Terry Posten
Well-known member
This a quick tutorial without pics. They are just not needed.
1 - Jack up front of the car and support as high as you can with jack stands.
2 - Remove both front wheels.
3 - Remove the top sway bar link nuts and pivot links out of the way.
4 - Remove both lower engine cradle brackets and gusset plate.
5 - Remove exhaust down pipe.
6 - Remove transfer case.
7 - Remove the 2 sway bar brackets (one bolt holds each onto the steering rack sub-frame).
8 - Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
9 - Laying on your back under the car, slide the bar over to the right (passenger side) allowing the right end to come up behind the caliper. Once you have it as far over as it will go, go to the left end of the bar and drop it down. It will just squeeze by the left lower control arm. It is a very tight fit.
10 - Reverse the steps. The hardest part is getting the new larger bar to slide back up between the left lower control arm and the steering sub frame.
Tip #1 - Do not use the sway bar end links to hold the bar in place while you try and install the two brackets back up onto the steering sub frame. It puts tension on the bar and you will never get the brackets to seat into the slot in the frame and get the bolt to line up and start.
Tip #2 - On step #9 above, do this yourself. If you have two people pulling on the bar, someone will end up with smashed fingers (it really does hurt quite badly).
Tip #3 - Before you reassemble any of the bolts back into the car (from all 3 cradle support bars/braces and sway bar brackets), use a wire wheel and clean all the threads. They will be rusty and cleaning them will help insure that you don't cross thread them or break them from getting stuck with rust.
This job took me about 3.5 hours with the help of air tools. But, I took my time cleaning all the brackets and bolts before re-assembly and my exhaust down pipe has "V" band fittings. You may want to give yourself 4-5 hours of working time just to be safe.
Good luck.
1 - Jack up front of the car and support as high as you can with jack stands.
2 - Remove both front wheels.
3 - Remove the top sway bar link nuts and pivot links out of the way.
4 - Remove both lower engine cradle brackets and gusset plate.
5 - Remove exhaust down pipe.
6 - Remove transfer case.
7 - Remove the 2 sway bar brackets (one bolt holds each onto the steering rack sub-frame).
8 - Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
9 - Laying on your back under the car, slide the bar over to the right (passenger side) allowing the right end to come up behind the caliper. Once you have it as far over as it will go, go to the left end of the bar and drop it down. It will just squeeze by the left lower control arm. It is a very tight fit.
10 - Reverse the steps. The hardest part is getting the new larger bar to slide back up between the left lower control arm and the steering sub frame.
Tip #1 - Do not use the sway bar end links to hold the bar in place while you try and install the two brackets back up onto the steering sub frame. It puts tension on the bar and you will never get the brackets to seat into the slot in the frame and get the bolt to line up and start.
Tip #2 - On step #9 above, do this yourself. If you have two people pulling on the bar, someone will end up with smashed fingers (it really does hurt quite badly).
Tip #3 - Before you reassemble any of the bolts back into the car (from all 3 cradle support bars/braces and sway bar brackets), use a wire wheel and clean all the threads. They will be rusty and cleaning them will help insure that you don't cross thread them or break them from getting stuck with rust.
This job took me about 3.5 hours with the help of air tools. But, I took my time cleaning all the brackets and bolts before re-assembly and my exhaust down pipe has "V" band fittings. You may want to give yourself 4-5 hours of working time just to be safe.
Good luck.
