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Fuel Pump Question

Galant_martin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
51
Location
Austria
Hello,

i have an Galant with the 1.8L carb engine that i want to swap out with an 4G63t from my rust-killed car.
So i need to change the breaks (rear only drum), cable clutch to hydraulic, wiring loom.. and i need an elctric fuel system.

Carb engine use a fuel tube with clips for connecting the fuel tube to the rubber hoses, mpi use the screwable connections.

So my question, change the gas tank and fuel line or is there any electic pump solution which can be mount in the engine bay who is able to suck the fuel from the rear to the front and has enough power to feed my system?

Thanks
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
oohhh boy... this brings back lots of memories.

I used to have an '89 NZDM Galant GLX which is the equivalent of your car, or Japanese E32A.

To be honest, it is a lot of work and often not worth the hassle. I actually just ended up selling the car as it was despite the immense emotional attachment to it, and went and bought an already EFI model. I even bought an E33A JDM VZ-S parts car with the high comp 10.5:1 N/A 4G63 to keep costs down, but way too much work involved for not enough gains.

At the very least, you will need to do:

- Swap whole drum brake rear beam for disc brake beam
- Switch brake proportioning valve (and probably master cylinder too)
- Swap out ALL the fuel lines, this requires the front subframe to be lowered
- Swap out fuel tank
- Swap out multiple wiring looms - the carb car will not have wiring to the pump in the tank for instance. The engine loom is incorporated into the body loom so it becomes messy when transplanting into a non EFI car. Mine did not have A/C, electric windows or even electric mirrors, and the donor car was an auto so I deemed it was too much to swap in the donor car loom complete.
- Swap to hydraulic clutch master setup, this involves cutting firewall and replacing the pedal box from a car with hydraulic clutch to begin with
- Fabricate mounts in the engine bay for the EFI air can to fit to, if you want to keep it OEM looking. The carb car does not have this.


If you have a complete parts car, unlimited time on your hands, a big budget and LOTS of emotional attachment to this car then by all means go ahead with the swap. Otherwise, just sell the car and go buy another one, even if it's the 2.0 SOHC - at least it will already be EFI with disc brakes. Preferably find a GTi-16 or Dynamic 4.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Martin, Phil's advice is thorough and sound.

If you do decide to go ahead with the project, I would suggest the pump be put towards the rear of the car. Most are better at pushing fuel than pulling it.
 

Galant_martin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
51
Location
Austria
Okay. I have a complete ECI car here. GTi 16V with many many rust. (common problem here)

And the carb is, unknow why, with not rust.

1.) Swap whole drum brake rear beam for disc brake beam

I have an complete rear axle, ebreak cables and want to buy SS break lines too. Front breaks are changed to dual piston

2.)Switch brake proportioning valve (and probably master cylinder too)

Why, i want to stay with no ABS?

3.) Swap out ALL the fuel lines, this requires the front subframe to be lowered

Yes that is the part i want to put by, all the lines are in the donor too.

4.) Swap out fuel tank

It's in the donor car, shouldn't be a problem to change the tank

5.) Swap out multiple wiring looms - the carb car will not have wiring to the pump in the tank for instance. The engine loom is incorporated into the body loom so it becomes messy when transplanting into a non EFI car. Mine did not have A/C, electric windows or even electric mirrors, and the donor car was an auto so I deemed it was too much to swap in the donor car loom complete.

Yes i know that i need to change some things like adding the fuel pump wires... other things i didnt looked so far.

6.) Swap to hydraulic clutch master setup, this involves cutting firewall and replacing the pedal box from a car with hydraulic clutch to begin with
Yes, i have all the parts in the GTi.

7.) Fabricate mounts in the engine bay for the EFI air can to fit to, if you want to keep it OEM looking. The carb car does not have this.
No i use SD with another filter

Quote:
If you do decide to go ahead with the project, I would suggest the pump be put towards the rear of the car. Most are better at pushing fuel than pulling it.



Yes but if i put the pump in the rear i still need an fuel line for pressure, so i just can use the oem gastank.

And i dont think that the fuel hoses will work with just the metal clips under pressure and going to leak..

Thanks for your help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

AllanL

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
294
Location
NV
Quoting fuel:

- Swap to hydraulic clutch master setup, this involves cutting firewall and replacing the pedal box from a car with hydraulic clutch to begin with



he will just need to swap the pedal ass'y from the GTi, and drill the two holes for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder firewall mounting.

of course, there will the holes in the firewall for where the clutch cable used to pass through.
 

Galant_martin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
51
Location
Austria
Yes i need to close the hole from the clutchcable.. i hope i find an rubberplug in my Part collection that fits /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Should i do the fuel line new with polyamide tube? I think that would be easier.
 
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