Advice: How to properly revive my A/C system

[alansupra94]

So after having my A/C in my car removed, I decided to put it back in. I have all the lines, compresor, drier, condensor, etc. Here are my questions:

1. I read on here on how to clean out the lines and condensor (using brake cleaner and a air compressor). How do I clean out the compressor? Same way? Just want to be sure.
2. I am going to replace the drier, evaporator, o-rings and get a R134 conversion kit from advanced auto. Is there anything else I should get?

Last question is a bit complicated:
3. I don't plan on actually fixing this A/C situation until probably the winter/spring, however, I figured I should install everything (after cleaning) just because the engine is out of the car and it would be easier. Does anyone see any flaws with this logic (besides having to disconnect the lines necessary to change the evaporator and drier). I figured it would be easier and if everything is tightened up (A/C compressor won't be on) it should stay clean since it is sealed correct?

Thanks,
Alan

 

[EHmotorsports]

unless you see dirt in the compressor do not run cleaner into the compressor. get everything together with new O rings "make sure to use lube on the O rings"
then take it to a shop that recharges AC. have them run a vacuum on the system and check for leaks. after no leaks are found have them recharge the system to the proper poundage.

 

[alansupra94]

Okay sweet. I don't see any dirt inside of it.

I plan on installing the new o-rings when I get around to actually replacing everything (that way I can lube up the o-rings with the POE oil).

Right now, I am just going to clean all the lines and the condensor so that everything is clean and ready to go for new o-rings, new drier and evaporator. Then I am going to slap the R134 conversion kit, have the AC vacuumed out/leak checked and then recharged.

My plan is to be at the 600hp level with full comfort (besides ABS because that sh*t is really dangerous). I might even put the cruise control back in.

 

[turbowop]

I wouldn't bother with cruise at that power level. I pulled it out because it was horrible with some of the steep grades around locally. Going uphill was hilarious. Power/decel/power/decel/power/decel constantly. But even at my power level, it's thrown back in the seat/thrown against the harness/thrown back in the seat/thrown against the harness, etc. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

AC is necessary though. I don't understand why so many remove it. It's such a nice creature comfort to have. I also don't mind the ABS. It's archaic and old, but it's really only crappy in really sick conditions like snow or ice, IMO.

 

[slugsgomoo]

My testing suggested that the abs took considerably more distance to stop than threshold braking in the dry, plus it takes up valuable room. My oil filter lives where the ABS pump was now, so it was a two-fer.

As far as the cruise, I agree with Mark. It's even worse if you have a 2.3/2.4 (and/or) high compression and spool up fast- with the 9:1 2.0 and the evo3, cruise would snap the TPS up to like 70% after it realize "HOLY sh*t A HILL", build 21psi, crank about 10-15mph past where cruise was supposed to be set, then chop to 0% until it dropped below the target speed, lather rinse repeat. It's a waste of time. Get a non-cruise cable and enjoy a better life.

That said, my A/C was broken when I got the car and wasn't worth fixing, and now my radiator is under the core support. I do remember ruing my existence on hot summer days as I have no tint...

For what it's worth, take it to a shop and have them recharge it with R12. R134a sucks, never really gets cold, etc. I'd do propane before R134a.

 

[alansupra94]

Really? Stay with R12? Isn't that stuff REALLY expensive too lol?

Cruise control is out lol.

 

[turbowop]

Lucky for me, my car is still filled with R12 since it's never had a leak. Blows icy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Vr4junkie]

You can also try using air can duster for refrigerant that's what I'm using on my Mazda works pretty good better than R134 I had a little R12 left in the system but the hippy green side of me had it replaced with enviro safe then this air can duster stuff which works great it's about 4 bucks for a 12oz can and doesn't screw up the ozone /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Here's a link to how it's used click click

 

[slugsgomoo]

R12 has gotten a lot cheaper since the panic back in the late 90's when it was more per ounce than R134 was per pound. It's still more expensive, but not that much more, and totally worth it.

