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Best source for remanufactured heads?


Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237333 posted 05/20/17 01:46 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would love to swap out my head this summer. Anyone have preferences or experiences with various companies?

Many thanks,
Vince



Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000

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galant344
Member +
344/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237334 posted 05/20/17 08:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
if you are interested I have a fresh rebuilt head with a light port, 1mm over valves, kiggley springs. head is fresh and un used since refresh. I will not be using it.



2017 ferd mustang gt
2014 ford focus ST...... sold
1991 Galant VR-4 344/2000

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FlyingEagle
Doesn't Match Anything


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237335 posted 05/20/17 09:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would put forward that any head is suspect (no offense meant to any posts before this), until it is in the hands of someone that can determine its flatness, remaining margin of material and the quality of the parts installed and whether or not it is in specification for tolerance or if you want something "tighter"; like with regards to stem inserts and such. A company could have twenty rebuilt heads on the shelf and they will all spec out differently, every time.

If someone has a worked over head, it would be a suggestion that the buyer/seller split the cost of an inspection by a reputable shop, and go from there.

We always have to trust what a shop says or what someone else says, so sometimes it is nice to have a backup just to make sure everyone will be happy.

This is not to say the parts offered above are not worthy, not in any way what I mean, just presenting the basic idea behind - need parts - have parts will ship - what should I expect.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

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FlyingEagle
Doesn't Match Anything


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237336 posted 05/20/17 09:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
OP, do you have stock low compression pistons or do you anticipate any clearance issues with larger valves being installed?



C53A 1 of the ~1500

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galant344
Member +
344/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237338 posted 05/20/17 09:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I should add, since there was a good point posted above by flyingeagle, I had the head done at one shop and I didn't trust their valve work so I had the head checked by a more reputable shop that is known for 4g63 work. they did find a few leaky valves an they were fixed. I didn't want to sell it with leaky valves as the original shop was starting to be known for poor valve work. I wasted $350 for that but I didn't want to sell a part that was fresh and not working properly. plans changed and I got my hands on a different head that is now in my car. that is the only reason I never wound up using the head.
it seems hard to find good head work. that was the second head I have had with leaky valves. the first one was in a car I acquired with a fresh stock build. that head was done at a regular machine shop and they just happened to do shit valve work.
very good point about getting it checked out though.



2017 ferd mustang gt
2014 ford focus ST...... sold
1991 Galant VR-4 344/2000

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pot
It's a twee shaker----choot him choot him
182/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237341 posted 05/20/17 11:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have yet to go this route myself but my preference is a 2g Head built by Curt Brown at: curtbrownracing.com -This route will require a little bit of modification but not too much.

As FlyingEagle mentioned, 20 Heads will each all have 20 different specs/measurements. I'd advise you to contact Curt Brown with your desired use or goals for your car. You certainly get what you pay for when using his services.



182/1000

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Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237343 posted 05/20/17 12:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the several replies. I appreciate you all taking time to part some knowledge in my direction

1212 is totally stock, with the exception of a K&N.
With her high mileage(140k), I don't really plan on doing much but maybe cleaning up the intake and exhaust side to breath better.

I guess I hoped to find a reman that can be shipped, and I return a core, so the swap would simply be a weekend(ish) task. Might commit to pulling it for a local shop, but hate the downtime. Probably best but.....

How much room is there to play with when you mill the deck?


Thanks again, More thoughts?
V

I had entertained taking her to Vancouver WA, and get the whole motor done, but then it becomes a question of actually thinking about what I'm doing, and why. In truth, I'd like her to stay solid as a daily driver, but maybe up her output by maybe 10-15%. (If I needed 500+ HP and 155mph, I have a garage queen for those thrills.)



Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000

Posts: 31 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (2603:3023:202:ef) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle
Doesn't Match Anything


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237360 posted 05/21/17 08:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
To your question of milling the head, there was a thread here concerning that.

Essentially there are "holes" that are close to the sides of the sealing surfaces of the head. Depending upon how much "margin" based upon depth in those holes that is remaining, that is the area where you measure remaining meat at multiple spots.

You can only go so far, before the manufacturer considers the head to have too little clearance for factory parts, and barring special thicker gaskets, there would be no coming back from.

A certain amount of warping could possibly put you outside the margin as well, but for a car running properly, I'd say the odds of it being so far off to be non-repairable or the core unusable are very unlikely.

Just be sure to remove the head bolts in a reverse-to-installation fashion working outside in, which is opposite to inside out for installation, and turn each bolt a quarter turn in passes.

This way you can help the core to be more likely to stay in circulation. I speculate on that last part, but it stands to reason that the less you stress a part coming out, the better it may stay.

Also, consider keeping the head that comes off. You never know if you might need it and it costs minimal money to have it disassembled and checked. Heck you can have it rebuilt by a reputable shop and keep it around.

I like the idea of a built head as mentioned by previous posting, but it all depends upon your goals.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

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diambo4life
Member
476/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237384 posted 05/22/17 07:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I have a Pepboys reman head in mine. Worked there at the time and got a discount. I tossed in my valvetrain goodies and had someone o-ring it for me. Nothing special. It works.



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