DSMLINK TUNE

[sy1100]

Ok so I pick up a dsmlink V3 for a 1g with a freshly socketed and capped ecu, speed density hardware, and a gm maf setup. I want to get this installed on the galant but since the previous owner modified the ecu to his setup, I have no way of running it till I can get a galant factory tune. Does anyone here have log of the factory galant ecu settings? So I can plug-in and retune the ecu from the previous owners modded settings to factory galant vr4 settings.

 

[EROCK970]

When you go in the ecu with ecmlink. You can Chang everything to the way u want it.

 

[sy1100]

I know this, but I have to reference to work from to change it.

 

[CutlassJim]

I'm assuming you have no idea how DSMLink works. Watch some video's online before you futz with stuff. Almost everything in link is a plus or minus off the stock values.

 

[EROCK970]

Ya like this guy said go on there sit they have videos on how to do things

 

[cheekychimp]

Sy,

Once you have the ECU in the car and your laptop setup to see it, there should be a drop down menu that tells you what settings file you are currently running on. This feature allows you to save your settings. I'm pretty sure you can just delete the current settings file and get back to default which should be a 1G stock setup. If not, there are a lot of settings with a drop down menu as previously stated where you can just change to 1G etc (i.e the MAF). Are you on stock injectors? Because if not you will probably have to play with those settings anyway.

Do you have any idea what setup the other guy had? And what set up do you have? It's easier to help when we have more information.

Paul.

 

[sy1100]

Paul that's the type of info I was lookin Yes my car is totally stock. I do have the other guys set up just not on hand. Ill post up that info when I get off feom work tonight.

 

[cheekychimp]

Sy,

If your car is completely stock, you should be golden. Just make sure that you find and delete the previous owners modified settings file and the chip should revert to stock settings. In any event, unless the previous owner was running a stroker or higher compression setup (different timing advance) you should be able to get to a base tune (at least to start the car) by setting the MAF to 1G and the injectors to 450cc. You would be advised to check that both really are stock however as a 2G MAF and 550-560cc injectors is a budget upgrade for these cars.

After that (and assuming the car idles okay) check the Wiki to set your fuel trims.

Paul.

 

[prove_it]

Like he said. Just go through every tab and set everything to stock. Also make sure you go into the direct access and change all those tabs to stock settings. The GVR4 uses all that same settings as a 1G, there is no difference. If your still unsure shoot me a PM and I can send you saved settings for a bone stock car. Be sure to read up on ECMLINKs website. There is more than enough info on there that will show you via video and multiple articles.

Start here:
Skim through these article to get a basic understanding.
ECMLINK knowledge base

Then view these to see it in action:

Demo Videos

Is there any reason your spending the money for this on a stock car? Not trying to burn, but I'm curious.

 

[Number996]

Use that first link prove_it gave you!! I use ECMLink wiki like i'm paid to. Their forum is also great, and if you email Tom and ECMLink he's more than friendly and ready to help with questions, comments, and concerns.

Some general input to help you get started with link;

I would run 2g MAF or SD, GM MAF is used by my friends and their 1g's for some serious straight line racing.

Link has pre-settings for MAF Type/SD and size injectors, make sure you have the correct air intake measurement and injectors size selected or you're going to have a bad time.

Start with a base tune with all you sliders zeroed out.

GET A WIDEBAND.

If you have a wideband and wire in through your FrontO2 input for logging, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SENSOR TYPE SELECTED BEFORE RUNNING NARROW BAND O2 SIMMULATION

LOG EVERYTHING!

and have fun

 

[sy1100]

Thanks for the info/help, I just wanted to get this situated so I can put the 399 evo maf, and I wanted the ecu set right so I can take my ecu and have it cleaned up, and still drive the car with no down time. Now Im just waiting on the harness from iceman so I can plug it in and get started.

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting prove_it:
Is there any reason your spending the money for this on a stock car? Not trying to burn, but I'm curious.



I can see what you are saying here prove_it but I personally think there is a lot to be said for stumping up the cash for ECMLink right out of the blocks. I admit that there are very minimal gains to be had by tuning a bone stock car. There are far more gains to be had from installing larger injectors, a larger turbo and turning up the boost, but to do any of that properly you should be tuning the car at every step. The fact that you can safely turn up the boost to say 14-15 lbs without getting detonation does NOT mean the car is setup properly at that point, in fact I can pretty much guarantee it isn't if the stock ECU is tuned for about 7 psi.

The beauty of doing things this way around is that Sy has a damn near perfect factory tune as default on a stock car that is only a few clicks away if things start to go south. He can play around in the evenings and put everything back to stock to drive to work in the morning without issue. Not to mention he can log everything and detect everything from boost leaks to faulty injectors. And most importantly he is then setup for any changes that he subsequently makes. Bigger injectors? Change global and dead time settings and adjust fuel trims. Adding more boost? Check fuel and timing, adjust as necessary. Adding a GM-MAF? Just select GM-MAF from the drop down menu etc., etc., etc.

I honestly think this is the better route and that half of the people with crap running cars are in that position for no other reason than they have deviated too far from the stock configuration without being able to compensate properly. Granted you need to know what you are doing to compensate properly but I still think a stock car is a much better place to start learning because you have the rock solid base line of the factory tune.

I certainly wish I had done things this way. 90% of the reason my build isn't finished is because I changed so much of my engine configuration at one time that I am now really struggling to get the car to run properly. I think the world would be a better place if more people started off like Sy.

But I'd like to hear your side of the story.

Paul.

 

[sy1100]

Thanks Cheeky this exactly why I am doing this, I know from experience that you cant just throw parts on a car and expect to go fast. I want to be able to see what the car is doing now, and get an idea of how it runs here in 120 degree temps in the summer and 30 degree winters. There is a pile of parts sitting waiting to go on this car, everything for a 5 lug swap and coilovers to 20g 6 blade extended tip billet turbo. So this being my first mod to the car makes the most sense to me.

 

[prove_it]

Put in the EVO mod1 map into this and it will run better. Also set your knock control to 3k rpms and 10 percent throttle. That will prevent knock pick up from lifter tick and exhaust noise.

I get what Cheeky is saying as the stock tune is risky as is. I wasn't sure if you where going to mod it your not. Link is an amazing tool once you learn all the functions. V3 IS standalone. I can't wait for the day they can add more inputs and outputs though. IMO, that's the only downside. 2 outputs plus boost control kinda sucks as I'm running a cyclone and the BOV mod already. But hey, a stock car may pick up around 10whp through proper fuel tune since the factory runs so damn rich to compensate for the ridiculous 24 degree timing mark on the stock map.

 

[JCorbo25]

Quoting sy1100:
Thanks Cheeky this exactly why I am doing this, I know from experience that you cant just throw parts on a car and expect to go fast. I want to be able to see what the car is doing now, and get an idea of how it runs here in 120 degree temps in the summer and 30 degree winters. There is a pile of parts sitting waiting to go on this car, everything for a 5 lug swap and coilovers to 20g 6 blade extended tip billet turbo. So this being my first mod to the car makes the most sense to me.



I'm following the same build path. I daily drive my Galant VR4 (mostly stock) and have a pile of parts. I want to make sure the car is running 100% and I fix all the minor issues before swapping in mods (and learn Link along the way).

My car is already running better on Link than it was on the stock ECU and I've hardly changed anything.