3000GT front knuckle compatibility?

[BrandonEchols]

I searched but couldn't find what I was after...
I saw it mentioned in a thread about the 3KGT brake install, but I don't think it ever got answered.
Instead of using the brackets and such, would it be possible to simply swap the front knuckle out and use the factory caliper mounting system for the 3000GT?
I know the rear trailing arms/hubs have been swapped in and used (with Galant or 3KGT control arms, I'm not 100% sure of yet, need to talk to some people and do a bit more digging), but will the front knuckles fit? Bolt-on affair?

 

[Dialcaliper]

The balljoints, and struts are bolt-on. The steering tie rods are bolt-on, but have slightly different geometry.

The hub though, uses a different bearing design with a bolt-in retainer (instead of press-in) and the knuckle is physically beefier. The main problem adapting them is that the axle spline is different and you'd need to frankenstein some front axles (or have them made - driveshaft shop can do it). Because of this, it will end up being more expensive than adapter brackets, but it can be done.

 

[BrandonEchols]

Is there any way to frankenstein the knuckle and hub together to avoid custom axles?
I'm not opposed, just imagine it would be easier to use off-the-shelf parts if there is any way to do it.
Also, from what I've been reading, this may enable the use of the Evo Brembo's in a near bolt-on capacity, at least on the front?

 

[Dialcaliper]

The 3000GT hub uses a hub and bearing that are a single unit, so the hubs are pretty much incompatible.

There's no such thing as "almost bolt-on" The evo calipers will still require some sort of interface. Using adapter brackets really isn't a big deal compared to all of the other things you are mentioning. Just a hunk of metal and two extra bolts - it doesn't get much simpler.

 

[BrandonEchols]

I wasn't too clear:
from what I was reading around DSM forums and 3SI, the 3000GT and Evo Brembos have the same mount spacing.
And also the 2nd gen 3KGT caliper/rotor combo is better than the 1g. I was looking for a way to use either the 2g front setup, or the Brembos. Obviously the wheel clearance would still need to be there. But I'm planning on running 3KGT brakes all around, and the rear trailing arms to keep the e-brake. Just looking for a way to do a matching set of all four corners with either the Brembos or the 3000GT setup.

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting Dialcaliper:
The balljoints, and struts are bolt-on. The steering tie rods are bolt-on, but have slightly different geometry.

The hub though, uses a different bearing design with a bolt-in retainer (instead of press-in) and the knuckle is physically beefier. The main problem adapting them is that the axle spline is different and you'd need to frankenstein some front axles (or have them made - driveshaft shop can do it). Because of this, it will end up being more expensive than adapter brackets, but it can be done.



Dialcaliper,

I was under the impression that all transmission side cups were identical on the Mitsubishis (something I read on the 4g61t forum). Is that correct? Assuming this is true are you suggesting that we could take the hub side cup from a 3KGT axle and mate it with the remainder of a GVR4 axle and then use the 3KGT knuckles and hubs?

That sounds like a decent mod to me. The bolt in bearings seem a far better proposition, the knuckle stronger and this would allow you to bolt on 3KGT calipers without the need for adapter brackets.

Is this possible?

Paul.

 

[Dialcaliper]

From looking at some documentation (I haven't compared the 3000GT VR4 axles directly, just the 3000GT knuckles I have in my garage), if the actual axle bar spline is the same on the outer CV (BJ), you could put the 3000GT CV on the Galant axle bar.

It seems that it should be possible. Worst case, even if the splines aren't compatible, you could have custom axle bars made with the appropriate splines on either end for the Galant inner joint and the 3000GT outer joint.

The only other problem is that it looks like the 3000GT hub's steering arms are slightly longer (almost 5.5 to 6" from hub center to tie rod hole as opposed to around 5" on the Galant") and are mounted slightly higher up, meaning A) a slower steering ratio and B) slight bump-steer issues due to not-quite right steering geometry.