Take a 2.0 and make it 2.3

[Diego]

Hi, not really a noob but was just curious as to what i would be getting into with a build... my 2.0 runs just fine right now but while it sits over the winter im sure 1309 would love a summer 2.3 stroker....
So 1, what am i getting myself into.
2. what kind of parts am i going to need?
3.Prices?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
so far i know i need

.20 pistons n rods (what kind is best)
2.4 crank ( cut or uncut) (why cut or uncut)
Bearing i hear regular 2.0 rebuild bearing work....

head work?

what kinda CG should be looked


will be using 272 E&I (WEB,HKS,Skunk)

should i look into a bigger turbo
Currently e316g


TIA
Diego

 

[Terry Posten]

I did it but would NOT do it again.

Refresh your 2.0 and you will be happier.

You just don't get the output gains you expect.

 

But... If you are using aftermarket pistons and rods, its just about the same price. I rebuilt mine as a 2.3 and I am happy with it so far. Great low end and good throttle response. Although I have yet to dyno.

 

[atc250r]

I would just go with a straight 2.4L. The extra few millimeters of deck height stop the piston pin from having to be pushed way up near the lower ring. Its a more reliable set up IMHO.

John

 

[GVR4_1057]

If you do a 2.3 crank in a 2.0 you will need "stroker" pistons that have a relocated wrist pin.

 

There's no such thing as a 2.3 crank. There's a 2.0 & a 2.4 crank. The 2.4 crank is used in the 2.0 block to make it a 2.3L motor not a 2.3 crank. I'd rebuild the 2.0 motor with aftermarket rods & pistons or go straight 2.4. There's machine work involved with the block when you use a 2.4 crank in a 2.0 block.

 

[prove_it]

What are your expectations? Seriously that is the real question. DO you want high revs? A reliable engine? What is your budget?

IMHO a 2.3 stroker is not worth it. Get a cyclone manifold on a 2.0 block and you get about the same low end grunt. A 2.0 build is cheaper and less complicated.

when you get your componets I always tell people to get wiseco pistons and eagle rods. They are about the cheapest combo and have been used in the 4g63 for like 10 years with the greatest reliablity. If you have money to burn then CP pistons are great too, but real spendy. Don't worry about I-beam rods or such unless you plan on building 600 horse.

If you goal is around 300-400 horse then get some new 2g pistons and 1g rods. That setup works great and bumps up compression to 8.5:1 and is cheaper than forged internals.

There are several write-ups on this subject. Do some searching. Try "engine build" with the quotes.

 

Very little machine work though. I only had to clearance the two main caps only slightly.

 

[EMX5636]

^ It depends on the rods you're running. I had to clearance a block casting for the balance shaft in the #3 cyl with Eagle/Scat Rods.

To the O.P.- If you are interested, I have some stroker stuff in the FS Section. To most people, 2.3's are a love/hate relationship. I liked being able to lug around at 2K or so, but with my new 2.0L, damn I missed 8K+ rpms. A lot depends on your turbo, IM, and cams whether you will get what you "could" with a 2.3L.

 

[Diego]

Quoting prove_it:


when you get your componets I always tell people to get wiseco pistons and eagle rods. They are about the cheapest combo and have been used in the 4g63 for like 10 years with the greatest reliablity. If you have money to burn then CP pistons are great too, but real spendy. Don't worry about I-beam rods or such unless you plan on building 600 horse.

If you goal is around 300-400 horse then get some new 2g pistons and 1g rods. That setup works great and bumps up compression to 8.5:1 and is cheaper than forged internals.





Already have 2g pistons on the 1g rods.... my motor really isnt old about 1.5k total on the freshened up motor...

i just want some True RAW street power... i mean im happy with where its at (dont get me wrong) but really everyone here knows IT CAN ALWAYS BE MORE....

i dont want a NASTY build were i come unglued but where i know i can go sideways and pull like a RAPED APE...

Basically i just want better upgrades... where i know i can get good #s out of...

