oil pan help

[boostingwild]

my stock oil pan is giving me a problem. well i changed the turbo and the oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan is giving me hell now. i bought new oem gasket but everytime i try to get the bolts to go in one of them strip and leak. the bolts are different sizes. which one goes where, and what am i doing wrong that this keeps happening. anyone have a solution for this or an alternative (better way) to fix this.

 

The bolts shouldn't be different sizes. I usually put a little silicone on the bolt threads and let it dry before driving it. Also make sure to replace the washers that go on the bolts, both at the turbo and the pan. Even with a fresh gasket, I hondabond both sides prior to install and wait until it's dry before I run the car.

 

lol, yeah that oil return line is a pita. I would love -an fittings instead... lol

 

[Rausch]

They should be the same on both sides of the flange. Guess someone has been in there and replaced/rethreaded or just run something in there. You could always drop the pan and re-tap/drill teh bolt holes to a size that will work....Always a good excuse to sway T-case fluid too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

As an alternative you can get a bulkhead fitting for the pan. This would require you to also get a fitting for the drain on the turbo, and some good hose in between. Or you can get AN fittings and use braided line as well.

If you opt for that route, be sure to go at least -8 or larger. If you go too small, you'll eind up with some back pressure issues and blowing smoke.

 

[boostingwild]

ill just drop the pan and rethread. what oil do you guys recommend in transfer case while im down that road?

 

[mooserage]

personally, I use redline lightweight shockproof in the Tcase, its worked great so far. And if the seal is leaking you usually notice the blue of the oil splattered around...

 

[turbowop]

Quoting customf4i:
lol, yeah that oil return line is a pita. I would love -an fittings instead... lol



There's really nothing wrong with the oil drain. They usually leak because people try to reuse the little crush washers on the bolts that seal it. Those washers need to be replaced *everytime* you unbolt the drain line from the pan.

I wouldn't suggest rethreading it, since you may not be able to use said crush washers. If it were me, I'd try to find a good used factory oil pan to replace yours with. Then use new gaskets and crush washers on the drain line when you put it all back together.

 

[mikus]

^ +1 it fails because of user - reusing cheap gasket/washers, letting turbo 'sit' on it, etc.

Not that AN's wouldnt' be better, but if done right it doesn't leak.

 

[dmj]

Anyone else besides me using redline heavy weight in the transfer case ?

 

[Rausch]

Quote:
I wouldn't suggest rethreading it, since you may not be able to use said crush washers. If it were me, I'd try to find a good used factory oil pan to replace yours with. Then use new gaskets and crush washers on the drain line when you put it all back together.

Good point. To do that you'd definitely have to get new crush washers (correct size, if the stock size woudl not fit (NExt size up in std. should still work with stock sized washers.

As an aside, I remember a stock oil pan at Advanced or Vatozone being cheapo (like $60 or so)....

 

The stock nuts welded on the inside are the weak link in that oil pan. Of course it doesn't help when people remove them numerous times to change that gasket.

The trick is to get that surface area and the flange area squeeky clean and use a new gasket and washers, then you shouldn't have any leaks. Too many people reuse that gasket and don't get a good seal so then they take it apart again and do it all over which equals more stress on those threads.

Now that it's stripped you have to try and rethread it or have new nuts welded on the inside of the pan.

Or you could buy the one I'm selling and never worry about that stripped leaking crap again, you just need to buy a new fitting for your center cartridge and a few AN fittings and some hose. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[turbowop]

You could call the stock nuts the weak link, but I think the problem is people trying to torque the bolts down too much thinking they'll get a better seal after reusing the old crush washers. The torque value for those little bolts is supposed to be like 6 or 7 ft/lbs if I recall. Whatever it is, it's not much. People really should RTFM. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

Werd.

 

[boostingwild]

hey wop thanks for the info. i guess i pulled a noob move, and i did reuse the washers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
i did however get a new gasket. if the oil pan is so cheap ($60) ill just get new one and call it a day.
so i just have to get some new crush washers and new bolts and im good.

thanks for all the help guys. after this i will be one step closer to actually driving the POS

 

Ok I have a question for the veterans. I'm trying to swap oil pans and am currently removing one but its being a bitch and doesn't want to break free. WHat do you guys use to break the seal?

 

[turbowop]

Before you go prying on it, make damn sure you got all the bolts. A couple of those bastards are hard to see. I've put a piece of wood against mine and hit that with a hammer in the past, or really careful prying. I think the service manual shows how to do it as well, but with a specific tool.

 

Thanks man. Putty knife FTW. We were able to get er in there and slide it along and break er free along with gentle taps from a hammer.

Also, you can use a gasket with the moroso pan. Harry had one on there along with rtv sealant and that sucker was on there good. No leaks. I only changed it cause I found a crack in it and to have a male bung welded onto the new pan, which is also a moroso.

I think I may have tightened the pan on too soon before letting the new sealant dry. How long do you typically wait before bolting it on? I squeezed it out onto the surface and it seemed to start to dry quickly so I got it up on there and start tightening all the bolts starting one at each corner and working towards the center. Just wondering cause I don't want all the gasket sealant to seep inside. I used Hondabond.

 

[turbowop]

I mentioned this in another thread, but I usually install the pan right after running a bead of RTV around it. No need to wait.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

Quoting dmj:
Anyone else besides me using redline heavy weight in the transfer case ?



I'm right there with you.

 

Nice. After looking at the old gasket/pan I might remove the new pan during the week just to see how my gasket took shape. I dunno.