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Cabin noise/rattle

Xevaus

New member
Joined
Oct 14, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Brisbane, QLD
Hi all,

I'm looking at purchasing a 1991 GVR4 Monte Carlo. I went to have a look at it over the weekend, looks great and runs fine. It has about 260,000KM on the chassis (roughly 160,000 miles). My only issue is the cabin is incredibly noisy, has lots of rattles/squeeks. I suppose given it's age this is to be expected, however i was wondering if this is a common issue with GVR4's? Is it possible to fix or would it just be something i'd have to live with?

Thanks in advance.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,990
Location
Michigan
Certainly noises can be addressed, just have to find the root causes. There are lots of modern noise reduction tapes and foams available.

I don't think GVR4s have this problem normally. I have not had huge issues with any of my three. Did have a small tick in the driver b-pillar of my 92 I could never find.
 

AllanL

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
297
Location
NV
take it and fix it... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Stiff sidewall tire in combination with heavier and larger rims.
Non-OEM suspension along the lines of stiffer struts - like KYB AGX.
Loose and sagging door hinges and rubber cover missing from door striker as a result.
Plastic dash pieces missing screws to hold things in place.
Aging plastics creating that awful squeak nose when they break loose from a position of rest against another similar piece.

As stated above, there are tapes by 3M for squeak reduction and even some of the push pins can be loaded with squeak reduction tape as they are inserted to tighten things back up.

If someone has been in there removing things, you simply have to check if they are tight, require a re-alignment or if you have wind noise from window felts or rubber surrounds that need some
building up where they grab the metal seams, to make for more compression against the door surfaces/window glass.

Sometimes you have bent A pillars and or B pillars (the main culprit), allowing the top back of the door to stay slightly loose against the door jamb.
This can require putting your knee at the mid point of the door *inside mid point where the door card meets the latch mechanism - just above that - and pulling the top of the door/window frame back until you have moved
it back into a better and tighter fitting position. This is of course assuming your hinges are aligned and tight enough to be working properly.

Those are the biggest gremlins that affect all cars that I can think of, but hey if the mid body spot welds are all popped, someone went Dukes of Hazard and not much brings a car back after that ... forget I said that!

Go grab it and put some love into it, if the price is right and car is solid. Be prepared for work, if any major components have been neglected for any length of time.
I think I wrote a book on what to look for on a fellow members post here recently. Areas of concern, what to look out for.

Oh, and welcome aboard ... almost!
 
Last edited:

brisvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2004
Messages
955
Location
brisbane australia
Is this Mo’s car?
If so you will have nothing mechanical to do to it. He is pretty anal when it comes to upkeep on his cars!
 

Xevaus

New member
Joined
Oct 14, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Brisbane, QLD
I believe it is. Yeah mechanically it looked great, i think it's just the interior showing it's age; don't think it's anything that can't be sorted though
 
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