MellowVR4
Well-known member
what is needed to run a cyclone manifold? and is it better to run this intake manifold. let me kno if anybody has got any experience with this manifold. thnx
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cyclone manifold
- Thread starter MellowVR4
- Start date
INB4WOP
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Last edited by a moderator:
MellowVR4
Well-known member
this is me searching. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
prove_it
Well-known member
Your going to be WOP'd if your not careful.
Muskrat
Well-known member
Quoting MellowVR4:
this is me searching. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
This is me not answering your question.
this is me searching. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
This is me not answering your question.
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Come on guys this is the Newbie section, if you don't want to play nice don't come in here. You know the newbies wind you up so if you haven't got the patience leave them to play on their own. I love this board but even with my post count I find the search feature the most annoyingly 'un'-user friendly example I have ever encountered.
Mellow,
The Cyclone Manifold is essentially two manifolds in one, using primary and secondary runners to allow it to produce more low to mid-range power (especially off boost) without restricting airflow in the higher rpms. It accomplishes this through the use of butterfly valves in the runners, which you will need to ensure are both present and functional, to allow you to take full advantage of the manifold.
Asking if it is better is a difficult question for us to answer because a lot depends on your setup, intended future modifications and what you will primarily be using the car for. The Cyclone is an OEM manifold and works well on stock engines and lightly modified ones for the reasons mentioned above. The Cyclone will flow very similar numbers to a stock USDM manifold so it is good for whatever power people usually make on stock manifolds. If you begin to seriously modify the engine, port the head etc etc you may find it stops flowing enough up top at which point you may want to look at a SMIM.
To make it work you need the vacuum canister, relevant lines and a means to operate the butterfly valves. In a JDM car the ECU has a separate board to operate the Cyclone Manifold. There is some debate as to the exact code used to open the valves and whether it is boost, rpm or load dependent. Keydiver on this board has done a lot of research on the Cyclones and developed a method to open the secondaries using an rpm dependent switch which he can set according to your requirements. This is usually largely dependent upon the type of turbo you use and when boost comes in on your car.
As stated there are other threads out there. I know it can be a pain searching on here but I would recommend trying to learn the idiosyncrasies of the search feature because a lot of those posts give far better explanations than mine, and there is a host of information in them including the exact parts you will need.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes if you decide to go this route.
Paul.
Mellow,
The Cyclone Manifold is essentially two manifolds in one, using primary and secondary runners to allow it to produce more low to mid-range power (especially off boost) without restricting airflow in the higher rpms. It accomplishes this through the use of butterfly valves in the runners, which you will need to ensure are both present and functional, to allow you to take full advantage of the manifold.
Asking if it is better is a difficult question for us to answer because a lot depends on your setup, intended future modifications and what you will primarily be using the car for. The Cyclone is an OEM manifold and works well on stock engines and lightly modified ones for the reasons mentioned above. The Cyclone will flow very similar numbers to a stock USDM manifold so it is good for whatever power people usually make on stock manifolds. If you begin to seriously modify the engine, port the head etc etc you may find it stops flowing enough up top at which point you may want to look at a SMIM.
To make it work you need the vacuum canister, relevant lines and a means to operate the butterfly valves. In a JDM car the ECU has a separate board to operate the Cyclone Manifold. There is some debate as to the exact code used to open the valves and whether it is boost, rpm or load dependent. Keydiver on this board has done a lot of research on the Cyclones and developed a method to open the secondaries using an rpm dependent switch which he can set according to your requirements. This is usually largely dependent upon the type of turbo you use and when boost comes in on your car.
As stated there are other threads out there. I know it can be a pain searching on here but I would recommend trying to learn the idiosyncrasies of the search feature because a lot of those posts give far better explanations than mine, and there is a host of information in them including the exact parts you will need.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes if you decide to go this route.
Paul.
cheekychimp
Well-known member
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Aaaahh!!! In that case my most humble apologies gentlemen ... he probably deserved that then!
