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1992 gvr4 #848/1000
- Thread starter rbparker
- Start date
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4
Port of entry: Tacoma Washington
Life of car: Minnesota, Nebraska, Washington, Colorado.
Putting together a dairy of sorts for the work that I have put into this car.
After driving the car for a few thousand miles I came up with the time and direction to begin modifying. I want a clean easy to work on car that goes fast (relative to my experiences) in a straight line on a bit of a budget.
The chassis was a bit of a rusty mess that needed disassembled, cleaned and prepped for a rattle can restoration.
After driving the car for a few thousand miles I came up with the time and direction to begin modifying. I want a clean easy to work on car that goes fast (relative to my experiences) in a straight line on a bit of a budget.
The chassis was a bit of a rusty mess that needed disassembled, cleaned and prepped for a rattle can restoration.
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Got the engine out and washed the engine bay. I remember it cleaning up very well.
The worse of the rust. Every bolt under the car was rusty and the bottom of the chassis was full of road grime and surface rust.
A stud holding a carrier bearing broke disassembling the driveshaft. I removed the spot welds as to weld in new studs.
The worse of the rust. Every bolt under the car was rusty and the bottom of the chassis was full of road grime and surface rust.
A stud holding a carrier bearing broke disassembling the driveshaft. I removed the spot welds as to weld in new studs.
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New studs welded into the carrier bearing housing. This and the driveshaft saw the first of the rattle can.
I had plastic wrapped the car prior to paint.
Hours of sanding and wire wheeling later I begun painting. The underside rust was sanded and treated with a rust inhibitor before painted. The paint was sanded and or scuffed with a wire wheel then run over with scotch brite and a wax and degrease before spraying a primer. A undercoating (maybe rubberized) was sprayed where uni-body seams meet, from the fake frame rails out towards the side skirts and above the rear differential to the back bumper.
I had plastic wrapped the car prior to paint.
Hours of sanding and wire wheeling later I begun painting. The underside rust was sanded and treated with a rust inhibitor before painted. The paint was sanded and or scuffed with a wire wheel then run over with scotch brite and a wax and degrease before spraying a primer. A undercoating (maybe rubberized) was sprayed where uni-body seams meet, from the fake frame rails out towards the side skirts and above the rear differential to the back bumper.
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I took out the interior carpet and addressed a leaky rear corner glass panel. My home carpet shampooer has a hand held attachment and I used to freshen the carpets up.
I replaced the bushings inside the shifter housing while the interior was apart.
This car may need to slow down with confidence on the streets of Mexico, so I began building the brake system.
I took out the ABS system and replaced the proportion valve with a non ABS unit.
The brake booster and master cylinder where replaced to accommodate for larger calipers. (3g eclipse units)
Running new brake lines for the rear axle. The old lines where corroded beyond use.
I replaced the bushings inside the shifter housing while the interior was apart.
This car may need to slow down with confidence on the streets of Mexico, so I began building the brake system.
I took out the ABS system and replaced the proportion valve with a non ABS unit.
The brake booster and master cylinder where replaced to accommodate for larger calipers. (3g eclipse units)
Running new brake lines for the rear axle. The old lines where corroded beyond use.
Here are the wheel wells painted with the brake lines ran. I painted the center gray because I had clues that what it was from the factory but looking back on it now, I wish I would have kept it all one color. Unfortunately replacement fuel filler hose is unavailable and the one on the car was not up to par for service. I used an aluminum coupler and two gates hoses. Maybe a 45 and 90 put together. I guess I should mention I had taken the fuel tank out, cleaned the inside and prepped/painted the outside.
I made a complete suspension/drive train purchase from RTM.
The rear sub frame got the attention it deserved. I wish I would have taken more photos of the state of the car before I took it apart, I see people part out cars in WAY better condition (always breaks my heart).
Anyway u-joints were terrible but the carrier bearings were still smooth and quiet. I was shorted a component to carrier bearing bushing, I believe this photo was for the vendor.
I purchased 4 1g AWD spindles (part of the RTM purchase included rebuilding the wheel bearings and such).
I made a complete suspension/drive train purchase from RTM.
The rear sub frame got the attention it deserved. I wish I would have taken more photos of the state of the car before I took it apart, I see people part out cars in WAY better condition (always breaks my heart).
Anyway u-joints were terrible but the carrier bearings were still smooth and quiet. I was shorted a component to carrier bearing bushing, I believe this photo was for the vendor.
I purchased 4 1g AWD spindles (part of the RTM purchase included rebuilding the wheel bearings and such).
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nazagalant1993
Well-known member
It's a very solid build. I'm on the same path with my GVR4 but in Argentina the process is very slow due to the shortage of parts. The same thing happened to me with the fuel hose. I hope you continue to publish the assembly process of your GVR4. It's good to find people with the same obsession hahaha
Thanks for the compliment. Hopefully you are having fun with your rebuilding process!
I am not done with the car as of today but am much further along than the current posting and do plan to document the car here. I am posting little by little when I have free time so that I can re-call what I did in some detail. I have been texting a good friend a much more detailed "diary" and thought I should try and scrap something together for the car's history.
Cheers!
