I have a 95 elantra I swapped a 4g63t cyclone motor into, I got the motor from a JDM shop and it didn't come with the maf. I looked up the ecu number MD150427 witch gave me the 1990 galant vr4 Japan version but I seem to cant find what stock 1g mass air flow comes on it. Does anyone know?
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Galant vr4 mass air flow?
- Thread starter oities
- Start date
EMX5636
Well-known member
They should be the same overall. I'm pretty sure some of the JDM ones have the bypass screw backed out flush already, we US guys have to do that "mod".
FlyingEagle
Staff member
tektic
Well-known member
You won't notice a difference between a 1g and usdm vr4 maf. But the are different and the code in the computer is different for each.
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tektic
Well-known member
JDM ecus have different pin outs. That's going to be your biggest issue if yor not using a JDM harness. I have no idea what size injectors that ecu is programmed for so look in to that. The maf is likely the least of your troubble.
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How do you know if its a JDM one or just a regular Dsm. I'm trying to get the original maf cause with the 609 maf I need to get a tune an 550cc injectors, I have the 609 2g maf on it now. The car won't rev. Over 2500 and also won't build over 3 to 4 pounds of boost But runs an idles fine.
tektic
Well-known member
Does it have an eprom?
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Posted by RedTwo:
Quote:
"MD150427 Is from a pre face lift (pre vents) VR4 or VR4 RS produced between 1-10-1989 and 3-07-1990. Essentially the same parts as the earlier 450cc, TD05H-14B cars.
The AFM/MAF is the same as all US VR4, TPS is the same as the US90 VR4, but the CAS doesn't have a corresponding US part number. ISC is a bit funny as Mitsubishi seem to have replaced all 4G6X ISC units in ASA with a generic part?!?
What is being translated here would be this:
Use a 1G Talon/Eclipse/Eagle MAF
Make sure you have a 14b turbo by reading the numbers on the aluminum case half.
Make sure you have 450cc blue top injectors.
Rewire back to a stock MAF plug configuration per "www.VFAQ.com"
You will then have a HZ signal in the correct range, from the MAF to the ECU for idle and running stock boost.
Get the car running with all stock components, forget the word "tune", and roll down your sleeves because you are now done the hard part.
Drive the car for a while, at least one full oil change worth, and contemplate all the time in life you now have back.
Complete all the basic maintenance for your fluids and timing belt and related components - lots of that stuff located here in the GVR4 writeup for new owners.
I realize this is installed in a J1 Elantra body, but it's all the same stuff in the motor.
Consider modifications after you have gotten this far, start to learn the basic tuning process and move forward.
I hope all the advice I have given is correct, because the guys here drill it into our heads; and with good reason.
We have seen the corner cutters, and way laid projects as a result.
We want you to succeed and therefore have to give some rather particular advice.
It's all in the spirit of vehicular comradery!
Quote:
"MD150427 Is from a pre face lift (pre vents) VR4 or VR4 RS produced between 1-10-1989 and 3-07-1990. Essentially the same parts as the earlier 450cc, TD05H-14B cars.
The AFM/MAF is the same as all US VR4, TPS is the same as the US90 VR4, but the CAS doesn't have a corresponding US part number. ISC is a bit funny as Mitsubishi seem to have replaced all 4G6X ISC units in ASA with a generic part?!?
What is being translated here would be this:
Use a 1G Talon/Eclipse/Eagle MAF
Make sure you have a 14b turbo by reading the numbers on the aluminum case half.
Make sure you have 450cc blue top injectors.
Rewire back to a stock MAF plug configuration per "www.VFAQ.com"
You will then have a HZ signal in the correct range, from the MAF to the ECU for idle and running stock boost.
Get the car running with all stock components, forget the word "tune", and roll down your sleeves because you are now done the hard part.
Drive the car for a while, at least one full oil change worth, and contemplate all the time in life you now have back.
Complete all the basic maintenance for your fluids and timing belt and related components - lots of that stuff located here in the GVR4 writeup for new owners.
I realize this is installed in a J1 Elantra body, but it's all the same stuff in the motor.
Consider modifications after you have gotten this far, start to learn the basic tuning process and move forward.
I hope all the advice I have given is correct, because the guys here drill it into our heads; and with good reason.
We have seen the corner cutters, and way laid projects as a result.
We want you to succeed and therefore have to give some rather particular advice.
It's all in the spirit of vehicular comradery!
I put the 1g maf back in the car then took out my after market fuel pressure regulator and put the stock one back on the engine. When I try to build boost then let it idle the car starts running really rich, it starts fluttering when u give it gas again plus idle goes way down to like 400 don't know why?
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Fluttering like a duck call when coming off the gas while rolling?
Are you trying to brake boost or are you driving forward and acquiring boost the natural way?
Need a little more info to move forward.
Do you have blue top injectors?
Are you trying to brake boost or are you driving forward and acquiring boost the natural way?
Need a little more info to move forward.
Do you have blue top injectors?
Haha ok so when I first start it the car runs idles fine and doesn't run rich, Once I give it gas to build some boost and the bov vents to atmosphere the car goes nuts running rich an drops rpms. Is it because of the bov venting to the atmosphere an not recerculating into the intake? The car is parked sitting.
prove_it
Well-known member
Yes, very very much yes. Do not vent to atmosphere unless your running speed density.
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thomcasey
Well-known member
Yes. These cars are factory setup for recirculation. You need to recirculate that vented air to just after the MAF (between the MAF and Turbo inlet).
