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clutch questions

wuz up guys my clutch just went out in the vr4 and im looking at purchasing a new clutch kit im still on the 14b with just some boltons and couple of fuel mods with a mbc running 15psi im looking at getting the act 2100 clutch kit but have a few questions the clutch kit for a 1g dsm will work for the vr4 right? and ive also heard bad things about the act throw out bearing would it be ok to still use the act bearing and is there anything else i would need to get while replacing the clutch any gaskets or anything im leaving out thanks for the help guys
 

LIV4PSI

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The problem with ACT clutches are the springs coming out of the disc. Yes, the dsm clutch is the same. If you buy a clutch kit, it will come with a disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. You will still need

-resurfaced flywheel
-both front axle seals
-downpipe gaskets
-Transmission fluid and Tcase fluid
- I would also suggest a new clutch fork (2g) and pivot ball
 

ok thanks for the help do you know where i can purchase front axle seals and the new clutch fork and pivot ball
 

Jason G.

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Some people have issues with the ACT TOB, I prefer the OEM Mitsu one.

You need to ensure the flywheel has the correct step height as well.
 

LIV4PSI

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I buy most all of my OEM Mitsu parts from JNZ Tuning. I enjoy supporting fellow VR4 enthusiasts. Although I will admit I bought my clutch fork from ebay, I found it cheaper there. But I didn't ask Paul at JNZ if he could beat it either.
 

LIV4PSI

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Quoting Jason G.:


You need to ensure the flywheel has the correct step height as well.



Most all competent machine shops know this, but it is good to double check. OP, the step height is the raise area by where the dowel pins are. The same amount of material needs to be removed from there as what is removed from the friction surface.
 

ok i got it once again thanks for help guys its really appreciated cant wait to get this car back on road
 

belize1334

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ACT no longer sells it's own TOB. It'll be an OEM TOB that comes with the clutch. As for axle seals, if the axles aren't leaking now I see no reason to replace the seals. And you don't need to replace the t-case fluid. Just take it out and set it aside so that it doesn't leak while you're doing the other work. You will need the clutch kit, a new fork and ball, a new bearing clip (doesn't not come with the bearing or the fork), and transmission fluid. You should also bleed the clutch thoroughly and adjust the pedal for maximum disengagement.
 
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