Opinions on FMIC kit.

[desant78]

Hello gvr4.org

A friend is starting a hx35/40 build, and suggested using this set up for his FMIC plus IC piping. VRSF FMIC kit

Anyone ever use this kit? and thoughts for FMIC size to run a hx35/40 setup.


Suggestions/opinions/tips are greatly appreciated!

thanks in advance.

 

[ktmrider]

Found this on Tooners: click

Price is definitely low. Link above is from 2010 with no updates, so long as the materials aren't made of recycled soda cans it could be a viable option.

Liked the screw-on BOV flange option altho aluminum threads wouldn't hold up for many swap cycles.

 

[5OF2k]

I have the VRSF 1g kit on my car with my t67, still havent seen heatsoak or anything like that. I had to modify it a bit because im running a SMIM, but woth the stock manifold itd be a direct bolt on, i assume(i also had to trim the hot side intercooler inlet anout 3", otherwise it wouldnt clear the alternator. Apparently our cars are shorter than DSMs).

All in all, good kit, well worth the $$

Also, flanges arent screw-on anymore. Its all welded and shipped/built to order.

Hooe that helps!

-Jake

 

[CutlassJim]

The VRSF is a very viable option. The price point is awesome. My only caveat with it is that it's a shitty quality core. If you say otherwise you are either lying to yourself or have never seen a good quality Garret or Bell intercooler core. The reason people have good luck with it is because the core is huge. That's actually true about %99 of the DSM's out there, they are very "over intercooled". Everyone wants a core that fills the whole grill. Not that that's a bad thing as long as your still getting enough airflow to the radiator.

The cheaper quality cores usually have a very good pressure drop across the charge section too because they don't have all the turbulators that a more expensive core would have. I've never heard of them having a problem cracking or not holding pressure either.

So if you've got the room for it I say go for it. It's cheap and will get the job done. Worst case it's not cooling enough you can sell the core and buy a nicer one and use the original piping.

 

[tsitalon1]

Looks like the VRSF kit would require considerable modifications to fit a GVR4...

Anyone do it on a GVR4?

 

[5OF2k]

Quoting 5OF2k:
I have the VRSF 1g kit on my car with my t67, still havent seen heatsoak or anything like that. I had to modify it a bit because im running a SMIM, but woth the stock manifold itd be a direct bolt on, i assume(i also had to trim the hot side intercooler inlet anout 3", otherwise it wouldnt clear the alternator. Apparently our cars are shorter than DSMs).

All in all, good kit, well worth the $$

Also, flanges arent screw-on anymore. Its all welded and shipped/built to order.

Hooe that helps!

-Jake



uhhmmm......lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

 

With that FMIC, can you keep your A/C on a GVR4?

 

Probably ive seen it depends on the kit but my ac is gone I have 4 working windows lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

I live in a 100°+ Valley in California.....I NEED A/C....

 

[bmxr152]

I lived thru two summers in bakersfield with no ac in my vr4 and one in phoenix.

 

On the coast in Alabama I use my 445 ac 4 windows down at 45.

 

Not bad. I am too old to deal with it. I would rather pay the extra to keep the A/C if possible.

 

[mitsuturbo]

That looks almost identical to the one i got.

Mine is fabbed from a spearco 2-120 core, and was purchased from MachV. I cut the passenger side pipe across the bottom and bent it down a bit, then had it re-welded after getting it at the angle i needed. The way it came, the exit pipe just stuck up at too far of an angle and would have likely caused some fitment/interference issues with the 4" intake pipe. I also cut off the mounting tab and had it welded where i needed it to bolt to the hood support bracket, so that i could have the IC sit dead center in the bumper. It fills the hole in the (cut) USDM bumper perfectly from top to bottom.

Oh, one other thing. The TB elbow that came with it wouldn't clear the CAS or water neck very well, so i wound up ordering a stainless one with IAT bung from ETS. I honestly didnt use ANY of the plumbing it came with, because i wanted all stainless rather than aluminum. It weighs a bit more, but it polishes up nice and doesn't oxidize nearly as quickly or as badly.

(I just looked at the tooners link, and it looks like it might be the same FMIC i got, but mine came without any BOV flange. Couplers and clamps look the same.)

 

[Yohler]

Any further thoughts on this setup? Price is right, but cold A/C is not something I'm looking to give up.

 

[car_guy]

I'm in the process of installing the VRSF intercooler right now. I had to have the intercooler outlet doglegged and moved in about 1 1/8". It was too wide to fit between the AC lines. With the placement up and down, it looks like my UIP is going to be too long. I won't know until I get it final mounted. I am going to have to modify the mounting tabs and find a place to bolt the thing up. I'm running a FP 68HTA and FP manifold. So far the modifications I have had to do are:

[*]Cut headlight bucket to allow intercooler inlet to pass through.
[*]Relocate my radiator about 3/4" towards the drivers' side to allow the intercoooler inlet to pass between the car frame and radiator.
[*]Narrow driver's side (outlet) pipe on the intercooler to fit between radiator and AC lines (1 1\8" in).
[*]Trim hood latch brace (vertical portion in front center of the radiator).
[/list]
Looks like I might also have to trim the upper intercooler pipe due to placement being higher and thus closer to the throttle body elbow than the kit was designed. I may also potentially notch a small piece of the frame on the end of the passenger side to allow the intercooler to sit closer to the radiator. It's been much more modification than I thought, but I am determined to keep the AC.

 

[Yohler]

Good stuff, if you don't mind throw out some pics and updates? Perhaps another starting point will be in order.