ARP hardware install questions

[Kenny_Kline]

I am using ARP head studs, main studs, and rod bolts. I am putting the ARP rod bolts in a set of 1G rods. I dropped off the rods at the machine shop and they told me they need the rod bolts to put in so they can bore the rod (big end) to make sure its circle after swaaping the rod bolts as it wont be aligned. I brought up that I am doing main studs too and they said its the same process for the crank end caps too and that they would need the block. I am just doing a rering and new bearings on the bottom end and am all set with bothering machining the block to fit some main studs. I brought this issue up to a few other guys who know the 4G63 specifics and they said that its true what the machine shop said about the rods but not about the main studs. They said the 4G63 main caps dont have alignment issues when swapping the studs as they studs fit perfectly in there. No way to shift around. It only goes on one way. I heard this from a few guys who rebuild these motors and said they are 110% sure the main studs can just be swapped but the rod bolts cant be although people do the rod bolts with no machine work and some get lucky, some dont.

Now I am thinking of leaving the main studs alone even though the guys said you can do it and you wont have problems but the machine shop are the pros so im not sure now...

Discuss

 

[Brianawd]

You don't have to have the rods redone after putting in arp rod bolts. You should have the main line bored after putting in arp main studs. Do you have to do it? No. I have put arp main studs in blocks with out a main line bore and every thing worked out fine. Its just a good idea to do it. But most if the time it will cost you between $150-200

 

[gaylantvr4]

there have been many people that have not had there rods resized and blocks align honed with no problems. there have also been people that installed rod bolts and spun bearings because they didn't resize the rods when installing arp rod bolts. i would have the rods resized if it where me and toss the arp main bolts and use stock main bolts. alot of big name people use stock main bolt over the arps.

 

[Kenny_Kline]

"i would have the rods resized if it where me and toss the arp main bolts and use stock main bolts."

Im confused.

Did you mean use the ARP rod bolts, resize rods, then keep the stock main bolts?

 

[bazeng]

Because of the greater torque spec, the mains can go out of round... I'd align hone it to be sure. If you do go this route, why not add in a kiggly girdle too!..

As for the rod bolts, why not buy some eagle rods and get the ARP's with it!!..
Might cost less then muching around with stock rods..

 

[chrisb33]

im planning the same thing - ARP head, rod, and main bolts. And im also confused. So if i understand this thread correctly, it would be better to just stick to the OEM main bolts and rod bolts?

I also dont get what is meant by "resizing the rods" when installing the arp's?

Correct me if im wrong, but arent these ARP bolts a direct fitment to where the OEM bolts are bolted in? or the ARP's have bigger diameters and therefore machining is required?

chris b

 

[Kenny_Kline]

I decided to just go with arp rod bolts and leave the mains alone

 

Quote:
Correct me if im wrong, but arent these ARP bolts a direct fitment to where the OEM bolts are bolted in? or the ARP's have bigger diameters and therefore machining is required?

chris b



even if they are Identical bolts, the severe up and down thrust can cause Out of Round... which is an ovaling from wear. A good machine shop will want all the bolt (rod and main) to make sure that the rods are perfectly symetrical (sp) and so that they can Align Hone the mains to be sure that it is as close to a perfect circle as possible.
it is easier to put a larger bearing in to accomodate the size difference than it is to make an egg role like a marble

 

[chrisb33]

oh ok gotcha. thanks.

 

[GVR-4]

IMHO you don't need to worry about upgrading the bottom end fasteners. Are you going to make >400 horsepower? Head studs I would do though.

 

[chrisb33]

^^^yup im aiming for 400-450whp max on my engine rebuild project. going to use stock bottom, new 2g pistons, clevite rod and main bearings and ARP's all the way.

Sorry for hijacking this thread.

chris b

 

[Telecaster]

I left the main's stock and did the eagle rod arp also with my 2.4

 

[iceman69510]

Quoting Brianawd:
You don't have to have the rods redone after putting in arp rod bolts.



Actually, you should have the rods resized WHILE the ARP rod bolts are installed and torqued to the proper torque. Thus the resizing is done in the condition the rod will be in the engine. That is how I had mine done a couple weeks ago.

 

[Brianawd]

Quote:
Actually, you should have the rods resized WHILE the ARP rod bolts are installed and torqued to the proper torque. Thus the resizing is done in the condition the rod will be in the engine. That is how I had mine done a couple weeks ago.




Really! Then tell my why arp rod bolts are a must on Evos if wanting to push the stock bottom end. All they do is pull the pan and toss in the rod bolts with no problems. We can do the same to our cars. I have done it many times and never spun a rod bearing.

 

[iceman69510]

That is something I have not done or heard. I will do more research on this issue. Maybe my machinist is wrong and getting more work, huh?

 

[Kenny_Kline]

The correct way is to get the machine work done although some people do get away with it where as some don't and spin a bearing. I have done enough research to decide its better to do the machine work.

 

[ktmrider]

^^ +1.
It boils down to the variation in clamp load/force contorting the bearing housing. Stock/OEM TTY bolts don't distort the caps quite as much as the aftermarket fasteners.
It's definitely suggested when you switch from a bolt to a stud/nut combo most common on the mains. If the rods were bolts and the ARP hardware was the same you won't get quite the delta but if you are already sinking a few thou into a rebuild the line honing is not a bad idea...