I got a set of front/rear cross drilled slotted with ceramic pads Ebay specials to put on my 91 GVR4.

I am having lots of trouble with the rears. I have done rear pads on this car before but don't remember things being so difficult.

I removed the only rear slider bolt I could find (the other is just a piece of rubber that doesn't seem to be hiding another bolt).
I also removed the other 2 large bolts holding the caliper assembly.

I have the brake cable in the down position.

I can't quite get it where I can get the pads far in and out enough to go around the rotor without falling out.

I used a set of needle nose to turn the piston back in and it isn't interfering.

Some have said to remove the parking brake but the bolt is blocked by the cable itself and there is no leverage to turn that bolt with it removed.

I don't remember needing to pull the parking brake to swap pads either.

The problem stems from inability to separate the pads far enough to get around that rotor. Wondering if the pads are too thick? It's like the tracks in the caliper aren't long enough.

Also, as far as the piston goes. I have turned it clockwise forever and it never stops turning. Is it supposed to ever stop?

Thank you!

New rotors identical thickness?

I have always loosened the brake cable with the adjuster (under the console insert) to make it easy to pull the cable back far enough to disengage it from the caliper. I find that easier than trying to remove that bolt.

I don't think the piston should turn forever, but if you have it in until it is basically flush with the caliper, that is enough.

You should leave the bracket installed after replacing the rotor, and just pivot the caliper body up. Then you install the pads in the bracket and lower the body over them. Easier than trying to hold it all together.

Thanks for the quick help.

Trying to visualize this. It is helpful. I have been turning for maybe 3 total minutes and that piston is nowhere near flush with the caliper. Sure, without the proper tool there is alot of slipping, but it does have me wondering.

The piston in that caliper has to be set to base position.

To achieve this with most twist/push rear calipers that use a cable pull to actuate the clamping of the pads to the rotor for park brake function, you need to twist and push on the center piston!

If you just spin the piston, most will not retract. What you are doing, is likely just twisting the piston. If not, apologies.

Your calipers are the same as the Colt turbo, so they should have a nearly identical setup with the parking brake cable coming in from different locations to my setup.

If you remove the one accessible slider bolt, you then take the caliper and twist it up and then out to the side, because the other slider is hidden in the bore.

Removing whatever holds the park brake cable just before it enters the calipers assembly, is what would hold the caliper from being held up/twisted. It does make things infinitely easier when you can achieve that level of access.

If you cannot for whatever reason, do as above, then use a tool like this ( Click me ).

The reason for multiple adapters is because of the spacing of the two holes or single holes in the piston cups surface. This allows the tool to twist the cup via a 3/8" extension down the center, and the large threads and flat bar, apply a 1/8 or less turn for pressure for each twist of the piston cup. Lots of cars are like this, but two to three adapters are mainly what are needed. Harbor Freight and such will have kits on the shelf, as would other stores.

When installing new pads, the piston has to be confirmed to fully move/twist back into the hole position or as you are finding, the pads won't fit over the rotors due to angles as much as the overall gap is shy.
Along the way, if one side is substantially harder to retract using identical and equal short twists of the 3/8" extension and small rotations of the flat bar handle, then you have a scenario where a seal and or corrosion have taken down the caliper (assuming hydraulics back to the ABS module or prop valve are clean and clear).

Thanks for the help!

Things are going well except for the fact that I noticed the slider pin is stuck. Unfortunately it's the one without the head. Any idea how to get the caliper to move so that I can get it out?

I have been beating on the caliper area near it and the surface to no avail. I have been using Kroil and Liquid Wrench as a lubricant.

I have a torch, but I have been a bit wimpy around the torch recently as I almost caused a fire with it due to flammable liquids like liquid wrench not too long ago.

Also, does anyone know if 1gb rear brakes are the same as a GVR4s? I have a donor I could use but want to be sure before I go that route.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Rear calipers are the exact same.

Thanks....hung on my donor car too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Torch that slider pins via the caliper arm that covers it. Use MAPP gas or an actual oxy/acetylene kit if you can get one around.
The idea is to get as much heat on the spot as possible, all the while trying to move the caliper to the point where it will pivot and can be worked off, then let it cool naturally at the point where the torch was hitting but try and keep the piston and the bore cool with spray water. If you dunk the whole unit in a barrel of water, you will do things to the metal that you don't want to do.
From there, you just need another slider pin or re-use the one you have after hitting it with a buffing wheel/wire wheel on a stand, but be sure to lube it with slider lube, and get a new one likkety split. Also, clean out the bore that it was stuck in! This may require a round barrel file
Rockauto has those pins all day long, maybe even a local NAPA or something could order them in, if it was quicker.

Just went through this on my car, except the bolt without the head was bent slightly. I had to use a large deadblow but it did end up coming off. If you can heat the caliper enough, you should be able to break the rust/corrosion that has it seized. As mentioned already, the boots kits, pins, and bushings are available on RockAuto.

Where are you located in NC?

Thanks for the tips. I just did this on another vehicle with MAP gas. It really worked. I appreciate the help! I'll check Rock Auto too.