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Rear Subframe Question


Nebraska
Junior Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236120 posted 03/27/17 02:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm in the process of cleaning up my rear subframe and have it out of the car. I'm curious as to what bushing I have to replace so that when 4ws is removed the trailing arms have no chance of moving as some say the rear end can feel "loose" without the tie rods connected.



1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."

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iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236122 posted 03/27/17 02:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
AT the front end of the trailing are there is the bushing that bolts it to the crossmember. Where that attaches into the trailing arm is where the passive toe movement occurs.



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Nebraska
Junior Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236126 posted 03/27/17 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay thank you! So are the gvr4 and dsm bushings the same? Or is there a way to Eliminate the passive rear toe? Standing in front of these subframes the 4ws junk seems to be the only difference. Can anyone verify this?



1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."

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iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
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828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236140 posted 03/28/17 07:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes, the 4WS is the only difference.



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gtluke
Fegbasket


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236143 posted 03/28/17 07:49 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Nebraska:

Okay thank you! So are the gvr4 and dsm bushings the same? Or is there a way to Eliminate the passive rear toe? Standing in front of these subframes the 4ws junk seems to be the only difference. Can anyone verify this?




exactly the same.
I removed the rubber on mine and welded in washers so it's completely stiff.
However, this is a slight compromise on how the suspension could work, and there is or was someone selling metal bushings/joints so it allows the trailing arm to make the slight movements that it needs to during it's travel.
For 99% of us, just welding in a washer/plate is fine.



86gt pte67gtq
galant vr4 1464 12.83 @ 106
92 suzuki bandit400, 4" shorter than stock


Edited by gtluke (03/28/17 07:50 AM)

Posts: 4168 | From: dirty jersey | Member Since: 09/16/01 | IP: (107.182.231.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

moduleunknown
Schooner
777/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236144 posted 03/28/17 08:44 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here is what I used to eliminate that bushing in my car.



'91 GVR4 777/2000

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Nebraska
Junior Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236149 posted 03/28/17 10:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the input everybody, it is much appreciated!



1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."

Posts: 32 | From: Lincoln, NE | Member Since: 04/09/15 | IP: (76.84.215.80) | Report this post to a Moderator

Nebraska
Junior Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236178 posted 03/29/17 12:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Have a bitch of a time releasing the upper control arm at the ball joint and the bushing side. The camber adjustment bolt turns but won't come out even with a dead blow. DOES ANYONE HAVE A TRICK UP THEIR SLEEVE?



1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."

Posts: 32 | From: Lincoln, NE | Member Since: 04/09/15 | IP: (76.84.215.80) | Report this post to a Moderator

gtluke
Fegbasket


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236207 posted 03/30/17 01:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I had to cut mine out and buy new bolts. They are frozen to the sleeve inside the bushing.



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galant vr4 1464 12.83 @ 106
92 suzuki bandit400, 4" shorter than stock

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