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Poll: how does the end of my driveshaft look?

stealthtt24

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
2,746
Location
Orlando, FL
In my build thread, someone made a comment about how they wouldn't attach their transfer case to the beginning part of my driveshaft. Well I cleaned it up and wanted to see what you guys think, yay or neh? I can't get to the inside of the splines as you can see..

IMAG0190.jpg

IMAG0189.jpg

IMAG0193.jpg

IMAG0196.jpg

 
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Yes id deff go ahead and hook up the drive shaft. Good job on the clean up.



Jesse
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
You cleaned up the outside of that yoke really nicely,

... but ...

I wouldn;t even think of using it as it sits.

The inside of the yoke has to be able to slide easily on those internal splines as the motor/trans moves around under load.

Any binding there will cause all kinds of issues/noises/harmonics/unecessary wear, and anything that is scraped/sloughed off will contaminate the .6 of a quart of lubricating oil that keeps the t-case alive.




The good news is that it's not really that hard to cleean the internally splined portion.

It's too far gone for just a bottle brush (found in the baby section at most drug stores) They are usually enough to clean light deposits and other junk out of the internal splines.

However, a metal gun brush and some wd-40 will probably clean that up just fine.

Just go to your local gun store and pick up one that's in the same diameter range as the major diameter of the splines. (If the store owner asks, tell him you've got a home built single shot cannon /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif )

Just spray things down inside with wd-40 and plunge the brush straight in and out, don;t try and rotate it inside, it'll distort the brush strands and you need them facing straight out to get down into stuff that's at the base of the splines.

Wear safety glasses and blow out the contaminates with compressed air, and follow up with brake clean or other evaporating solvent.

Doesn;t have to be "perfect", but rolling the dice on a t-case failure is not a good bet.



It's also worth noting a new yoke is ~$30 from the dealer, and some time to install it.

Another option is a small metal toothbrush from harbour freight with cut down bristles
 
Last edited:

stealthtt24

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
2,746
Location
Orlando, FL
Thanks toybreaker, I will head up to the gun store and get a metal gun brush this Wednesday and post the after pics!
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
You can also get one of those battery terminal cleaners, pull the wire brush part out, straighten the wire and use that. Could also be used in a drill that way to clean inside parts. Prolly a lot cheaper than the gun one. I've used about 4 of them in the past couple years doing stuff like that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

I had to get mine sandblasted and redone because i was lazy and didint hook it up and pushed the car around my house in the red dirt. yours looks better then mine almost! great job
 

stealthtt24

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
2,746
Location
Orlando, FL
This is after using toybreakers method about five or so times. Still a lil rusty inside, what so you guys think?

IMAG0201.jpg

IMAG0202.jpg
 

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting toybreaker:</font><hr />
You cleaned up the outside of that yoke really nicely,

... but ...

I wouldn;t even think of using it as it sits.

The inside of the yoke <i>has</i> to be able to slide <i>easily</i> on those internal splines as the motor/trans moves around under load.

Any binding there will cause all kinds of issues/noises/harmonics/unecessary wear, and anything that is scraped/sloughed off will contaminate the .6 of a quart of lubricating oil that keeps the t-case alive.




The good news is that it's not really that hard to cleean the internally splined portion.

It's too far gone for just a bottle brush (found in the baby section at most drug stores) They are usually enough to clean light deposits and other junk out of the internal splines.

However, a metal gun brush and some wd-40 will probably clean that up just fine.

Just go to your local gun store and pick up one that's in the same diameter range as the major diameter of the splines. (If the store owner asks, tell him you've got a home built single shot cannon <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif" alt="" /> )

Just spray things down inside with wd-40 and plunge the brush straight in and out, don;t try and rotate it inside, it'll distort the brush strands and you need them facing straight out to get down into stuff that's at the base of the splines.

Wear safety glasses and blow out the contaminates with compressed air, and follow up with brake clean or other evaporating solvent.

Doesn;t have to be "perfect", but rolling the dice on a t-case failure is not a good bet.



It's also worth noting a new yoke is ~$30 from the dealer, and some time to install it.

Another option is a small metal toothbrush from harbour freight with cut down bristles

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">



Good to know I always made sure it wasn’t obstructed. But I will also do this in the future.





Jesse
 
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