newb Q

[holycowman]

Hi,
Newly posting but have been 'voyeur'ing the forum since picking up a "mildly" underhood toasted vr4. Q is, I've seen a couple different tie in points when lifting out an engine, but nothing that specifies through pictures, where those are exactly. does anyone have a pic when they did an engine 'yank' / removal of what bolts and where to lift from? Also, afterwards, holding the engine to the engine stand , will just using the transmission bolts work?

thanks, and apologies for the simple questions.
-W-

 

[transparentdsm]

put a bolt through the chain and put it in one of the upper transmission bolt holes, wrap other end of chain around timing side motor mount and pull up.


you removed a lot more parts then most of us ever would for removing the motor and there are a ton of different ways to actually do it. when i pull mine i leave everything attached, including transmission.

 

[holycowman]

Thank you, that recommendation seems to coincide with this post, which is the only one I found with images that pointed or showed mount points when they pulled theirs.
click

I did see a few different posts with a quick 'do it' list to get it pulled, and I was intending to do the split engine / tranny to do the pull, but honestly after getting the tranny separated from the engine, I'll probably lean towards keeping the two assembled whence reinstalling them.

Side note,,,

This thing had a pretty toasty underhood fire, but supposedly, it was built, tranny - suspension - engine - etc., but who knows honestly until I validate those claims. If I ever do get to the point of doing some research on what number this thing was, (I'm sure the person had to of posted it to this forum). It's in the san francisco bay area, maybe that will help : )


Most parts I'll remake or alter, and mold from carbon, kevlar, innegra or some other in the 'spare' time, the entire front end, probably the rear end will get plasma cut and widened, really that depends on what the girl wants for a 'grocery getter' / 'track car' / toy yanker' (not hauler).. but this thing is a complete fat girl on the scales for the time being.

anyhow, thank you for the response, much appreciated.

 

[holycowman]

Got it out, not sure the points that I found would be best for reinstalling it w/ engine and tranny together, maybe there are better or more secure points to tie into.
Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[G]

Dang, you have your work cut out for you!

 

[thomcasey]

I have always used the upper Intake stud (transmission side) and one of the engine mount bolts above the PS pump

 

[iceman69510]

The throttle body support bracket and the triangle bracket right above the exhaust manifold/ps pump are the factory lift points.

 

[G]

Yep! What icey said. ^^

 

[holycowman]

Thanks fellas,
Appreciate the specific input.



Got it out and cleaned most of the 'char broiled' off. Got a ratchet on the crank bolt and it turns over without hiccups, so it thankfully seems the plastic cover melted onto the belt w/o losing the timing and causing at least 'carnage' damage. Shall see once it's apart though.

 

[G]

 

[thomcasey]

I never mention those points because they rarely exist on DSM/CSM/MMC's anymore. They have normally been removed long ago, lol.

 

[FlyingEagle]

2G exhaust manifold and stock length studs on 1G heads cause the issue of the front pickup point, and the cylinder head brace to the throttle body bracket, is always binned as people upgrade fuel rails, want to drop weight, etc. I still have the rear brace for fear of my Cyclone having long term issues.

Good on ya, for wanting to revive the old girl. I would say you can call it Patches, but there is a user here that may have issue with that. Purely in jest.

 

[tektic]

My cas is hard to adjust after using the throttle body bracket. It bent the studs i think. I used the tranny mount last time.

 

[holycowman]

I used similar 'pull' points as the pic that G posted here.
1) on the outermost of two holes alternator/power steering pump bracket?
And the second
2) on the top left transmission mount hole when facing the engine from the transmission side.
I used two grade 5 bolts (not grade 8) so if the load were exceeded they would bend, not break. Just a last second call, two minutes before the local hardware store closed.
Like I may have mentioned before, I know nothing of these cars, most anything I've picked up has been from 'voyeuring' various threads from mainly this forum.
Once again thanks fellas.

 

[holycowman]

I have done a couple of searches, but haven't found what I'm looking for,, wondering if anyone has a positive recommendation to a tubular front center crossmember 'kit'? I believe I've found the front '3 piece kit', but it doesn't include the one part that looks most beneficial to 'cleaning' up and being most beneficial under the front bonnet.
Thanks in advance.

 

[holycowman]

No front center cross member kits?

 

[Fish]

Is this what you're looking for?
click me

 

[holycowman]

No sir, thank you, although I did find that little 3 piece front kit, something more along the lines of a front center section, similar to - Front center cross member and tubular arms

 

[holycowman]

The front end was has a substantial amount of rust and corrosion from the fire and sitting in who knows what elements, so I attempted a first pass at cleanup. From the looks of the first pass test results I'd have to say I'm on track with getting the 'base' of it cleaned up. I didn't want to go heavy solvent and/or elbow grease as I'm a fat, old, lazy Californian transplant from Michigan at this point,, so I used a low ratio mix of food grade citric acid and denatured water in a spray bottle.

 

[holycowman]

Soaked a few pieces of paper towel with the mix and put them in some of the more heavily rust and corroded areas and let it set for a couple hours,, then pulled the towels off and simply wiped the area. It's a decent start, it would be nice if it were ready to be rinsed and sealed in a couple more passes.