Engine ReBuild

Well since I now know the fluid my car is leaking is motor oil I want to rip out the engine and do a rebuild. I'm not 100% on how to remove the 4G63T motor but from what I can tell it shouldn't be that bad; disconnect the intake/exhaust/driveshaft/wire harnesses, drain all coolant, hook up engine hoist, and unbolt motor mounts. I hope that's all there is and if there is any order of removal that would make the process more efficient and any advice is appreciated.

 

[AnotherNewb]

Uh... you missed a few steps. Here are some highlights, by no means a write up.

Drain everything.
Start pulling harness and hoses, scotch tape and a marker are you friend when it comes time to reassemble
Pop the axles loose, passenger side can be left bolted to the knuckle if you pop it off on the way out. Drivers side, pop the ball joint or strut loose, can be left in.
drop the t case
Drop the exhaust
pull the radiator and fans
Unbolt the ps pump and flop it to the side
Unholy the ac pump if its there and flop it to the fire wall
Connect hoist in a way that the drivers side will be lifter higherthan the trans side
Unbolt motor mounts start lifting. Go a fewinches and check for anything you may have forgotten to unhook, like the ground from the trans to the body. Go slow and watchout fpr the cruise control box if its still there

 

Right, the usual basic stuff to be done before hooking up the cherry picker. The chilton repair manual is the very first item I'm buying to see what exactly I'm getting into. Since I am doing a rebuild I am considering replacing the internals of the engine. What websites do you guys reccomend for parts for our car? I've used Modern Automotive Performance with no problem but I would like to find the best price for forged parts.

 

[AnotherNewb]

Chiltons are of little help. Most of the information they have are abriviated and can easily be found with google. If your going to buy a manual, get the factory one.

 

Okay so here's what's up. When the engine is out this will give me a better vantage to locate where the leak(s) are. I am hoping that it's just abut time that the gaskets need to be repacced. If this is the case where are the best places for a comlete engine gasket rebuild kit. Quality is my main concern because I don't want any more damn leaks!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif!!! I have the tools neccessary to begin removing the motor and will start sometime this week. Any key areas on the engine I need to keep an eye out for? I noticed that there is some oil dripping off the cam shaft sensor. Is this something that can be re-gasketed or replaced? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Thanks

 

[mpt72]

There's a rubber o ring type deal that goes on the end of the sensor.

 

What's a suiteable replacement? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I hear that those o-rings are difficult to find.

 

[GVR4ZUM]

JNZTuning should have it, great guys to deal with. Just give them a call.
web page

 

All I have left is the front axles, exhaust and t-case to disconnect. I found a hidden egg with the fuse box being located under the under the fender panel, but one of the cable from the box is 6ft long. Is this the same on every GVR4? I've been considering removing all the parts in the engine bay to sand blast and repaint. And advice?

 

[Chad989of2000]

You should think about taking off your exhaust mani/turbo prior to removal. Gives you some more wiggle room and since you're in a gasket replacing mood, there are some good ones to replace on those parts.

 

Yea, once I started to peel some parts away I saw where the major leak originated, behind the motor block. I know the oil return line needs attention and other parts of the engine. I talked to my buddy and he told me the easier way to remove the axles is to remove the hubs, rotor, and calipers/brake parts. My question is what is the easiest way to take out the axles? I know they just sit in the transmission and slide out via splines but what is the best method of pulling the axles? I'm sorry but I searched all over and couldn't find much.

 

[Diego]

This is what I do.

I start on the passenger side and undo the 2 16mm on the suspension and pull it out as the same as it looks.(helps to turn the wheels a bit)

Then the ds side, same thing just remember their is 2 bolts (12mm?) on the carrier bearing shaft and then the 2 bolts on the suspension and pull it out.

Plus its a perfect time to replace the boots on your CV shafts as they tend to tear/rip with age and driving if they are to beat up.

My .02

-Diego

 

Much appreciated help guys. I already had the cv axles replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt since it was flingin grease everywhere. I am almost temped to do a full rebuild including internals if I'm going this far into the motor. I already priced out Eagle forged rods, ACL main/rod bearings, JE piston rings and Manley forged pistons. Not sure if a new crank would be necessary since there's 107k on it, might just need machining and balancing.

EDIT: Would the thermal coating on the bearings/pistons/connecting rods be worth the extra money? I am looking for durability and reliability out of this build to up the boost a bit. Also how can I judge what compression ratio best suits my needs?

 

coated pistons are good if you plan on running high octane/meth/c16

 

[donkeylips]

I just put in axles today and after years of doing it many times the easiest way is this:
Crack nut loose while on the ground if wheels allow for it
Raise front end and turn steering wheel to side opposite you're working on.
-Remove 2 strut to knuckle bolts
-Remove bolt/nut that hold the brake line bracket and ABS sensor wire bracket if you have it
You should be able to maneuver it out fairly easily that way.

Just don't let it sit like that for long because its seems that you can over-extend your strut and probably mess up your lower ball joint. So as soon as I get the axle out I always put those two bolts right back in. Also makes it easier to not lose anything.

The biggest challenge is popping the passenger side axle in and out with its c-clip.
Driver's side is easiest to remove the 2 bolts and slide it out without worrying about clips.

And another point to make is that you should not lower the vehicle back down on to the ground without the axle in place because it is not good for the wheel bearings. If you can get a spare CV shaft I like to cut the ends off and use them to put in there so the car can be rolled around without the entire axle clanking around in there. You can also use the other side to plug the transmission so you don't lose all of your fluid.

 

Axles are out. I am picking up a cherry picker and stand tomorrow to keep going. Got bored and started to clean up the brake calipers and painted them red. I think they'll look good and better when I can afford some rims. I have a question about connecting rods. What style is the most reliable? I-Beam, H-Beam, or A-Beam rods. I am still set on the Eagle H-Beam rods unless there is something better for the price.

EDIT: I also want to know what tools are best for this car. An air impact set is on the top of my list as well as a torque wrench. Not sure if there are torx bit fasteners or what. Might be picking up a feeler gauge to check the head for warpage and mics/telescopic mics for the piston/cylinder tolerances.

 

Anyone know the factory nut/bolt torque specs and cylinder specs for the engine?

 

[alansupra94]

You know there is a engine manual in PDF form downloadable correct?

 

[joec]

This might help:

http://www.vfaq.com

Specificially there is a link to http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/engineremovala.html

 

I also have a Cyclone intake manifold I'm planning to swap out with the stock mani. What is the difference between the two as far as performance?