 

[prove_it]

From what I hear a FP red turbo and a shep stage 3 would do that. You'll need new rods for sure. 1G rods hold good to 400hp, but I wouldn't push them like that. Same for pistons. 2G pistons will have a limit, you'll need some thicker ring lands to handle it. If your going to go big and have the money, I've heard good things about Kelford Cams 282 cams. they are huge and will make serious power.
A 2.3 stroker would be a bad choice though, seeing how you need to spin the engine up to 8K to make use of big cams. 2.3 strokers aren't good past 7k.
Other goodies for a high power build include:
Sheet metal intake
Tubular exhaust manifold
High flow valves
Beehive springs and Titanium Retainers
If your going for big numbers get a set of solid lifters to prevent high rpm/big cam lash adjuster bleed down(which can cost up to 50hp)
Weightless crankshaft
Electric water pump
Run C16 race fuel....

list goes on. You'll need a lot of work to be able to break tires loose.

Bottom line is:
how big is your wallet?

 

[turbowop]

You can do everything you want on a stock bottom end, a decent sized turbo, and some good tuning.

I can break the tires loose just fine and throw it sidewayzzz if I want in 1051. Stock bottom end at 138k miles. Mitsu MLS and ARP headstuds. HKS 272's. Last time I raced the car in '05 on a stock intake manifold with just a FPgreen 50trim it trapped 120mph. Car weighs 3280 without me. Do the math. Keep your motor the way it is for now.

 

[thecman02]

Quoting prove_it:
From what I hear a FP red turbo and a shep stage 3 would do that. You'll need new rods for sure. 1G rods hold good to 400hp, but I wouldn't push them like that. Same for pistons. 2G pistons will have a limit, you'll need some thicker ring lands to handle it. If your going to go big and have the money, I've heard good things about Kelford Cams 282 cams. they are huge and will make serious power.
A 2.3 stroker would be a bad choice though, seeing how you need to spin the engine up to 8K to make use of big cams. 2.3 strokers aren't good past 7k.
Other goodies for a high power build include:
Sheet metal intake
Tubular exhaust manifold
High flow valves
Beehive springs and Titanium Retainers
If your going for big numbers get a set of solid lifters to prevent high rpm/big cam lash adjuster bleed down(which can cost up to 50hp)
Weightless crankshaft
Electric water pump
Run C16 race fuel....

list goes on. You'll need a lot of work to be able to break tires loose.

Bottom line is:
how big is your wallet?



I'll disagree with multiple points about the stroker. First of all strokers take advantage of aggressive cams as good if not better then a 2.0 without having to rev as high ~15% less rpms for equivalent amount of air flowing through head. Also a stroker can rev decently high safely if built/designed to. There are some race cars doing 8500, just as easily as 2.0's doing 10k. I say just as easily as a relative term. There isn't anything really easy about having an engine reliably hold together at 10k, or having a tranny shift that high. Also, a 2.3 spinning at 8500 moves the same volume of air as 2.0 at 10k if VE is the same. So I would say your spreading misinformed info.

Anyways there is plenty of stories with people with stock/stockish engines with 50 trims and 20g's lighting up the tires from a roll. You just need a good tune and a midsized turbo/supporting mods. As proven with post above.

 

[beigetsi]

Unfortunetly its all just opinon based you have to come to your own conclusions as to what you want. You need long hours of research and ironing out of personal restrictants(ie-money,time,work area requirements,tools,etc). I went with bc 272's with springs to match, on a 100 mitsu crank, JE half skirts, with a kigly for insurance(apparently caps lift after 400, allegedly). If I was to do it again definetly 288's with the beez springs, and the eagle 102 mm(hks freakin expensive), full wiesco's. FP stuff is great too but a little more, as the saying goes, I am sure you know it. BUT DO YOUR RESEARCH helps when making an educated post to narrow the questions you need answered. Grinding the bridges is a pain in the ass as well as skirt clearance for the girdle, DO NOT just bang on the oil pan, get the 2.4 pan tcase will clear easy and you wont have to worry oil leak gremlins. Definetly a 35r or red, delish.