am i ready for e85?

[yeti]

Alright so I have a rewired walbro 255lph and PTE 1000cc injectors, aero AFPR,

Am I missing anything to start tuning on e85.

The main reson I want to switch is because of knock I'm getting know now after anything past 10psi. So I would rather just learn to tune on e85 then rather tune around knock then once on e85 have to rreverse all the timimg adjustments made.

Just to clear it up.

For initial set up right after you put e85 in tank and dial in injectors is there anything else to do before starting the car.

So just 2 queations if I need anything MORE to my existing fuel system to run e85 and what is the initial set up just change injectors?

But I'm geussing you will have to change fuel to change the stoichemetric ratio.

 

[TRBODSM]

What are you using for tuning?

 

[AnotherNewb]

You should probably figure out why you have knock at only 10psi first. Is your base timing correctly set? Is it phantom knock or maybe a bad knock sensor? What is your max timing set at? What rpm? How much knock? What turbo are you using?

But to answer your question, sure you have the injectors to switch to e85 but without knowing what your power goals are we can't tell you if your going to have enough injector.

Oh, and why not tune your car on gasoline first, save the tune, then tuner it for e85. This way you can wear a flex fuelbadge with pride. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[yeti]

I like the flex fuel idea...

I'm tuning with dsmlink v3 ya I'm going to take your advice to tune for the gasoline first and get rid of my knock.

I'll get back to you with those timing questions.

And I plan to probly run 25-30 psi.
Ebay 16g turbo

 

[dewman]

Quoting Yeti:
And I plan to probly run 25-30 psi.
Ebay 16g turbo




What the crap? Have you determined the life expectancy of that turbo with that amount of boost? Seriously,that thing is about as useful as a condom that your gf poked holes in.

 

[Brunoboy]

knock is seriously an issue. dont try to bandaid it with just E85, figure out whats wrong first before anything else.
-Shane

 

[yeti]

I'm just using this to see how much it can handle. And I got a evo 3 16g for replacement..

And for the max timing is it what's it the red, on the Timingmaxoct table.

And the only way to do away with knock is to reduce timing?

 

[AnotherNewb]

Two words for you: systematic diagnosis.

How many counts of knock do you have?
What does your knock sensor LOOK like? Has the goo melted out of it, is it properly torqued?
Do you have a wideband set up? What are your A/F ratio when knock occures?
Verify base timing. That means busting out your timing light and following the procedure outlined on vfaq.
If all that checks out, log another test drive.

I fully understand the concept of give 'er hell until she blows' but your playing with a brand of explosives your don't fully understand. You REALLY need to find someone local to help you out.

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting dewman:
Quoting Yeti:
And I plan to probly run 25-30 psi.
Ebay 16g turbo




What the crap? Have you determined the life expectancy of that turbo with that amount of boost? Seriously,that thing is about as useful as a condom that your gf poked holes in.



Didn't someone run a test of these and determine that they weren't actually all that bad at all?

 

[14u2nV]

Quoting AnotherNewb:
I fully understand the concept of give 'er hell until she blows' but your playing with a brand of explosives your don't fully understand. You REALLY need to find someone local to help you out.



We've been telling him that ALL ALONG, and yet he still keeps adding things he doesn't know anything about and pushing it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[524of1000]

Quoting cheekychimp:
Quoting dewman:
Quoting Yeti:
And I plan to probly run 25-30 psi.
Ebay 16g turbo




What the crap? Have you determined the life expectancy of that turbo with that amount of boost? Seriously,that thing is about as useful as a condom that your gf poked holes in.



Didn't someone run a test of these and determine that they weren't actually all that bad at all?



That was Broxma and an Ebay GT35. Yes, still runs like a champ. I also have an Ebay 16g that has even more miles than Brox's 35, still boosts like a pro.

 

[yeti]

Ok
So I ran a line just straight from WG to J-pipe, because. The mbc I tried lowering the boost with ended up with 25psi +spikes.

My AFR on my LC-1 wideband reads at about 9.4 to 11.6 AT WOT. And 12.8-15.4
I'm not to much worried about the turbo, but as I am when it blows and the rest of my car is at risk.

So back to the knock I run 10psi tops now and read .7 degrees of knock-retard, at 100% percent throttle my AFR was 9.5 while that pull was going on

I lowered the timing max octane tables to 13 at 1.6 load factor at 3500 rpm then smoothed out around the changes, is this how you get rid of knock.

I'm going down to my car now because I was letting it cool off I'll be checking the knock sensor.

 

[yeti]

And I was reviewing a log and I got 15.1 degress of knock retard so that can't be a good knock sensor right?

And anytime knock occurs I'm running rich. 9.4-10.2

 

[AnotherNewb]

Quoting AnotherNewb:
Two words for you: systematic diagnosis.

How many counts of knock do you have?
What does your knock sensor LOOK like? Has the goo melted out of it, is it properly torqued?
Do you have a wideband set up? What are your A/F ratio when knock occures?
Verify base timing. That means busting out your timing light and following the procedure outlined on vfaq.
If all that checks out, log another test drive.

I fully understand the concept of give 'er hell until she blows' but your playing with a brand of explosives your don't fully understand. You REALLY need to find someone local to help you out.

 

[yeti]

I don't have a timing light on me I gave it to my dad about a month ago so I'll swing by and pick that up.

Also I can see the screw inside the back of the knock sensor.
And it looks like all the goop has melted out.

So is all of this PK?

And to replace that sensor its just simply unscrew and screw in the new one?

And should I even check timing since now I know I need a new sensor.

 

[AnotherNewb]

Melted goop=bad knock sensor. There is a torque spec on the knock sensor but I'm too lazy to do the work for you. If its too tight it may read falsely.

 

[yeti]

Should I look for another knock sensor or should I try checking if its torque'd down enough first.

 

[14u2nV]

Quoting AnotherNewb:
Melted goop=bad knock sensor.



Checking if it is torqued enough doesn't mean jack on a bad sensor. Get a new one, make sure you put it in snug, but not torqued in.

 

[yeti]

Anyway to physically test a knock sensor like with a multimeter

 

[AnotherNewb]

Quoting 14u2nV:
Quoting AnotherNewb:
Melted goop=bad knock sensor.


.