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New Member/GVR4 Owner - 1991 #996/2000 (Any help appreciated)

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Hello GVR4.org! My name is Robby, out of Gaithersburg, Maryland.

Purchased 1991 GVR4 #996/2000 to use as daily and continue my AE86 drift build. plans changed, sold the Hachi and now devoting all resources to the gvr4. Here's the History and some pictures, i will also go over what i want to do, any help/input is greatly appreciated. this is my first DSM

Add said built engine stock turbo on 1 bar boost HKS chip and ran great for $4k. went to go look at the car, cyl head looked cleeaan, no leaks but was running rich so took her for a drive and beat on her a little bit and gave it another week before i came back to beat on her again and drive her home the 1.5hr trip. i lost the list of what the kid said the 4g63t was rebuilt with, but the power felt right and the interior was mint and had nrg wheel, short shift w momo knob, pedal rebuild kit, 3" turbo back exhaust. on the way home a grinding developed whenever the clutch engaged like there were pieces of metal stuck between the clutch and flywheel!! had to take the fairy, told the guy i couldn't shut off the car bc some b.s. i made up but i had this feeling i shouldn't shut her off. stop by the evo shop in airpark down the street en route home to get little whatsup whatsup on what they saw and thought...and the car wouldn't start. wasn't the battery, the starter was hung up we concluded and tried rocking her back and forth, ended up just rolling her and jumping her from second gear. so i get the car home and into the air to really check it out and it turns out that there's a piece of metal missing from the block that one of the transmission bolts screws to (pictures below with me pointing to it)! so the kid had fashioned a super long 8 inch pencil thick bolt/fastener to hold the transmission to the front engine mount!...i know, i know. so at that point i begin to take everything apart. get to the spark plugs and cyl 3 plug has no electrode!! then take the turbo off and oil is dripping from the exhaust manifold!! oh no! go under the car and take the transcase off and its torn to shreds, half the cylinder with the spline teach is demolished ahhh!!! lift the engine get the trans off and there are metal rings in the gears that look like were torn off from the transcase so at that point i decided i'm just doing a full engine/trans swap and try to get what money i can from the engine im pulling or maybe use it for spare parts

if i cant find a shop to help me i plan on having an engine imported through jdmsource.com unless anyone has a good reason not to, and doing all the work at home. i have all the time in the world outside of work with no dependents so i'm throwing every penny i have at this. shooting for more dependability than stupid power. want 270sh hp was thinking big 16g

anyone know where to get an AMG wing replica?


 

Here's a couple things for you. Guys around here like it when you use proper capitalization, puncuation, and grammar. You'll get a lot more help from folks if you write in a clear, easy to read manner. We aren't like the other forums, we like to present ourselves in a more sophisticated way.

That being said, I'll move on to the car. A big 16G is a great street turbo, more than capable of providing your goal of 270 HP. At those power levels, you won't really need to put too much into your new engine. A good solid rebuilt with quality stock parts, add some ARP headstuds for good measure, maybe a slightly higher compression ratio (although not necessary), and put your leftover money into the supporting goods. Get a decent intercooler, see about some tuning capability, and replace all of the hoses, belts, fluids, etc.

A bunch of people are upgrading to EVO 8 ECU's, and using the EVO injectors, MAF, and knock sensor. This is nice because the parts are all designed to work together and, in you case, EVO 8's made about 270 HP stock, so the car should drive perfectly with your setup. There are other options though.

Something that you may not be aware of, is that our BOV's NEED to be recirculated into the intake tract if you are still running a Mitsubishi air meter. Running the BOV vented can cause a host of drivability issues.

Oh, and welcome!
 

Jesus_Negros

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
2,344
Location
USA
Welcome, what did the previous owner have to say about your discoveries?
 

Diego

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Here's a link to my old thread.. click .. you can order them from TunersNation.com and I just checked and I could only find the CF version for $320...
 

ronnycordova

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
84
Location
Muncy, PA
Sounds almost as bad as the last one I bought off of ebay. Guy advertised it as needing nothing, no oil leaks, car runs great blah blah blah. Pictures looked good, I get the car the front bumper is destroyed by who knows what, he had the passenger door painted, the oil pan is oozing RTV and oil, the trans is missing the access panel so the fly wheel has been exposed for who knows how long, car doesn't boost and the list goes on. Such is life.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
^^ i had the same exact issue with my white one until i hit a tree. best of luck and welcome to the board. everyone on here is really awesome.
 

91VR41400

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2004
Messages
109
Location
Rockville MD 20852
Ive seen this GVR4 for sale acouple times... never looked at it in person though.. if you need any help, im local in Rockville/Bethesda MD so just PM or email me. Good luck.
 
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