Rustoleum black paint jobs?

[fastfalcon94]

Has anyone tried this on a galant? My paint is to the point where anything would look better. My car has a lot of dings that need fixing, the roof has clearcoat pealing, one of my sideskirts is cracked, my trunklid looks like it was keyed at one point in time. I'm thinking I can't make it any worse. I'm thinking either gloss black or satin black.

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Not sure what I would do about that chrome molding around the car.

The car:

 

[alansupra94]

I think that link shows a guy that rolled it on.

I mean if you want to try it go for it, its your car.

 

[89Mirageman]

If you ever plan to get it painted correctly in the future it will be a lot more work getting that other stuff off. If you just want it to look decent from 15-20 feet away now for cheap I guess you could try it.

 

[14u2nV]

I painted my truck with flat black rattle-cans, and it turned out pretty good. The trick I used was to make sure I sanded the whole truck, sprayed a complete section at a time with 2 light coats, then sanded it with light sandpaper. After that, one more coat of flat and she was done. Unless I tell people, they can't tell it was from a can, cost me about 5 or 6 cans of paint. I didn't clear it, but could have. I just wanted the truck all one color.

*I've actually been planning on doing my car too, at least to hold it till I can get it sprayed a color I want. Give me a couple weeks and I'll show you what it looks like. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[524of1000]

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[Terry Posten]

Try and find a shop that does the $300 paint jobs. Do all the prep work yourself, like remove all trim and lights.

Search for places like Macco.

 

[Terry Posten]

Sorry, search Maaco instead.

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[fastfalcon94]

Well I know how to paint. I have all the tools to do it right. I just know it's a lot of work and seeing as this is just supposed to be a daily driver I don't want to spend $500ish on primer/sealer/paint/clearcoat and have a ton of hours into it. Here's the 3000gt I painted, more pics from start to finish here:

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[CutlassJim]

Paint41.jpg need moar wing.

 

Quote:
Most spray paint jobs look horrible to me.Quote:


Actualy realy good results can be had with an aerosol, The problem is people who use aerosol don't know how to paint.

FastFalcon94, I'm sure if you fix the clear and polish the car it won't look so bad. Here is a car that I fixed realy bad clear coat peel on before and after pics.




The trick realy is just treat the aerosol the same as any regular cun, use the same spraying technique etc and just adjust your style for the narrow fan.

 

[JNR]

Yeah, I've never done a whole car, but have painted large sections of (other things) gloss black that came out pretty good, but as mentioned, it takes a lot of prep, interim work and a good technique with the can. Those trigger sprays that attach on help your finger from cramping up, but otherwise, try your thumb, as the worst part when using a can is inadvertently getting the end of your finger past the nozzle and you get splatters.

I wouldn't suggest doing a spray can job on a car though, unless it was a total beater and even then. Do you (OP) have access to a spray gun and compressor? That'd be the way I'd go, but the worst part on that (if not HVLP) is the overspray and finding somewhere that dust and stuff won't get on it when it's wet.

spray some clear, color sand and it'll come out looking decent. Just stay away from pearls and metallics, as those can be tricky.

 

Quote:
Those trigger sprays that attach on help your finger from cramping up



Sounds like you've done this before lol. Yeah the roof I painted, my hand was shaking when I had finished.

Don't skip the clear coat, most aerosols are single pak and won't last when out in the weather without a clear. I don't know about Rustoleum but I can vouch for Dulux /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif I was talking with a paint shop who custom fills aerosols and they said that it's the same stuff you spray in a gun.

Don't paint outside! wet paint on a car becomes a magnet for everything, afterwards when you run your hand over it it will feel like sandpaper /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif Get it into a clean garage, dampen the floor and make sure it's nice and warm with a heater or something especialy the car as metal's cold and if it's cold when you paint runs are more likely.

I can see that it is a bit rough in the photos, but you'd be supprised how much better it could be with a cuting polish, just mix the polish with water. Then you could take care of the peeling clear like I did. You could get a paint shop to mix you a little color matched to your car and just pencil touch the real bad bits like if you get your skirt plastic welded.