Cool air, versus icy blast. If you still can't stomach the price of R12, read up on propane conversions. Colder than R12 even by all accounts. That's what they use on many refrigerator trucks, fwiw.

 

[prove_it]

Quoting turbowop:
Lucky for me, my car is still filled with R12 since it's never had a leak. Blows icy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif



Ditto here. Gotta love a 20 year old system that still has the original parts and still functions flawless.

Yea, stay with R-12 if you can. It's worth the cost, but not all shops will have it on hand.

Yes, once you seal the system you will be ok to not fill it, as long as you have no water in the lines. Water will sit and can corrode the internals of the pump and lines. You are better off just getting it done once you can. Try to order new OEM o-rings or at least get metric AC rings. The standard rings work but often cause small leaks.

 

[iceman69510]

Original R12 in the 91, and refilled the 92 last summer with R12 a friend still has (30 lb container). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[alansupra94]

Quoting prove_it:
Quoting turbowop:
Lucky for me, my car is still filled with R12 since it's never had a leak. Blows icy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif



Ditto here. Gotta love a 20 year old system that still has the original parts and still functions flawless.

Yea, stay with R-12 if you can. It's worth the cost, but not all shops will have it on hand.

Yes, once you seal the system you will be ok to not fill it, as long as you have no water in the lines. Water will sit and can corrode the internals of the pump and lines. You are better off just getting it done once you can. Try to order new OEM o-rings or at least get metric AC rings. The standard rings work but often cause small leaks.



Yeah I figured it should be okay. I am going to have them blown dry with brake clean just to be safe. I hope my compressor is in good condition. I just figured it would be easier for me to install all the hard lines and stuff with the engine out of the car.

I will look around for a shop that has R12 when the time comes. What is a decent price for a vacuuming and recharge? Also how much POE oil does the pump need?

So far I have read that propane is R12a. Is that much different than R12?

 

[turbowop]

I'm not sure what the code name for propane is, but I do know that it has similar properties when used as a refrigerant. It's just a bit more flammable. But I guess so is 134a at pressure. I was told by the previous owner that 503 was filled with propane. I never felt like there was enough in the system to cause some huge meltdown if anything happened. Hell, the guy I bought the car from was in a front-end collision with it which is why I bought it. AC system held up just fine. The AC in that car works/worked pretty well.

There is lots of info out there on google regarding propane as a refrigerant in automotive AC systems.

 

[slugsgomoo]

r12a is propane, it has a higher efficiency than r134a so you use 40% less of it. Also because it's more refined than traditional propane (methane is removed etc) the autoignition temperature for it is over 750*C (I read somewhere north of 1650F in one place). The danger is extremely minimal though in either case.

 

[alansupra94]

I will be definitely be getting R12a...the question is do I need special adapter kits or anything?

 

[tsitalon1]

I'm getting interested in the r152a (air duster) refrigerant. .

Anyone here try it?

 

[Vr4junkie]

I'm using this stuff works good so far still messing around with it cheap available almost everwere and doesn't hurt our OZONE!!!

This is on a 93 MX6 with 220k + miles so might need to replace some parts to make it cooler.

 

[marvinmadman]

I'd be perfectly happy with 98° with that low humidity. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif" alt="" />

 

[prove_it]

Quoting alansupra94:
I will be definitely be getting R12a...the question is do I need special adapter kits or anything?



No, the system is already designed to take R12. Ignore propane as you'll need a shop to pull vacuum on the system to remove any remaining moisture, and allow for a proper charge. The machine will already be hooked up so adding R12 will take a minute. I would plan on spending around 100-200 on this. It depends on the shop and what they charge for an evac and charge.

Our shop charges $38 per pound R12, plus an hour ($100) for the evac and charge. I think our cars take about 1 1/2lbs R12. As for oil, I would see if your mitsu dealer has some laying around. The oil will need to be added directly to the compressor ports, and you'll have to look up how much it will take.

 

[alansupra94]

I mean....won't I have to pull vacuum regardless? I don't see a reason not to use R12a...it is cheaper and better than R12 right?