More noob questions

So I am going through all the tutorial videos from ecmlink and have some questions.

What is "no lift to shift"?
What does fuel enrichment do as far as performance and longevity of the motor/turbo?
How do I setup and tune for 2-step?
How can I tell if something in the data log is not right?
Do I need a separate O2 sensor for the computer to use when data logging? Or is that info pulled from a stock O2 sensor?
Can boost levels be controlled with the link or is a boost controller still needed?

I'm assuming it is very easy to screw something up which would result in a catastrophic failure so I want to be as educated on this tuning software as possible so I don't grenade my car.

 

[yeti]

No lift to shift allows you to keep throttle pinned and bounce off.a set rev limiter two step has to be set up when you connect the wire for the NLTS,

You add fuel if your adding air (bigger turbo, boost )
You want to be as lean as possible without knocking as I understand

Just make sure your going into closed and open loop, arnt making out your injectors or MAF..

Also you buy a BC from ecmlink that you can control the Boost on each gear...

All of this is what I'm trying to explain while I've had a few to many and am on my phone drunk..also I could be wrong about every thing so wait for some one else to chime in

 

[gramkrakr89]

I think we have a PWI situation here, yeti... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

"no lift to shift" tells the ECU to cut fuel+ignition(?) while the clutch pedal is depressed, which facilitates shifting without needing to lift off of the gas pedal (hence "no-lift-to-shift)[DISCLAIMER... you should still use your clutch pedal to shift, though]

Enriching the air-fuel mixture increases the amount of fuel in a given air-fuel mixture (thereby lowering the A/F ratio). The "stoichiometric ratio" (fancy term for "all the fuel burns with all the air" for gasoline is 14.7:1 (1 part fuel for every 14.7 parts air). When tuning, you will likely aim for a ratio closer to 11:1 (rich) at wide open throttle, meaning you'll be using more fuel than can be theoretically burned in the combustion chamber. In short, running a richer air-fuel mixture keeps lots of bad things from happening to your engine in high-power, high-boost, high RPM situations...(careful not to flood the engine, though)

I've never "tuned" a 2-step launch limiter, but it limits the RPM that your engine will turn while your car is stopped. When your car begins to move, your top rev limiter is re-activated. (hence the name 2-step, since the first step is the launch limiter, then to your top rev limiter after you come off the line)

It takes some basic knowledge of where things should be to know if something in your log is not right. Getting a feel for what is right and wrong should come from watching someone who knows how to tune ECMlink first, then by trying it yourself only when you have the confidence that you're doing it right.

The stock O2 sensor only tells the ECU wether it is running ABOVE or BELOW the target 14.7:1 A/F ratio in closed-loop control mode. To log the actual measured A/F ratio, you will need a wideband sensor and driver (like an Innovate LC-1 system) to connect to a loggable input on your ECU... There are some pretty useful things you can do with an LC-1 wideband system in ECMlink, but that would take a while to explain...

ECMlink does now include a boost-by-gear boost control system that is based on the factory boost control logic... for a beginner, I would recommend getting a manual boost controller, since it will be MUCH easier to tune not having to worry about fancy-schmancy pulse-width regulated boost control...

ECMlink is a blessing in that the ECU won't purposefully do anything to make the engine explode unless you tell it to... get a feel for how things should be by watching an experienced user (if possible). A good way to learn is to change your engine setup one thing at a time, and then learning how that one thing changes how ECMlink needs to be tuned. Re-Tuning your setup every time you change 1 thing at a time is good practice and eliminates the "shotgun effect" multiple modifications at the same time can have for beginners... by changing 1 thing at a time, and getting it to work, it is much easier to find problems and mistakes, and just plain makes life easier.

I hope I didn't put you to sleep (almost dozed a few times myself there), and I hoped these answers helped you

EDIT: holy punctuation, batman!

 

[Brunoboy]

i have ecmlinks boost by gear solenoid, and I cannot use it because I dont have a MAP sensor to make tuning easier. Without the sensor you are shooting in the dark for a desired boost level. Right now I am using a Homemade MBC which is working fine.
-Shane

 

[yeti]

Whats pwi?

But I figured I wasn't gonna have the best explanation on the block or the right one.

 

[Brunoboy]

Post worth Info???? lol

 

[gramkrakr89]

"Posting While Intoxicated" - wasn't knocking the content of your post

 

[broxma]

To add more non-intoxicated info, you can tune a 2-step, sort of. If you have the stationary rev limiter set at say 5500 RPM, start your logging software and find the load you are at when you are at that RPM, bouncing the launch control. You can cut timing at that load point. Cutting timing increases the EGT a great deal so the turbo will spool at the line. That specific load/RPM point is out of the trace for any normal operation and would only ever be active under that one specific instance, stationary revving at 5500 for example. No driving condition would ever get the ECU into those cells on the map. Even at cruise at that RPM, you would have more load than the stationary load by a wide margin and when you plot it on the map you will see how far out of the map trace it actually is, basically, bottom left, low load, high RPM.

Or, get an ECU which allows gear based boost control with specific fuel and timing launch maps. Which coincidentally, the Evo ECU has all of.

/brox

 

[gramkrakr89]

ECMlink's "anti-lag" simulates that function, but it just applies a global timing adjustment+fuel enrichment while the car is in "launch" state (I'm pretty sure) and reapplies the map after you've launched...

Having a separate map (or section of your operational map) for launching sounds more tunable and reliable, though.

Gear+rpm based boost control looks a little difficult to dial in, depending on your turbo and boost targets - haven't really tried it yet, though... I figure for a lesser experienced person such as myself, an MBC works just fine with a lot less hassle.

Learning to use all of the tools and functions available does make one a more versatile tuner

 

Also, can idle hunt be eliminated through ecmlink? If not how can idle hunt be eliminated?

 

[spooledyou]

no lift shift is full throttle shift you need to set a rev limit of 7500 keep it safe and most important you need a wideband man tune your air/fuel 10.8 or 10.9 as far as pump gas and 11.1 for 110oct dont go lean start at a low boost setting with a controller and enrich fuel as needed wideband tells all man and as far as knock wen you get to higher boost levels 15+psi then go back and check knock as you tune

 

I'm gonna switch the topic of ecmlink to gaskets. I recieved my gasket kit from modernautomotive.com and there are some gaskets that are for the non-turbo 4G63. Is this still useable on the 4G63T blocks? I'm thinking the kit won't work. The half-moon is the only piece that is different in the kit.