Car runs like poop, log file inside

[GSTwithPSI]

So I have been struggling to get my Galant VR4 to run well since I reinstalled the motor after rebuilding it. GST with PSI's build & restoration of 1813 | Galant VR-4 > General VR4 Discussions | GalantVR-4.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Forum Problems I am currently having:

- Car overheats, even with both cooling fans running. In short, I do not believe this is because of the cooling system, nor the fans. I think this is related to how crappy the engine is running. Cooling Issue (updated). Need help, pics inside. | Galant VR-4 > Technical Discussions | GalantVR-4.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Forum

- Car will not start again after it gets hot. It cranks, but wont event try to fire.

-Car has a high idle, and will not go into closed loop. It runs pretty smooth, but the throttle response is garbage.


I found out today after logging a bit with my DSMlink that my coolant temp sensor is not working at all. I reads a constant 9 degrees Fahrenheit. This would explain one of the reasons why the car won't go into closed loop. Additionally, the timing seems to be way to advanced at idle. I'm just getting into what expected values should be, and what to look for while logging. If I'm missing something blatantly obvious, It's because all this is pretty new to me. I'm sure there are lots of problems glaring at me, I'm just too much of a DSMlink noob to realize it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Could some of you guys with more ECMink experience here take a look at this log and tell me what you see?

***At 105.5 seconds on the log I grounded the timing connector using the link feature. The car subsequently started running like crap, and eventually died. It wouldn't restart afterwards. So, just as a heads up, that's why there is the durastic change in the log at that time.


Car info:
Everything is pretty much stock...
Stock motor
Stock 450cc injectors
2G MAF (I switched this on Link)
Walbro 255 with fuel pressure set @ 37 PSI

Thanks!

ECMlink Log File

 

[turbowop]

Nothing looks "off" in your ECMlink settings, but that log with the incorrect coolant temps and weird timing is suspect. Start with one problem and work your way through them.

First off, fix that coolant temp sensor and then relog the car. Have you confirmed that your fan is rotating the correct direction so that airflows from the front of the car through the radiator?

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I think I have some wires crossed for the coolant temp sensor. The temp gauge works great, but I guess I didn't connect something right when I had to make some repairs to the wiring harness. I traced the loom with my meter back to the ECU, but I guess something is still jacked up. I should get to fix the temp sensor tomorrow.

The fans are definitely good. I'm back to stock fans and new radiator. Even with the A/C and cooling fans both running, they won't bring the car's temp down. I'm thinking that the 40 degrees+ of timing advance at idle is what causing the car to overheat? I still can't get the fan switch to trigger the fans either. I'm having to jump the connector pins manually to get the cooling fan to run. FML.

Does airflow at idle look good? I'm not sure what a good value there should be.

 

[turbowop]

I didn't bother looking at anything after seeing that coolant temp sensor being jacked up. Little things like that need to work properly before you even start looking at airflow numbers, IMO. Is the coolant burped properly? All air removed?

 

[5OF2k]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I think I have some wires crossed for the coolant temp sensor. The temp gauge works great, but I guess I didn't connect something right when I had to make some repairs to the wiring harness. I traced the loom with my meter back to the ECU, but I guess something is still jacked up. I should get to fix the temp sensor tomorrow.

The fans are definitely good. I'm back to stock fans and new radiator. Even with the A/C and cooling fans both running, they won't bring the car's temp down. I'm thinking that the 40 degrees+ of timing advance at idle is what causing the car to overheat? I still can't get the fan switch to trigger the fans either. I'm having to jump the connector pins manually to get the cooling fan to run. FML.

Does airflow at idle look good? I'm not sure what a good value there should be.



It sounds like the coolant tem sensor is the main cause of your car running weird. With the ECM only seeing 9* coolant temp, it's going to constantly run on the cold start maps, and that definitely has a hand in how the car will behave.

As far as your fans not cycling, that could also have to do with your coolant temp sensor. If the ECM isn't seeing the right temperature, it wont tell the fans its time to turn on. Afterall, why would you need the fans to run with the coolant temp only being 9*?

Once you get that replaced, you should see significant improvement in the cars idle/behavior. Then you can go in and set your timing.

Also, FWIW you should have your FPR set from 38-41psi. I know you're not too far off from that, but it may be something to look into. I typically run 38-39 psi with vac disconnected.

Hope that helps! Have a good one!

-Jake

 

[turbowop]

ECMlink has nothing to do with his fans coming on. ECU controlled radiator fans is a 2g thing. On 1g's and GVR4's they are not controlled by it. I wish they were.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting turbowop:
I didn't bother looking at anything after seeing that coolant temp sensor being jacked up. Little things like that need to work properly before you even start looking at airflow numbers, IMO. Is the coolant burped properly? All air removed?



Yeah I don't think there is any way there could be air in the system. I forced pressurized water into the system while the car was running. I squeezed the lower and upper coolant hoses a bunch of times with the cap off, with the car running as well, in an attempt to force out any trapped air. The thermostat is completely removed. I have literally done everything I can think of and the car still overheats. The only way I can get the temp down is to take the radiator cap off, and run cold water into the top of the radiator while the car is running. As you can imagine, water gets everywhere, but the temp comes down a bit. I'll fix the temp sensor tonight and post an update.

 

[DynastyLCD]

i agree with wop, the coolant temp sensor is definetely wired incorrectly. mine will read room temperature usually before i even start it. but the overheating issue you are describing is unreal. you may have a serious restriction, bad water pump, or perhaps a blown headgasket. you shouldn't have to pump cold water into it while it idles to get it from overheating... unless you have everything wired incorrectly and you just think its overheating, when really you arent getting the right signal from the 1 wire coolant temp sending unit to the gauge in the dash.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
The thermostat is completely removed.



This probably isn't helping. Water doesn't have time to cool in the radiator, thus cooling off the engine, if it's constantly circulating.

 

[DynastyLCD]

^^^ remember that this applies to the coolant in the engine in the same fashion. if the thermostat is closed, and the coolant is forced to circulate around the hot engine, it will get hot at a rapid rate. but with the thermostat removed, it never sits in the engine long enough to get heat soaked. (provided the cooling system flows correctly)

although, in this case, MT makes a good point because this is a problem at idle. no airflow = faster heat soak in the radiator.

 

[5OF2k]

Quoting turbowop:
ECMlink has nothing to do with his fans coming on. ECU controlled radiator fans is a 2g thing. On 1g's and GVR4's they are not controlled by it. I wish they were.



Ah yes, right you are. I'm in AEM EMS mode since that's what I have, my mistake!

-Jake

 

[ade]

wop and 5of2 are right. take it one at a time. fix the coolant temp sensor, follow the line's again and see that they go where they should, then report back.

 

[ade]

this might help also.

click