New to this forum

[gvr41190]

Hi,

I've been a lurker on this forum for about a month since buying 1190/2000 and thought that I'd take a second to hi and thanks for this great collection of knowledge.

A while back I had a 2g GSX that I lightly modified, but after having kids it proved to be impractical, so I sold it. I've missed AWD and forced induction everyday since. I found 1190 for sale near me and decided that it was time for a project. Unfortunately the PO hacked at it pretty badly. When I got it, the compression was very low across the board (90-100), not to mention a laundry list of other dumb things.

So far, I've pulled the head to find a bad head gasket. Also, though I know it's not the accurate way to measure the piston to wall clearance, I was able to fit a .012 feeler gauge. This motor has 175k, so I guess the bottom needs some work. I'll probably have some questions as I get into this.... Thanks in advance for all of your help!


Steve

 

[toybreaker]

Welcome to the board!

Dont be so quick to write off that bottom end. The top land of the piston is ground undersize, so sticking a feeler gauage in there will show much more clearance than there is.

What kind of condition are the bores in?

 

[gvr41190]

Thanks for that info. Supposedly, the motor was rebuilt a couple of years and two owners ago, but the PO wasn't able to confirm this. The bores do have a good bit of cross hatch with only a few shiny spots, so maybe I am ok. Before pulling the head, I did a wet test and the numbers increased by only around 10%. Later this week, I plan on taking the head to a local machine shop to have them check it out.

Here's the list of mods that the car currently has:

balance shaft elim kit
Evo III 16g turbo
halman boost controller
AEM wideband o2
apexi safc
GM MAF with translator
ACT 2600# clutch
2g throttle body elbow
fmic w/ 2.5 piping
AEM fuel pressure regulator
walbro 255lph fuel pump re-wired
550cc injectors
pocket logger with mmcd v 1.8

I'd like to get rid of the piggy back fuel control and run ECMlink sometime soon. I'm not sure about keeping the GM MAF. Basically, I want to do what I can to make tuning as easy as possible.

The PO said that the transmission has been rebuilt with 1-2 double synchros and evo shift fork. The diff is welded. I plan on fixing that right away!

The power steering lines were cut and the pump was removed. I've got a manual rack to put in. I'm not sure if I'll like it, but it was way cheaper than buying a new pump and possibly a new PS rack. (I'm not sure how long the old rack was driven dry.)


That's about all I can think of currently. I'm definitely open to any comments or thoughts that anyone may have!

 

[toybreaker]

Sounds like you're doing your homework. It's a very good idea to inspect everything while it's apart.

Build it once, build it right. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Was the compression test done on a warm motor?

A ten percent increase on a cold motor isn't too scary, especially if the increase was the same accross all four cylinders. (For future reference, a leak down test on a warm motor will really help clear up the condition of the bottom end.)

Good luck with your build, we'll leave the light on for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[gvr41190]

Yeah, the engine was warm when I did the compression test.