Oil Return Line Bolts Stripped Fixes?

[CarRacer]

I have a severe leak from my turbo oil return line. One of the bolts in the pan is stripped out. I guess the PO didn't understand torque values.

What are my possible fixes? My searching here says most recommend installing a AN fitting setup. I'm not going to spend money on replacing the 7 bolt oil plan. Pissing away $75 on a motor I don't want is not an option. Is a heli-coil a possible fix?

Thanks.

 

[GVR4_1057]

There is not a lot of meat in there to heli coil. I think that the first thing I would try it tapping it out to 1/4-28.This should have enough metal left in there to get a full thread (.213 tap drill)and not have to buy a heli-coil set. And if it doesn't hold you are not out anything as the heli-coil tap drill for the M6x1 (.250 Dia)is bigger than what you will have with the 1/4-28 hole.

 

I'm glad this came up cause I considered making a thread about it.

I'm ditching this gay moroso pan, the aluminum is just too soft and its leaks from every area possible.

Slowboy makes a oil pan that supposedly has beefier flange bolts or nuts, or whatever. Has anybody on here bought it and tried it? They said its stamped identicqal except for that improved area.

Here

And its only 100 bucks compared to the oem at 190. Other than buying a new one could you just tap or rethread the stripped part?

 

[JNR]

If you take off the pan, you could use some sort of bulkhead union fitting of sorts, or weld a boss there. PITA, but don't mickey-mouse it and risk getting chips in there (sure, you could use grease, but no matter how careful, chips will find their way in the wrong spot).

 

[CarRacer]

True. I'm pulling the pan either way. f***.

How much is a new pan from NAPA?

 

[GVR4_1057]

If you are pulling the pan you can even nut the thing if you just want to get by cheap. I welded a AN fitting to mine and welded the bolt holes shut.

 

[Hertz]

probably been beaten to death, but you MUST use the proper copper crush washers.

 

[CarRacer]

Yeah, I have the copper washers. I see two possibilities. A new pan, or the AN line setup.

Okay, so do AN fittings come in steel? I have spare line left over from the Camaro oil lines. Fittings would be a lot, but f*** leaks.

Other option, a new pan from NAPA. What model/year should I give them for a 1G 7 bolt motor?

 

[GVR4_1057]

anplumbing.com has steel weld fittings in all AN sizes.

 

[Flip4G63]

I'm doing the AN set up just so i never have problems with leaks in this area ever again!!!

that and AN is easyer to remove for turbo swaps and sh*t than those 4 little bolts.

 

[JNR]

Yes, AN fittings come in most any material...If you go thru McMaster-Carr, or similar, a JIC fitting is basically the same thing (37º, IIRC)

 

[GVR-4]

Since you're pulling the pan anyway, why not just have a nut tack welded onto the back side?

 

[iceman69510]

There already is a weld nut there which you would remove and then replace to fix it. Pretty cheap fix.

 

[Terry Posten]

I tapped one threaded hole in Kevin's pan on the motor to the next size bigger SAE. It was real simple. I drained the pan, used axle greese on the tap to keep the metal shavings captured, then we changed the oil after 200 miles.

Worked fine.

 

[CP]

Couldn't he just use a nut/bolt and some grey RTV to seal around the bolt?

 

[JNR]

^^What happens when he wants to remove the bolt, after the pan is re-installed (or maybe you mean weld nut on backside)?

 

[atc250r]

I would just get a 1/4" coarse thread tap and run that in there. Its only .5mm bigger than the stock bolt. If you're worried about metal shavings then take the pan off. If you're not that worried then just put some axle grease on the tap, it should catch most of the shavings that come off but there won't be too many anyway.

John

 

[GVR4_1057]

^ Actually the fine will get more threads in there. The tap drill for the fine thread 1/4-28 (.217)is bigger than for the coarse thread 1/4-20(.201).

 

[CarRacer]

Removed the oilpan tonight. That was pretty straight forward, although getting the pan past the half shaft was a bitch.

I decided to to with the AN line replacement. I only need the turbo fitting and bung. There's plenty of -10 hose and fittings left over from plumbing the power steering system on my dads camaro.

This also gives me a great chance to replace the rear seal in the transfer case. The DS yoke was full of fluid. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[Terry Posten]

FYI - Autozone sells a stock replacemnet for less than $60. You can get either the non-turbo pan and make your own hole to weld an -an fitting on.

But I got the turbo pan because it is reinforced where the hole is so Chris could weld it without risking burning a hole through it.

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