Clutch go bye bye

[mk2davis]

A) I was driving home this morning, and after a 15 minute freeway stint I pulled up to a stop light and the engine stalled.
B) While odd, everything started up okay but then the rpms seemed low
C) I had to give it some gas to keep rpms > 500, and only at low rpm's I heard a bearing squeal, but not above 1k rpm
D) I limped to a parking lot (ungracefully) and when I got out, I noticed my pedal was stuck down.
E) Clutch smell was evident, and reservoir level was at MIN, but present.
F) After pulling up the pedal by hand, operation of the clutch pedal is REALLY STIFF.
G) Attempts to start the car are unsuccessful. It seems like the starter is rotating the flywheel, but the flywheel has a lot of drag EVEN IN NEUTRAL. There is a significant dragging sound as well.
H) The car rolls just fine.

I think there may be two issues at play, one with the hydraulics and one internally. I'm going to replace the master/slave (because of the pedal behavior) and see where that gets me. If anyone has any other input, I am all ears. Too many cars at the moment, this is a really bad time for a clutch job.

 

[JNR]

Would normally start with the simple stuff first, like flushing/refilling the system with fresh fluid (in case moisture has been absorbed) and bleed the slave cylinder [SC]. However, typically a failed SC means really difficult gear changes, if at all possible to change gears. This happened to me on a different car. Didn't have other issues though and it had pretty much just happened and didn't let it go on long. Replaced it, along with the clutch and flywheel (wanted an upgrade, plus lighter steel billet FW), then it ran good as new.

Sounds like the starter spins though? Would think if it were the SC or related then it wouldn't even crank, should the clutch pedal not operate correctly (i.e. clutch interlock switch not engaged).

Another thought may be the throwout bushing or bearing (forgot which these use), which could make the clutch not operate properly, sort of being 'locked' to the engine. Your symptoms *seem* to be more like that.

 

[mk2davis]

I 100% agree that the TO bearing (?) is likely the culprit. I was losing a little fluid in slave/master circuit (say 1 top off every 6 months), and clutch was showing signs of age (in 2nd gear starts the clutch would slip if I was lazy) but this too happened very infrequently. So the real answer is to do it all. I was just hoping it didn't have to get ALL done RIGHT NOW. Immediate attention = paying someone else to do it. If I can at least move it around, I can save the cash and do it myself.

 

[JNR]

Know what you mean...when my SC went out, wasn't prepared to spend that type of money and at the time wasn't able to do it myself (work, other stuff). Thankfully my FIL's neighbor was a mechanic who did work on the side, who was quite reasonable priced to do the work. Another nice thing that worked out was we still had the TuRD truck so used that for my DD while the car was down.

Also know what it's like having too many cars and too many projects to want to tackle something like that. Especially if it's any sort of DD that can't be down for a long time.

Still, as you mentioned, it's best to plan on doing everything while it's apart, even if PITA and $$$. Same time, good excuse for any upgrades like say a billet steel flywheel. Personally didn't want it *too* light, as the driving characteristics do change a little but you do get used to it.

 

[gvr4ever]

What clutch are you running? My last clutch was a center force. I didn't wear it out. The friction material just started falling off off the clutch, so it just failed early, but I had chunks of clutch getting in the way of the TOB releasing. The fact that your hydraulic fluid is low, sounds like you could have more than one issue.

I'd start with hydraulics, but if it still doesn't work right, you'll likely have to drop the transmission. Check for leaks on the master and slave.

 

[mk2davis]

What you describe with the CF clutch sounds VERY familiar. And I suspect mine was a CF, and guess what my new one is? Previous one lasted 15 years maybe, so it might be overdue either way.

Just one issue. My Luk slave cylinder (the one one I could find!) isn't correct. It is 180 out, bosses in the wrong place, and is a larger bore. I cleaned out the original, and it doesn't look bad. Back in it goes unless I can find something else.

Anyone have a good source for SC or rebuild kits?

New clutch and flywheel will be here in a few days from Jegs. I got the bearings already. So I have a few days to figure out SC/MC. If I'm replacing the mechanical, might as well have new hydraulics too.

 

[gvr4ever]

I'll never get a CF clutch again. My mechanic showed me missing pieces of clutch that just "unglued" and was able to easily pry off more pieces in front of me. I ended up going with a Greddy 6 puck clutch. Break in is a bitch. Not going to sugar coat it. It's a bucking violent period. At first, I felt I made a mistake. Once broken in, things smooth out, and the clutch pedal is near stock soft, with gobs of space on the clutch floor. A cold clutch still isn't "nice", but once warmed up, things are much smoother and close enough for normal. She can still be a chatty Cathy at low RPMs, but the light pedal and easy shifting out weighs any negatives. I've yet to find a street disk that comes close. Not saying it doesn't exist, but I haven't experienced it. Everything is a balance, but I personally HATE and heavy pedal street disk. Like a ACT 2600. I had that before the CF. The CF should be the nice option, but I don't trust the quality. I'm rocking a big 16G, so I need to be above 3K RPMs to be in the torque boost range anyway. I can cruse at 45MPH on a flat road in 4th, but if the road has an incline, I need to drop to 3rd to get away from clutch chatter, and in the power range. Puck clutches are great, but they have a nasty break in period, and a driving habit. Low RPMs just down right suck. I no longer get violent bucking, but it can still be noisy and annoying below 2500 RPMs. It's not a cruising clutch, it's a lets go clutch.