ECM Link question

I've been going back and fourth on weather or not I should ditch the Keydriver chip in 1886 for an ECM Link v3. The Keydriver is a stage 3 chip from what I've been told. The only thing holding me back is what to get with the ECM Link or to better put it, I don't know what to do before clicking "ADD TO CART"

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I know the injector size (ND 660cc), 1886 has a 2g maf, I just don't know much on the other options listed. Sorry if I sound like a noob but when it comes to ecu's I'm not exactly the most knowledgeable.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Well, you've already got a socketed ECU if you've got the KD chip so you don't need that, so your options will probably look something like

ecu: 1g
inj: ND660
maf: 2g
maf cable: No (not needed unless you want to switch to blow through GM MAF)
Desired username: R34P3R62
Socket Service: No

The one thing that you need to consider is that while there will be some baseline values, ECMLink isn't really a drop in and leave it at the defaults kind of solution, it really needs proper tuning. If that's not something that you know and are familiar with, you're going to either need to learn (sometimes with expensive mistakes) or pay someone to tune the car.

 

[Brunoboy]

go to ecmlink.com and read the wiki's, watch the how to's, until I watched the demos I didnt know how easy it was to tune with v3. Check it out before your purchase.
-Shane

 

[cheekychimp]

Also be aware that the whole point of something like ECMLink is that it is adjustable for future upgrades in your setup. Although you are being asked to choose those default values which will be 'preset' if you like when you install the chip, it doesn't really matter if you choose the wrong one because once you plug it in you can change them.

Find out you actually have 750 cc injectors, not an issue, just go to the drop down menu and alter 660 to 750. Find you actually have a 3G MAS, not a problem, go to the drop down menu and change 2G MAS to 3G MAS etc.

It will require some tuning as stated but with your Keydiver chip you are pretty much locked into your current setup indefinitely or at very least, you will need to get a new chip burned each time you change a critical part in your configuration.

 

Thanks for the help guys, a lot of confusion was cleared up. My plans are to have MAC Autosports tune 1886 after the ECM Link is installed (along with a COP system and amplifier) to get the full potential out of the current setup until something goes. Tuning is deff one of the items on top of my list to learn but for now I'll leave it to the tuning experts; I'll stick to rebuilding engines, differentials, pretty much anything that does not have any electronics /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[mikus]

Jeff isn't taking any new customers anymore, so you def. chose right

 

[BoostedAWD91]

I am running V3 and absolutly love it! My car has never ran so good

 

My only one gripe with the ecmtuning is the teeth on the chip. They are very thin and bend easily. The keydiver and old tmo chip's teeth are very stout in comparison. Other than that everything else was very impressive.

 

[beaner]

If you can rebuild engines and diffs, then you can tune a car with dsmlink. I'm constantly playing with it on my laptop, it's fun. Just watch and understand the tutorials, after that it's really just going one small step at a time and using the forum for all questions. I'm sure flashed eproms will keep the car from blowing up, but I don't see how it can be as good... assuming you have a decent grasp on what you're doing with dsmlink.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

i agree ^^^ The first time using it after i installed it on my laptop, it was alittle overwhelming at first but their tutorials and forum make things 100x easier to understand. I havent really messed to much with the real tuning aspects of it yet but im hoping to learn alot more this summer.

 

Note to people who will use the bung provided with the ecmtuning kit (and you should use the bung so you can be sure to get a good seal so you don't have any vacuum leaks).

If you look close at the bung there is a flat side and there is a side that is tapered as it threads in. When you weld the bung on your IC pipe or your intake manifold you want the flat side down. Repeat you will weld the flat side to your surface and keep the tapered side up to screw the sensor in.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[AnotherNewb]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gifsounds like someone learned the hard way...