let me know what im forgeting

[mountaineerjeff]

well this is my first full rebuild that I have done by myself on my own mitsu.

I tore the motor down to the block and rotating assembly. cleaned the block deck, the oil pump surface, and the oil pan surface. I put in the BSE with new bearings. made sure the head was nice and clean then put it back on with a composite head gasket. ran ARPs hand tight into the block, set the washers in the head, then set the head down. then I torqued it inside-out 30-60-90. then I went back through at 93 to make sure the were all completely even. ARP lube was used on the studs as well. then we pulled all the old exhaust mani studs and replaced them with new ones from FP with a little bit of locktight. the intake was also bolted on. thats all the physical work I got done lst night.

I have my new front case gasket, new OFH gasket, gates racing belt all waiting to go on. I am planning on just running down to the hardware store and getting some nice allen head bolts for the oil pan. and also just running 4 of my old mitsu turbo bolts.

Is there anything im forgetting before I button this on up? anyone have any problems dropping the motor+trans with both manifolds attached? the exhaust isnt a big deal, but I dont want to have to mess with the intake. anyone pull the intake studs and replace with bolts? figured it would make changing the intake harder right?

 

[broxma]

I have studs in every position on my intake, went away from bolts. I would leave the exhaust off if you're going to swing it back in. For that matter, leave the intake off and free up the front/back room. Neither is especially hard to put on with the motor in the car.

/brox

 

[mountaineerjeff]

well I just dont have the time/access to go all studs on the intake right now. I wasnt sure how it would be with firewall clearance. as far as clearance with the manis. Im just always worried about making sure I can get the torqued down well enough, which isnt an issue on an engine stand.

without accessories, or rad in the car im hoping the intake doesnt get in my way. if it does Ill just pull it. I was just trying to refrain fro having a futre boost leak at the head.

 

[gramkrakr89]

please put both manifolds back on while the engine is still out of the car...

 

[Barnes]

What gramkrakr89 said. There is no reason to leave the manifolds off before putting the engine back in. Especially the intake manifold. That thing is a royal pain to install/uninstall unless your car lacks A/C and you are using a SMIM.

 

[gramkrakr89]

^^this
if you're putting the engine back in properly, you'll have plenty of room for fitting

EDIT: (remember, plenty in mitsu-speak means "just enough" when referring to clearances /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

 

[mountaineerjeff]

see thats exactly what I was thinking. but then I get answers like the first, and second guess myself.

 

[mikus]

I've never picked the engine/trans combo, but the stock intake mani is simple to take off/on while in the bay. SMIM even moreso.

I'd go with whatever way makes more sense for your situation. We're just the internet after all.

 

[joec]

Quoting mountaineerjeff:
I am planning on just running down to the hardware store and getting some nice allen head bolts for the oil pan?



Don't forget that several of them are shorter than the others and if you put them in the wrong place they will rub against the timing belt!

 

[dammitjim]

^^^ +eleventybillion

I ground those two down a little as payback for the beating the wrong bolt put on my timing belt.

 

[boostedinaz]

I have always pulled/installed the engine with both manifolds on. Unless you are swinging the motor all over the place in the engine bay (you have reason to) then you will have a ton of space even with the radiator in and even more so with it out.