Mellow dear fellow if you are a newbie (to these cars at least) best STAY in the newbie section for a while until you find your feet. You are relatively protected in here from the point of view that a lot of stuff that is tolerated in here is NOT tolerated anywhere else. The tech section especially is a minefield.
We are here to help but you have to accept that there are some VERY VERY knowledgeable people on this board but they can only answer the same question so many times before saying "Not Again!" Not to ram the search feature down your throat again but the point is that people on here do generally want to help and to that aim, where very good tech posts are made they often make it into the How To and Archives section. That is another very good place to browse for some excellent information.
A 30 sec search revealed this for example Cyclone Butterflies Activation Point
Mellow dear fellow if you are a newbie (to these cars at least) best STAY in the newbie section for a while until you find your feet. You are relatively protected in here from the point of view that a lot of stuff that is tolerated in here is NOT tolerated anywhere else. The tech section especially is a minefield.
We are here to help but you have to accept that there are some VERY VERY knowledgeable people on this board but they can only answer the same question so many times before saying "Not Again!" Not to ram the search feature down your throat again but the point is that people on here do generally want to help and to that aim, where very good tech posts are made they often make it into the How To and Archives section. That is another very good place to browse for some excellent information.
A 30 sec search revealed this for example Cyclone Butterflies Activation Point
Quoting prove_it:
Your going to be WOP'd if your not careful.
srsly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
Your going to be WOP'd if your not careful.
srsly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
prove_it
Well-known member
You'll learn.
chrisb33
Well-known member
here's a diagram for you
Ken's setup was actually a little more complicated than it needed to be. You can use one 3-post solenoid (like the FPR solenoid) to do the job of both of those solenoids. What you want to do is put vacuum into the Cyclone diaphragm until some preset rpm, like 4100-4500 rpm, then energize the solenoid, which will simultaneously block off the vacuum canister so you don't lose any vacuum, and at the same time allow the vacuum in the diaphragm to vent to atmosphere, opening the secondaries.
chrisb33
Well-known member
hi jeff,
how do you control when to activate the second batch of flappers with that kind of set up. i currently have a dilemma right now on how to properly hook up my cyclone IM. i have dsmlink and i know i can activate the cyclone IM using the nitrous feature of the link. however, im using that feature to run my methanol injection system.
is there a simpler way to control the cyclone system? i was reading some articles at the tuners and i think a shift light method can do the job. but if there's a simpler way to do it then im all for it.
sorry for the O.P. for high jacking your thread.
how do you control when to activate the second batch of flappers with that kind of set up. i currently have a dilemma right now on how to properly hook up my cyclone IM. i have dsmlink and i know i can activate the cyclone IM using the nitrous feature of the link. however, im using that feature to run my methanol injection system.
is there a simpler way to control the cyclone system? i was reading some articles at the tuners and i think a shift light method can do the job. but if there's a simpler way to do it then im all for it.
sorry for the O.P. for high jacking your thread.
There are other rpm devices that others have used successfully. I believe the most common is an MSD "pill". Someone who has actually used one may want to chime in here with a part number or better description.
It looks like its >$100 by the time you also buy the 8950 switch and the kit of modules for the rpm range you need:
click
click
There aren't any other solenoid outputs your DSMLink will allow you to control?
It looks like its >$100 by the time you also buy the 8950 switch and the kit of modules for the rpm range you need:
click
click
There aren't any other solenoid outputs your DSMLink will allow you to control?
chrisb33
Well-known member
hi jeff,
thanks for the prompt reply. no, the dsmlink has no other solenoid outputs. anyway here's a snap shot of the article i was telling you about regarding the shift light method. let me know your thoughts.
