i've always found that shimming it to be straight seemed to be the best thing to do. i just did it by the picture i posted a link to in my last post. i find that the most problems that i encounter with clutch dragging is usually due to the clutch fork being improperly shimmed. the biggest problem besides age that i see with faulty pedal assemblies, would be over-adjusting the master cylinder to disable the self adjusting function (meaning you couldn't push on the clutch fork to depress the slave) and i've seen it more than once.
a good OEM master & slave cylinder are always a good idea. a necessity if you plan on running any kind of aftermarket clutch. i feel like there isn't that many parts in the clutch system, that you shouldn't leave any stones unturned, so to say. you have the clutch pedal assembly, the master cylinder, the rubber clutch line, the slave cylinder, clutch fork & pivot ball, and finally the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel.
that being said, besides your choice of clutch setup and flywheel, its about $350 - $400 (depending on where you go) in parts to replace EVERYTHING else to brand new condition. that's rebuilding the pedal assembly with Mitsu parts and bronze bushings, Mitsu master & slave cylinders, SS clutch line to replace that junk stock rubber hose, and a Mitsu clutch fork and pivot ball. hell... if you wanted to shell out another $20 or $30 you could upgrade to the competition clutch fork, which pretty much wont break the way a stock one potentially could. of course, you will pay more to have someone else do the work, but if you can do the clutch job yourself, there's no reason you couldn't do the rest. the only other hard part is removing the pedal assembly.
in my opinion, most of the time people don't want to bother with re-shimming the pivot ball after they install the transmission. or they simply overlook it in the process/excitement of putting the car back together. to the OP, could you get us a picture of the way the clutch fork looks coming out of the transmission?