffler fitment almost meets my standards and the routing around the rear differential is not ideal. I bent up some hanger material and purchased name brand t-bolt clamps and clamped the ever living sh*t out them to secure the hangers to the exhaust pipe. A project for a more skilled future me to return to.
I slept on the clutch decision for almost a week as I really wanted a twin disc but ultimately couldn't not justify the price jump and with never owning a twin disc, I was afraid to try it out in this car. I purchased an ACT 2600 with a 6 puck disc hoping it will provide a better "hook feel" than a disc with the idea that if it keeps me from driving the car in traffic ill do something then.
As per usual with cars like these the engine and chassis wiring harnesses needed days of love.
I pulled the exhaust out and cleaned the surface up. I wish I had the skill sets to weld stainless steel, the hangers need attention, the muffler fitment almost meets my standards and the routing around the rear differential is not ideal. I bent up some hanger material and purchased name brand t-bolt clamps and clamped the ever living sh*t out them to secure the hangers to the exhaust pipe. A project for a more skilled future me to return to.
In the disassembly process I did not take off the front or rear bumpers as the under structure of both were terribly corroded. Disassembly was going to be a massive project to tackle, so I kicked the can down the road and because now I am assembling the engine it behooves me to remove the front bumper. About half of the bolts/nuts broke I wanted to use heat but didn't want to damage any paint work with my torch.
The intercooler was attached to the radiator support with 2 M6 bolts and steel strips as thick as printer paper, the whole thing was just shoved up a hole with 15 minutes of work. The hot side charge pipe was built for a TD05 style turbo which I do not plan to use. I begun placing the intercooler (EVO 8/9) to build mounts and pulled a turbo out of storage that I purchased after graduating high school, 2007! A Precision SCM6152 (not the most efficient turbo) that I put a few thousand low boost miles on and put away. The exhaust turbines in these turbos have been known to melt past 25PSI. If I remember correctly the compressor wheel is designed to be efficient around 33PSI and it wont spool until 4500RPM but will make 500HP in the low 20PSI range with good fuel/timing. I disassembled inspected and cleaned the turbo.
I mounted the turbo on a 1g exhaust manifold assuming the FP manifold (which will be used) puts the turbo in the same place ... which it doesn't.
The intercooler was attached to the radiator support with 2 M6 bolts and steel strips as thick as printer paper, the whole thing was just shoved up a hole with 15 minutes of work. The hot side charge pipe was built for a TD05 style turbo which I do not plan to use. I begun placing the intercooler (EVO 8/9) to build mounts and pulled a turbo out of storage that I purchased after graduating high school, 2007! A Precision SCM6152 (not the most efficient turbo) that I put a few thousand low boost miles on and put away. The exhaust turbines in these turbos have been known to melt past 25PSI. If I remember correctly the compressor wheel is designed to be efficient around 33PSI and it wont spool until 4500RPM but will make 500HP in the low 20PSI range with good fuel/timing. I disassembled inspected and cleaned the turbo.
I mounted the turbo on a 1g exhaust manifold assuming the FP manifold (which will be used) puts the turbo in the same place ... which it doesn't.
I started making intercooler mounts while having to consider a few things. Because I am using an EVO 8/9 intercooler mounted upside down I don't have much room to run the charge piping to the intercooler as the piping will run directly underneath the headlights and have to navigate around the AC condenser and coolant radiator. However I want the intercooler to be tucked up as high as possible as to avoid things like curb, dips in the road & ext. I am going to be using the front bumper support so the intercooler will need mounted close to the radiator support to provide clearance. -For some reason I only took photos of the passenger side mount (they helped stiffen up the already cut up radiator support/headlight mounting area).
About this time I purchased a usable intercooler and am using the knackered one for all this fiddling.
The corroded crusty radiator support has always been some what visible because of the cut up front bumper and its driven me insane since purchasing the car. I would love to replace the whole setup with a "virgin" front bumper but the budget sadly doesn't allow for it. So I cleaned up the corrosion and decided to make what is exposed, presentable. ...For the first time I sandblasted and item (front bumper support), wow what a mess and the media was really expensive. Would not recommend but worked well for those weird areas. Anyway, here is what I ended up with.
About this time I purchased a usable intercooler and am using the knackered one for all this fiddling.
The corroded crusty radiator support has always been some what visible because of the cut up front bumper and its driven me insane since purchasing the car. I would love to replace the whole setup with a "virgin" front bumper but the budget sadly doesn't allow for it. So I cleaned up the corrosion and decided to make what is exposed, presentable. ...For the first time I sandblasted and item (front bumper support), wow what a mess and the media was really expensive. Would not recommend but worked well for those weird areas. Anyway, here is what I ended up with.
When I purchased the car it was running a COP setup with a OEM power transistor. I own a lot of 2g dsm stuff so for the sake of the budget I decided to incorporate a 2g coil pack over purchasing a MSD style box for the COP. I've found that grounding the ignition system to the engine and chassis to be a necessary "mod" for better spark up top. The power transistor gets thermal paste and a heat sync that is glued with a thermal glue to the back side of the unit, it too is grounded to the engine and chassis.
I want to do what I can to clean up the front bumper, so I cleaned up the existing cuts and made a template for some ABS plastic to fill the hole.
I rubbed two pennies together and purchased a used FP manifold for $175, f***er was worth its scrap weight and is one of my dumbest purchases. Flanges warped and the seller skirted around mentioning an obvious crack in runner #3. I correctly prepped and welded it but a smaller crack formed on the edge of the weld. Sadly I plan to temporarily use it.
Got the bumper support painted and ready to be used.
I want to do what I can to clean up the front bumper, so I cleaned up the existing cuts and made a template for some ABS plastic to fill the hole.
I rubbed two pennies together and purchased a used FP manifold for $175, f***er was worth its scrap weight and is one of my dumbest purchases. Flanges warped and the seller skirted around mentioning an obvious crack in runner #3. I correctly prepped and welded it but a smaller crack formed on the edge of the weld. Sadly I plan to temporarily use it.
Got the bumper support painted and ready to be used.
