MegaSuiter
Well-known member
Just blew my radiator at work last night.... How long does it take to take out the old radiator and install a civic/ebay one. Anyone recommend it? Or just stay with the stock huge radiator?
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
Civic Radiator
- Thread starter MegaSuiter
- Start date
citymunky
Well-known member
2 hose clamps, 4 bolts. Not that long to remove.
The whole swap should be a few hours with bleeding the air out of th system. If the t-stat is old I would replace that also.
The whole swap should be a few hours with bleeding the air out of th system. If the t-stat is old I would replace that also.
MegaSuiter
Well-known member
Thanks. Do you have to drill holes for the 1/2 radiator or do they mount right up to the stock mounts?
Xcelerate
Active member
Stay with stock. Honda engines are small, non turbo, aluminum and open deck so it doesn't need much to cool down and doesn't create much heat. 4g63 engine is cast block, close decked, small coolant holes, and turbo. You definitely need a bigger radiator and bigger front opening to cool this beast down
MegaSuiter
Well-known member
The civic radiator holds more fluid than the stock gvr4's does...
Brunoboy
Well-known member
Quoting Xcelerate:
Stay with stock. Honda engines are small, non turbo, aluminum and open deck so it doesn't need much to cool down and doesn't create much heat. 4g63 engine is cast block, close decked, small coolant holes, and turbo. You definitely need a bigger radiator and bigger front opening to cool this beast down
people here and DSM owners are running civic Radiators for space with no issues.
Stay with stock. Honda engines are small, non turbo, aluminum and open deck so it doesn't need much to cool down and doesn't create much heat. 4g63 engine is cast block, close decked, small coolant holes, and turbo. You definitely need a bigger radiator and bigger front opening to cool this beast down
people here and DSM owners are running civic Radiators for space with no issues.
MegaSuiter
Well-known member
What does the bracket have to look like?
Brunoboy
Well-known member
MegaSuiter
Well-known member
So from what I have read I buy a radiator and 14 inch fan, Drill holes in the support, Get rubber grommets when I can, and irregardless if I connect the sensor it will work? Just have the fan on 100% of the time.
citymunky
Well-known member
I wired a Power/ECO switch to my control my fan. (On/Off)
Mine had small posts on the bottom of the radiator that I stuck into the stock location with a rubber donut and made a bracket for the top. Done deal.
turbowop
Well-known member
Unless you absolutely need the space, why install a Civic radiator? Stock radiators for our application can even be found in stock in my podunk town, so they're not hard to source, and they're fairly cheap to boot.
4thStroke
Well-known member
Are you bored and looking for something to do?
There is no reason to change the style of the radiator if you do not need more space unless you just want to create work for yourself.
There is no reason to change the style of the radiator if you do not need more space unless you just want to create work for yourself.
MegaSuiter
Well-known member
Thought it would be cheaper and easier to work with, plus I have read about cars running 15 degrees cooler!
I run a push and puller fan with no issues /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif controlled by my AC switch
Dsm and civic rad hoses are different diameters so I made an adapter out of some pipe to reduce leaks.
Good luck
Dsm and civic rad hoses are different diameters so I made an adapter out of some pipe to reduce leaks.
Good luck
rdomeck
Well-known member
Stay with the stock one! The Civic one holds more....Maybe, but it has less surface area to cool it down, so the capacity improvement really isn't!!!! Would you take a piece of cardboard and cover half of your stock radiator and expect it to cool the same? Keep it stock.
Quoting MegaSuiter:
Thought it would be cheaper and easier to work with, plus I have read about cars running 15 degrees cooler!
All depends on your set up. Are you running a FMIC? Do you still have the AC condenser? I had both and my temps were higher than what I would of liked them to be. This was around the fall season too...I could only imagine what the temps would of been in the hot summer months. If you are set on a civic radiator, make sure you get the highest rated cfm fan that can fit(14" might be the limit).
Thought it would be cheaper and easier to work with, plus I have read about cars running 15 degrees cooler!
All depends on your set up. Are you running a FMIC? Do you still have the AC condenser? I had both and my temps were higher than what I would of liked them to be. This was around the fall season too...I could only imagine what the temps would of been in the hot summer months. If you are set on a civic radiator, make sure you get the highest rated cfm fan that can fit(14" might be the limit).
MegaSuiter
Well-known member
No AC no big fmic, so I think it will be fine. With a 14 inch fan I don't think the surface area would matter than much. Plus plenty of people are running them with no problems.
turbowop
Well-known member
Your car shouldn't be running 15 degrees cooler due to a radiator change. Temperature is controlled by the thermostat, and running that cool will keep the ECU in "warmup" mode all the time anyway. There is no benefit.
FWIW, in 1051 I have about the biggest intercooler you can fit, and I still have AC. All on the stock radiator. Driving the car around the summer it's just fine, and it gets into the upper 90's, lower triple digits for a month here in Eastern WA.
FWIW, in 1051 I have about the biggest intercooler you can fit, and I still have AC. All on the stock radiator. Driving the car around the summer it's just fine, and it gets into the upper 90's, lower triple digits for a month here in Eastern WA.
