install arp head studs w/o removing cyl. head

[moneypit]

I know the proper way is to unbolt from the outer in a circular pattern to the middle of the head to remove and vice versa when installing the head to prevent head warpage. I don't need to replace my head gaskets. Any thoughts on replacing the head bolts with arp's one at a time starting from the middle head bolt?

 

[AnotherNewb]

Some people can get away with doing them like that, some people can't. It's 50/50 if you ask me. I don't recommend it personally.

 

[LordAthey]

I prefer to do it while the head is off but that way I make sure the studs are in the block

 

[moneypit]

Yeah I know. I've installed arp head studs while replacing a head gasket. I cleaned out the bolt holes in the block with a tap just to be sure. I'm probably not gonna risk it. Would just like to up the boost on the evo3 16g. Currently running 18 psi.

 

[turbowop]

Go ahead and up the boost. As long as it's tuned properly, you aren't going to hurt the stock headgasket and head bolts.

 

[cupajoe]

I agree with turbowop, but if you still want to install the ARP knock your self out. You can do it without pulling the head, you just need to do it one at a time, and clean out the stud whole really well before installing stud. I did it this way and ran 27psi on the original headgasket, then again the tune it important. But even if it doesn't work whats the worst you have to do? Pull and head and install them, so why not give it a shot?

 

[Jason G.]

Quoting turbowop:
Go ahead and up the boost. As long as it's tuned properly, you aren't going to hurt the stock headgasket and head bolts.



+1

 

[moneypit]

I was under the impression that stock head bolt were only capable of low 20's psi.

 

[JNR]

When it comes to the headgasket (n/a or esp. using compressor), I would not risk taking them out one at a time, or even removing them and using the same gasket, as it forms a memory and wouldn't want to risk it...you may be alright, you may not, just saying that is not a good idea to remove/loosen just one fastener in a pattern (say like a diff gasket), although sure it *can* be done.

I'm sure you'd be alright on the stock hardware if it's already there and torqued properly...If you were going to be pulling the head anyway and doing a new gasket, then I'd recommend some ARP let's say, as I personally would not re-use the hardware (too many heat cycles, stretching, etc.) and don't think the oem's are torque to yield (those you def. need to replace)...

As typical here, we'll be sure to hear the "well, I've done it and it works", but simply pointing out what are good, professional practices.

 

[LordAthey]

I thought that the oem bolts were TTY.

 

[Barnes]

The 6-bolt OEM bolts are torqued like normal. The 7-bolt OEM bolts are torque to yield.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting moneypit:
I was under the impression that stock head bolt were only capable of low 20's psi.



Boost pressure isn't what kills headgaskets. Excessive cylinder pressure is. And that's caused by poor tuning...or ridiculous amounts of power, which you won't be seeing with a 16g.

 

[moneypit]

What's considered a "good tune"? I'm running SAFC w/ keydiver chip & 650cc. A/F ratio is 11.5- 12.0, 92 octane, 50/ 50 methanol/ water, stock timing, no knock. Am I overlooking anything?

 

[Street Surgeon]

I pulled some regular ARP headstuds, and then replaced 'em with the ARP L19's one by one. You simply untorque them in sequence (the opposite of the tq down sequence), then as you remove one you put one in it's place and snug the nut down. Once they're all in and snugged, you retorque them all in sequence and there you go, it's easy.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting moneypit:
What's considered a "good tune"?



One that isn't causing any detonation. Good A/F and timing levels. Sounds like your car is just fine. Turn up the boost and watch your logs for knock.

 

[TRBODSM]

I've replaced stock head bolts with arp's and I start with the center out one by one. I do the install torque sequence one by one and torque it to spec when it gets installed.

I wouldn't snug them up and torque all at once since that might cause head gasket failure. Why not just take all bolts out and install arp's all at once with head still on if that was the case???? Not trying to rail on Street Surgeon but one by one and torquing them as you go seems more reasonable since the one by one method is done to have the rest of the bolts/studs hold the cylinder head down so it doesn't lift causing the headgasket failure.

Just my $0.02