GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » Technical Discussions » Fractured Lower Engine Block Tab - Can It Be Welded?
Previous thread Next thread

Fractured Lower Engine Block Tab - Can It Be Welded?


abikepeddler
Newbie
1607/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237652 posted 05/31/17 06:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have been having shifting issues with our 91' GVR4.. after some investigating I discover we have a cracked bell housing. I tore the transmission out of the car and discovered not only is the bell housing cracked but the lower tab on the engine block that transmission bolts to has sheared off! (This is the one bolt on the engine to transmission interface that bolts in from the engine side) Motor has 45k on a fresh rebuild and outside of a 16g turbo and intake is pretty much stock. Do you think that this very important broken tab can be welded on successfully? It would suck to have to toss this motor simply because of the unfortunate breakage of this tab and I do not want to scrap a nice, rust free, original paint VR-4 over something like this.

Note: I did a search on the forum for any reference to others who may have faced this same issue to no avail..

Here are some pictures...









Posts: 14 | From: San Diego, CA | Member Since: 08/11/16 | IP: (76.176.121.25) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237659 posted 05/31/17 08:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The only real way to fix it is to have the ear welded back on, or replace the block. The dowels are critical to ensuring the transmission is properly aligned with the engine block. The shifting issues you've been experiencing are a perfect example of how important that alignment is.

A temp fix like the ones linked below could be implemented, but not recommended for a long term solution IMO.

click
click


I saw a pretty nice fix on the FB groups IIRC, but can't seem to locate it...



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(207.255.187.121) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237668 posted 06/01/17 07:36 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I took this same cruise. As it is cast iron, it't tough to do properly. I had mine welded by a welder I worked with, certified for Nuclear plant welding. It lasted about 2-3 years before it broke on me again in I-275 traffic in Detroit. I am not sure if there is anything else I could have or should have done differently to ensure a longer life. I know it was put together properly with all the dowels, etc.

I also didn't recognize at first that I was having shifting issues because of this and it did get worse before it stranded me. It was winter and I thought I was having clutch hydraulic system problems as it got more difficult to engage gears.

When I had a chance I replaced the block. Maybe it could have been fixed again, but didn't need the headache.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-Daily driver status
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10350 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

Gtpdz
Member
594/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237681 posted 06/01/17 06:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Seems like a common issue around this bolt mounts? I had the bolt snapped in the bell housing when some other trans bolt shake loose, eventually lead to shift problem. It started as noise that I thought was throwout bearing. But after fix this and bolt the transmission down tight again, all the clutch issue went away. I guess that's why Mitsubishi changed the trans bolt pattern for the 7 bolts?

Posts: 139 | From: Gig Harbor, WA | Member Since: 03/12/15 | IP: (2607:fb90:fd0:5a) | Report this post to a Moderator

Nebraska
Junior Member
1099/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237682 posted 06/01/17 08:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Cast is very difficult to weld correctly for durability, and a few may turn down the job offer but speaking from experience I can tell you it can be done and you can trust it when done right. I had a guy come to my house and do it with the block in the car. He used some methods I haven't seen before, like welding and putting a bunch of sand around the affected area...

Mine started when I'd push in the clutch and hear a clicking sound. Eventually I couldn't switch gears. What a mind boggler that was...
Good luck! You're not out of luck yet.

Oh and the flywheel chewed up my t case pretty good!



1099/2000 Summit white
"Do it once, Do it right."


Edited by Nebraska (06/01/17 08:31 PM)

Posts: 49 | From: Lincoln, NE | Member Since: 04/09/15 | IP: (152.51.56.152) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237695 posted 06/02/17 06:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Cast really needs preheating to weld properly. The sand was probably to slow heat transfer from the area.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-Daily driver status
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10350 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

abikepeddler
Newbie
1607/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1237763 posted 06/05/17 04:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Thank you to everyone for the input. I appreciate the tips as to how to do this properly and will research Cast Iron Welding further before attempting a fix. I do quite a bit of welding and just bought a new Millermatic 215 kickass welder which should be able to handle the job. I think the trick to doing this properly may also include some additional gusseting to the welded area, something Mitsubishi probably should have already included in the orig block casting. That tab is not exactly overbuilt IMO. I am thinking that it will be easiest to weld by removing the clutch and flywheel and gain maximum access to the area. I also need to vent the crankcase because there is the risk of ignition of flammable crankcase gas which has been known to blow out oil pans. Still this will be a first for me welding a cast-iron block so wish me luck. I will try to update this post with some pictures... No making fun of my welds! Ha ha..

Posts: 14 | From: San Diego, CA | Member Since: 08/11/16 | IP: (2600:1012:b146:a) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 27 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 277

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.412 seconds in which 0.362 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.



Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page