Let's talk suspension settings camber and toe

[onesickcrx]

I want to get my Galant's suspension setup the best it can be, with that said what kind of camber and toe settings are you all running?
Lets get a outline too help me as well as others in the future.Say something like this...

:EXAMPLE:


Daily driver = stock camber and toe

Aggressive daily = 1.2 degrees negative camber stock toe

Weekend car = 1.8 degrees negative camber .5 degree of extra toe

Road race setup = 2.3 degrees negative camber .8 degree extra toe



We could list what suspension parts we having installed and how it rides.

:EXAMPLE:

2 degrees of negative camber and stock toe front
1.2 degrees of negative camber and stock toe rear

D2 Coil overs
front and rear Strut bars
Subframe/Mustache bushing kit
Jay racing active rear toe eliminator
Pina chromoly rear camber arm
White line front 22 sway bar
White line rear 26mm sway bar
235/45/17 BFG T/A KDW

Ride is good for weekend car. Performs great in the turns but it eats tires up a little

 

[gtluke]

I cheated and added 5deg of caster, I run about 1.5deg of camber. Toe is as close to 0 as I could get without a rack.

 

[KT]

What Luke said.

I would keep toe at zero or as close as possible but error to the neg side if you have to. Any amount of toe will cause accelerated wear of your tires. Get as much caster as possible in the front so the car will return to straight easier. I think Wopper has a -1.5 degree camber setup for daily driving and has had success with that setting.

Optimally, you would have different setups for every RR course.

 

[grocery_getter]

For a street use, I always do 1.5 deg neg camber front, 1 deg neg camber rear, and zero toe on all 4. I set caster at 2.8 deg positive with the help of the Whiteline caster bushing.

For autocross use, I use up to 3.5 deg neg camber front, up to 2 deg neg camber rear, and .5 deg total toe out front and zero to .25 total toe in rear. Not with street tires.

As always you need feedback to get the best setting for your own car since everything is relative to tire size, tire sidewall stiffness, suspension stiffness, spring rate, bushing compliance, track surface, etc... Just as tuning a car you need a datalogger, when tuning suspension you need a pyrometer to tell you whether the tire heats up evenly and to nail the correct alignment setting for a particular combo. Often one autocross location will favor different alignment setting than other autocross location, same with track. It is all relative, you need experience to know what you have and which track you are going to to be able to predict what alignment setting will be best for that particular combo that day. Start with a street setting, go autocross and bring a pyrometer. Its a learning experience.

 

[onesickcrx]

Good info keep it comming

 

[turbowop]

Quoting KT:
I think Wopper has a -1.5 degree camber setup for daily driving and has had success with that setting.





1051's camber up front is set at -2.4 degrees. The rear is around -1.1 degrees or so if I remember correctly. Up to around -2.5 degrees negative shouldn't cause any tire wear issues. It's the toe settings that wear out tires, so keeping toe as close to zero as possible is the best bet, IMO.

Also, 1051 is just a weekend car, for what it's worth.

 

[alik]

despite the wealth of information (thank you, btw) in the previous post, I must disagree.

Granted, my knowledge comes from a much different car, Miata, but, I wonder how much different it all is.
Front toe-in will results in a predictable, albeit somewhat understeery car. Front toe-out results in much quicker turn-in (all the autox'ers increase their toe out upon getting to the course in the street car), but, results in a very darty car on the straightaway. Much tramlining.
Rear toe out is simply not recommended, as the rear will "walk" all over the place. Toe-in in the rear helps with the turn in and mid-corner rotation.

 

[grocery_getter]

I agree with Alik. I am following you all the way till you get to the toe. I think you have it mixed up. You want toe out on the front to make turn in easier. Toe in is for good straight line stability at high speed. Rear toe in help with the rear following thru the front in a turn. A rear toe out is going to make that ass end uncontrollable. This is all for aggresive driving off course. For daily car, I still set all 4 toe to 0.