 

[fuel]

after attempting a roll on paint job myself, I wouldn't advise to do it. If you've spray painted car before that would be the best way to do.

 

[fastfalcon94]

Well I sanded down most of the hood today, filled in a few dings it had too. The front under edge of it was rusty so I sandblasted that and cleaned it up. I think I'm going to try the roller method on just the hood first. A gallon of the rustoleum paint is $36 at Lowes. I pulled off the chrome trim piece on the front bumper too. I think I'm going to just fiberglass the gap and get rid of the trim piece completely. Does anyone know how to remove the trim pieces on the roof? I'd like to at least move those before painting. I'll paint everything with the door caps, spoiler, front/rear bumper off the car. I may even foam brush the door jams too.

 

[DR1665]

195/2000 has a Rustoleum rattle can job. Done back in 2008, the car hasn't seen much street time since (less than 200 miles, actually), but it's held up fairly decently. These pictures were taken in June of this year.

Rolled it out on the street so I could work on 464 in the garage.


There was a lot of bare metal exposed under the fenders, so I shot it with the same paint (from the same cans, even) from 2008. You can see how it compares to the doors, which have been painted for about three years.


Interior of the engine bay will be white, by the way. Easier to spot leaks.

 

[beaner]

I have not done the roller thing, but I know it does work. sh*t, they used to roller cars in the factory wayyyy back in the day. What I do know is if you ever want to paint your car correctly in the future and you rolled it, you might be SOL. I think it has to be all removed and that paint is for like farm tractors. I dont think you could chip that crap off with a hammer.

Here's MY $50 paint job. I'm pretty good with a spray can so I went that route. I think I used about 12 cans. Before it was embarrassing driving the car, now it atleast looks normal. The actual painting part is probably 5% of the job. The trick is getting the body as straight and smooth as possible, pop off all trim, lights, bumpers, etc etc. I would do 1 panel/section at a time, and wetsand it about 30 min after spraying. The problem with most spray paint jobs is the paint is uneven and blotchy. Wet sanding and using enough paint cures that.







I'll also add that if you do go the route of spray can, don't feel you have to go with the expensive stuff. I bought 5 cans of different brand white at my local store and test sprayed to find the closest match color for my 2g. Turns out the closest match was 1.09usd/can.





If you can't tell which panels are spray painted, I won't either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[fastfalcon94]

Yeah white is a pretty forgiving color. I had some time this morning to start working on it. Ended up pulling the bumpers, sideskirts, door panels, door trim, window trim, door handles, roof trim, fenders, tail lights, spoiler, hood etc.. I also sandblasted a few things. I had some rust starting to appear under the front of the hood.

All I can say is WOW at how heavy the rear bumper is. The thing must weight 70+ pounds. I'm going to have some fun with my plasma cutter. I'm going to prep it all for paint this week, possibly even tomorrow. Filling in where the chrome molding was is going to take some time. I may spray the rustoleum instead of rolling it but who knows. I'd rather roll it to keep the over spray down. I may try a panel first to see how it goes.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

im in the same situation as you are with my car. The previous owners, horrible prep job before he painted it is now showing where all the paint is flaking off and little rust spots are showing through. I am most likely gonna go the Maaco route as i can't afford to spend $5000 on a paint job. I have had a car painted before by them and it actually turned out good, just make sure you put on crappy wheels cause they tend to overspray badly. Im gonna prep the entire car myself and take it them to spray it. You can go from the cheap $300 job or up to their "elite" paint job for $1000. I did buy a spray can of the factory matched paint online and painted my fender which turned out decent. i just make the mistake of only buying one can of paint and clear coat so i didnt get a thick enough coat on it.

 

[Boost4U]

Before

After

But don't get too excited, as somebody else said, white is a forgive color and it looks a lot better in pictures than in person. I spray the car with Rustoleum oil based paint mixed with mineral spirits. If I were to do it again, I would have prepped it and taken it to Maaco.

 

[DR1665]

Quoting Beaner: