3 Bolt LSD Rear axles, 4WS, ABS questions

I removed my old rear end out of the galant and put a 90 DSM 3 bolt LSD rear end in. I sold the axles to the 3 bolt LSD rear back awhile ago when I was parting out the car. My friend had pulled them out and said he thought they looked different then the non LSD 3 bolt axles (says that he remebered one of the axle shafts being longer). Anyway know the answer to this?

Also I am in the process of removing the 4WS and ABS stuff. For the 4ws removal do you just plug or loop the two lines that go into the passenger side of the front rack from the rear setup? And for the ABS removal do you just use the hardlines and prop valve from a 1G T/E/L?

 

i have seen 2 way of removing the 4ws, one is to put ball bearing in the lines that come off the rack and screw the cap over the ball.my car has 14mm by 1.5 blot in the Tee on the rack.

 

[belize1334]

LSD axles are different than non-LSD axles. This is true on both 3-bolt and 4-bolt setups.

For the steering rack, get 2 oil drain-pan bolts and make sure that they have the copper washers on them. The Nylon washers are crap and WILL leak so if you must get the kind w/ nylon then buy some copper washers separately. I used the nylon washers the first time around and it leaked like a sieve. I replaced them with copper and it's been golden ever since.

On the steering rack there are 2 fittings that that route fluid to the back. One is on the passenger side just above the sway-bar bushing. Undo the line and plug with your oil pan bolt. The other is on the driver's side and hard to get to. The key is that the line coming off of the driver's side runs parallel to the rack for about a foot and then there's a junction in it roughly in the middle of the car. You can plug this junction with your other drain-pan bolt and it's just as plugged as if you'd done it right on the rack but a HELL OF A LOT easier to get to. I can't remember what all had to be removed to get access. Certainly the sway-bar bushings will have to be loosened from the sub-frame. You may also have to drop the down-pipe. I think I had my x-fer case off when I did it but if memory serves this isn't necessary.

 

the bolt on the tee is the best way, the ball bearing is just alot faster and less work my guess also the guy might have wanted to hook the 4ws lines back up, not really sure. also when you are there look at the hard lines on your rack, i had to replace mine, might be a good time to do yours. they are a pain in the ass, you can get them from JNZ.

 

Alright thanks for the info i will be taking a look at it when I get home.

Where do you by rear axles from? Is it a dealer only item. Part stores in my area are giving me a blind stare when I ask for them?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[belize1334]

Rear axles are a bitt tough to come by. Napaonline and Rockauto only seem to deal in front axles which have a much higher failure rate (under normal use).

You can try the dealer but if they're not NLA they're gonna be spendy. You could also try Raxles but they don't have an online directory so you'll just need to call them up and see what they can do.