Shift Light: This method is almost identical to the RPM activated switch. Follow the directions for the RPM switch method. The only difference is that you are going to need to tap into the light’s bulb power wire. The wire you tap for that is going to be the power source for the solenoid. How this method works is when the shift light’s ship sends the power to the light bulb/LED array to “light up†indicating to the driver to shift, you use that power to activate the solenoid. Shift lights either come pill operated like the RPM switches can, or you can get the EBay racing style ones with adjustable knobs on the back for the RPM point.
thanks for the prompt reply. no, the dsmlink has no other solenoid outputs. anyway here's a snap shot of the article i was telling you about regarding the shift light method. let me know your thoughts.
Shift Light: This method is almost identical to the RPM activated switch. Follow the directions for the RPM switch method. The only difference is that you are going to need to tap into the light’s bulb power wire. The wire you tap for that is going to be the power source for the solenoid. How this method works is when the shift light’s ship sends the power to the light bulb/LED array to “light up†indicating to the driver to shift, you use that power to activate the solenoid. Shift lights either come pill operated like the RPM switches can, or you can get the EBay racing style ones with adjustable knobs on the back for the RPM point.
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prove_it
Well-known member
Your wrong about link having one control. If you have the lastest version of ECULINK V3, you can control the egr solenoid output and the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. I use the FPR output for my cyclone and the other will be used for a boost control.
So yea, upgrade to V3. You'll love it. If you have V2 now, the difference is incredible. If you have V3 and don't have the updates current go the the site and update it now.
So yea, upgrade to V3. You'll love it. If you have V2 now, the difference is incredible. If you have V3 and don't have the updates current go the the site and update it now.
Is that a quote pertaining to the DSMLink shift light? It sounds like it should work, although the CEL is fed through a 3.3 ohm resistor, which might not be too happy about the load of the solenoid on it. You may want to think about using the CEL wire to trigger a lower current 12 volt relay, which in turn would trigger the solenoid, to avoid having the CEL transistor and resistor carrying the full current.
I thought ECMLink v3 had more solenoid controls. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I thought ECMLink v3 had more solenoid controls. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
chrisb33
Well-known member
Quoting prove_it:
Your wrong about link having one control. If you have the lastest version of ECULINK V3, you can control the egr solenoid output and the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. I use the FPR output for my cyclone and the other will be used for a boost control.
So yea, upgrade to V3. You'll love it. If you have V2 now, the difference is incredible. If you have V3 and don't have the updates current go the the site and update it now.
i only have the v2 for now.
Your wrong about link having one control. If you have the lastest version of ECULINK V3, you can control the egr solenoid output and the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. I use the FPR output for my cyclone and the other will be used for a boost control.
So yea, upgrade to V3. You'll love it. If you have V2 now, the difference is incredible. If you have V3 and don't have the updates current go the the site and update it now.
i only have the v2 for now.
chrisb33
Well-known member
Quoting keydiver:
Is that a quote pertaining to the DSMLink shift light? It sounds like it should work, although the CEL is fed through a 3.3 ohm resistor, which might not be too happy about the load of the solenoid on it. You may want to think about using the CEL wire to trigger a lower current 12 volt relay, which in turn would trigger the solenoid, to avoid having the CEL transistor and resistor carrying the full current.
I thought ECMLink v3 had more solenoid controls. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
hi jeff thanks.
no, that didnt came from dsmlink manual or wiki. it was an article from the tuners.
i only have the v2 for now. still debating whether to upgrade to v3 coz i think it's overkill for my set up. i still plan to use my 609 maf and the v3 seems to be more favorable for those using gm maf's
Is that a quote pertaining to the DSMLink shift light? It sounds like it should work, although the CEL is fed through a 3.3 ohm resistor, which might not be too happy about the load of the solenoid on it. You may want to think about using the CEL wire to trigger a lower current 12 volt relay, which in turn would trigger the solenoid, to avoid having the CEL transistor and resistor carrying the full current.
I thought ECMLink v3 had more solenoid controls. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
hi jeff thanks.
no, that didnt came from dsmlink manual or wiki. it was an article from the tuners.
i only have the v2 for now. still debating whether to upgrade to v3 coz i think it's overkill for my set up. i still plan to use my 609 maf and the v3 seems to be more favorable for those using gm maf's
